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[hotel21]

I am determined to get my 1998 3ltr MV6 to run a tad cooler.  Its a regular at the 95 mid range mark but can and does roam into the 100 area (without warning light, I may add) when pushed hard or standing in traffic for too long.

I have used the Forte stuff and flushed and backflushed the gubbins to within an inch of its life, fitted a new VX radiator (last year) and still its on the warm side of blooming hot sometimes....  fans cool it down to within limits but I'm still unsure..... :-/

I intend to do waterpump (thanks JamesV6CDX for the tip) and fit new aux belt, cambelt and tensioners and possibly another brand new rad (got one spare) and refill with 50/50 VX coolant and fresh soft Scots water (rather than that hard Engerlish stuff) when I get to the Almost Wales meet.

Question is, can someone supply a part number or a link to a cool running stat to fit at the same time as all the other gubbins is in bits?

ta  

B

[JamesV6CDX]

Brucie, maybe the original stat is faulty / stuck too far closed and causing a restriction?

Did you directly flush and reverse flush the matrix?

Made a big difference on one my my project Elite's.

[TheBoy]

Rather than trying to mask the original problem (that I don't think will help), need to see why its getting that hot.

Are your slow speed fans coming on at 96 ish (may need to turn off a/c to tell)?  High speed fans before 100?

[hotel21]

Rather than trying to mask the original problem (that I don't think will help), need to see why its getting that hot.

Are your slow speed fans coming on at 96 ish (may need to turn off a/c to tell)?  High speed fans before 100?

I think so.  The slow speed one certainly does.  Will recheck later today regarding the high speed one...  

[TheBoy]

Rather than trying to mask the original problem (that I don't think will help), need to see why its getting that hot.

Are your slow speed fans coming on at 96 ish (may need to turn off a/c to tell)?  High speed fans before 100?

I think so.  The slow speed one certainly does.  Will recheck later today regarding the high speed one...  

If high speed not coming on, may be one of the 30A big green fuses in fuse box.

Saying that, my high speed fans very rarely come on, so wondering it you are struggling to cool - may be worth using compressoed air to clean dead flies and dust from rad vanes and a/c condensor fins (be careful with condensor - the vanes, when old, are often not really connected very well and can start to push out)

[Marks DTM Calib]

Points to note.

• The plastic engine under tray actualy aids cooling so make sure its fitted.
• Instrument panel temp gauge is not that accurate.
• Aircon on will result in higher temps as the heat from the condenser will warm the air being used to cool the rad.
• Dead flys in the aircon condenser does not help airflow (obviously)
• Cool running stat will only delay the time taken to reach the higher temp as the electric fans still cut in at the same temperature
• Check fuses for the two front mounted fans in the ECU box.

[TheBoy]

Points to note.

• The plastic engine under tray actualy aids cooling so make sure its fitted.
  
• Instrument panel temp gauge is not that accurate.
• Aircon on will result in higher temps as the heat from the condenser will warm the air being used to cool the rad.
• Dead flys in the aircon condenser does not help airflow (obviously)
• Cool running stat will only delay the time taken to reach the higher temp as the electric fans still cut in at the same temperature
• Check fuses for the two front mounted fans in the ECU box.

Anyone got a spare undertray

[old cruiser]

Heard  this metioned a few times , that Air-con results in higher Temps, i don't find this the case with my 2.2, if anything it keeps the temp' at a steady 85 degrees even in heavy traffic as I found today on that damn M4, so is it only the larger engine sizes that suffer from this then?
cheers Pete

[Richard A]

As you appear to of checked / replaced most things to reduce running temperuter, this maybe of interest. i've owned three Omega V6's, as the engines miles increase ie over 50,000 the temp has always tended to increase, running at 97 to 99 with the outside temp at over 20c, with over 100,000 this is were the temp stayed.
It was suggested I looked at 'Yahoo Catera Owners' site (MV6 based USA model), two things, go to site, first look at Files :- 'Catera Fan Test Connector' by Terry Wong, this will check all the fans are working at the right temp. Second :- going back in posts a member suggests the GM V6 does not have a 'efficient earth circuit' with all the equipment the model has on board ie 'power everything'. The post goes on to suggest extra earth straps, my V6 Elite  has 125,000 miles on the clock, the engine temp now runs at 94 to 97, outside 22c, since I took his advise, 1) new earth battery to current earth point, 2) new earth battery to new body point, 3) new earth - battery direct to engine, 4) new earth from body to engine. Sorry for taking so long but the Catera runs in outside temps of the high 30's in the states.
berst regards.

[hotel21]

OK, spent some time on the car this afternoon and the fuses seem OK.  Don't have a spare to swap around but all contacts are clean the they test out OK with a multimeter.

The low speed certainly works but the high speed failed to come in.  Temp was at a shade over 100 on the guage, without the high temp light, but the fan speed seemed unchanged.  When should I see/hear??

Then noticed that the coolant level warning was lit...........

And there was a run of water under the car............

By a process of elimination, looks like the HBV has thrown its hand in - must be something in the air....    

Can't see anywhere that the water is dropping from, up top, but certainly falling from the o/s and n/s of the bellhousing, nearto the chassis legs so, reckon it must be.  (car sitting on a slight uphill slope in front of garage)   Will order new HBV from GM dealer in the morning (and ensure sealed box with GM logo moulded on valve when uplifted)

Thanks for the info as regards shorting out the fans to test.  Have not managed to find the actual Yahoo site as listed (must be my clumsy fingers) but have found a couple of articles that may be of use.  

Will clean and test the earth connections though the week as well.  

ta

B

[Timbuk]

Points to note.

• The plastic engine under tray actualy aids cooling so make sure its fitted.
  
• Instrument panel temp gauge is not that accurate.
• Aircon on will result in higher temps as the heat from the condenser will warm the air being used to cool the rad.
• Dead flys in the aircon condenser does not help airflow (obviously)
• Cool running stat will only delay the time taken to reach the higher temp as the electric fans still cut in at the same temperature
• Check fuses for the two front mounted fans in the ECU box.

Anyone got a spare undertray

Yup

[Kevin Wood]

Heard  this metioned a few times , that Air-con results in higher Temps, i don't find this the case with my 2.2, if anything it keeps the temp' at a steady 85 degrees even in heavy traffic as I found today on that damn M4, so is it only the larger engine sizes that suffer from this then?
cheers Pete

Air con does result in the auxiliary fans running all the time, so in cool conditions the engine temperature does not rise when in traffic, as it would (causing the fans to kick in and bring it down) ordinarily.

If the cooling system is struggling (in very hot weather or climbing mountains, etc.) turning off the air con will help it keep cool.

Kevin

[TheBoy]

Hotel21 - check both large green fuses in relay box - slow speed fans only use one, high speed use both.

Check the fan switch. With careful shorting with paperclip, should be able to get high speed on, unless the relays are failed.

Are both fans running?

[Martin_1962]

Check the fuses in the triangular box

[hotel21]

Check the fuses in the triangular box

Thanks Martin, but not tonight.  Enjoying this at the moment, so the fuses can wait until morning....