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[telecom joe]

hi guys any ideas to this , when i start my 2.2 the exhaust sounds blowy, but after about 30 secs tends to calm down and sound normal, i ve give it the once over no craks or splits, ?

[Dazzler]

If its from the engine bay area it will more than likely be the exhaust manifold gasket.

[omegadan2.2i]

Hi Joe and Welcome to the forum!

99% sure it is the exhaust manifold gasket - it is a common problem with the 2.2i petrol I'm afraid

If you are unlucky the exhaust manifold could also be cracked - again quite a common problem (New manifolds are around £120 from Vx)

Happened on mine with only low mileage (26k) gasket blown but fortunately manifold was okay (phew!)

Be prepared though when you remove the manifold from the engine block that at LEAST one stud will shear and will have to be drilled out (usually the stud right at the front near No. 1 cylinder) which is awkward to drill out.

Sorry that all this sounds a bit negative but just want you to be aware!!

Dan

[JamesV6CDX]

Hi Joe and Welcome to the forum!

99% sure it is the exhaust manifold gasket - it is a common problem with the 2.2i petrol I'm afraid

If you are unlucky the exhaust manifold could also be cracked - again quite a common problem (New manifolds are around £120 from Vx)

Happened on mine with only low mileage (26k) gasket blown but fortunately manifold was okay (phew!)

Be prepared though when you remove the manifold from the engine block that at LEAST one stud will shear and will have to be drilled out (usually the stud right at the front near No. 1 cylinder) which is awkward to drill out.

Sorry that all this sounds a bit negative but just want you to be aware!!

Dan

You should be OK with later studs, as they use the anti seize compound...

[Olympia5776]

Secondary air injection ?

[TheBoy]

Secondary air injection ?

2.2 doesn't have SAI...

[Sir Gingerlot]

Just to make sure, also check where the front pipe attaches to the manifold. One of the studs broke on mine and it used to leak until everything had warmed up and expanded. Pretty easy to drill our if it is this.

[ricardo1500]

I have just done this job yesterday on my 2.2 petrol ...it was the very front lower stud that had been sheared off prior to me owning the car.  I was able to drill it (1/8th) and remove it with my mates Snap On stud extractors once I had removed the manifold, oil dipstick and thermostat housing.  I used new studs, gasket and nuts but put the studs into the head dry.....what its the "anti seize compound" that JamesV6 refers to??? the new studs were bright silver as aposed to the old ones which were black....i thought this was a plating (possibly zinc?) to stop internal corrosion.

[Taxi_Driver]

I have just done this job yesterday on my 2.2 petrol ...it was the very front lower stud that had been sheared off prior to me owning the car.  I was able to drill it (1/8th) and remove it with my mates Snap On stud extractors once I had removed the manifold, oil dipstick and thermostat housing.  I used new studs, gasket and nuts but put the studs into the head dry.....what its the "anti seize compound" that JamesV6 refers to??? the new studs were bright silver as aposed to the old ones which were black....i thought this was a plating (possibly zinc?) to stop internal corrosion.

Id be interested to hear how you did this in detail as ive got both the top and bottom studs snapped on no1 cylinder......was the stud snapped off inside the cylinder head? (mine are)

[Taxi_Driver]

If its the manifold or gasket leaking i would expect to hear a ticking noise when cold......does it tick?

[ricardo1500]

I have just done this job yesterday on my 2.2 petrol ...it was the very front lower stud that had been sheared off prior to me owning the car.  I was able to drill it (1/8th) and remove it with my mates Snap On stud extractors once I had removed the manifold, oil dipstick and thermostat housing.  I used new studs, gasket and nuts but put the studs into the head dry.....what its the "anti seize compound" that JamesV6 refers to??? the new studs were bright silver as aposed to the old ones which were black....i thought this was a plating (possibly zinc?) to stop internal corrosion.

Id be interested to hear how you did this in detail as ive got both the top and bottom studs snapped on no1 cylinder......was the stud snapped off inside the cylinder head? (mine are)

Sorry for the delay in replying TD.....We use a 1/8 cobalt drill bit in the end...others were just being blunted.  My stud was sheard off about 1.5mm inside the head.  Access to get a drill in is tight so i used a small air driven grinder with a small chuck inserted similar to this one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-4-NEW-PRO-AIR-ANGLE-DIE-GRINDER-AIRCRAFT-TOOLS-F49_W0QQitemZ290163008273QQihZ019QQcategoryZ22664QQcmdZViewItem

I used a new stud to guage how much thread was left in the head  and just kept checking the depth....drill too far = knackered head!!!

There really isnt that much stud in the head so i doubt if a normal easy out would have sufficient to grip on to to work.
The stud extractors we used were a set of these
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SNAP-ON-BLUE-POINT-SCREW-EXTRACTORS-NO-RESERVE_W0QQitemZ170150717599QQihZ007QQcategoryZ30917QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
which again I was lucky enough to borrow.They really are the muts nuts.

The important thing is to get the hole drilled in the middle of the sheard stud....the extractors come with a sleeve that slides over the drill bit and is just the right size to nestle in that hole in your head   that your stud is broken off in.  So in this case I was lucky that my stud had not broken off flush but was slightly sunk in
The other important thing to get right is to keep the hole running at 90 degrees to the head. The extractor is then hammered in (they are a straight rod with straight splines that grip the stud when hammered in) and the  stud is screwed out useing a special nut adaptor that slides over the extractor splines.  
I had soaked the stud with copious amounts of plus gas overnight which may have helped and I was lucky...my stud came out.
Why the studs shear I dont know...none of them were really tight, eight of the remaining nine came out with the nuts when I removed the manifold and as I said the sheared off one was not as tight in as  I thought it would be....I get he feeling that maybe it had just fractured and fallen out possibly due to a warped manifold.  There must be an explanation as its always the front studs that go.

The alternative is to get the head off and do it on the bench which would be easier but a lot more time consuming and expensive and there is always the possibility of something else going wrong during the head removal/replacement.
I did this at the start of a week off work so I would have had time to go down that route if it had all gone wrong.

Hope this helps TD and if you want any more details just ask

[Taxi_Driver]

Thankyou for your reply  

Certainly 'food' for thought and an alternative to taking the head off  

[ricardo1500]

To be honest I wouldn't have taken the head off just to do this unless the leak had got really bad. Mine went away once the engine got warm but thse little things really get underyour skin and start to annoy you after a while!!

[bash]

[size=14]In reply to how to get stud out when snapped inside hole. I have just had the exact same problem when i found the noise coming from around that area . Plus then found manifold cracked plus another two bolts sheared. I managed to extract all the studs except the front one the real  --------- . I tried every thing cobalt drills , snap on drills, even bought a right angled air drill. And before i started MiG welded a jig onto the old manifold to be sure i kept drilling central. After 6 hrs not a dent on the old stud, i was reluctant after spending £200 on parts to put it all together again and still have it blowing. So i made a bracket about 6" long out off 1" X 1/4 " bar this has a hole drilled in it and it is attached to i think its a tapped hole for a engine mount just below the manifold and approx 4" back from the stud hole. One end of the bar is placed onto where the stud should be and when you tighten the nut this puts pressure against the manifold where the stud is missing. ( To be honest this is how lots of classic car manifolds are attached )  i torqued everything down in stages and have had no trouble since. Regarding the anti seize compound on both the nuts and studs, if you get genuine vauxhall ones they are copper coloured and the studs have female torque ends as they are a tight fit screwing them into the head. Hope this is of help cheers bash[/size]