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[mark.adams]

Would the consensus of opinion be to go for lower mileage or price?

I understand the omega is a good workhorse but its a vauxhall after all

Also i quite fancy the 2.6 V6 for the goodies, opinions???

[ians]

These cars do wear their miles well.   You'll find over 100k you get a regular stream of wishbones, trackrod ends etc that need replacing but nothing too expensive.   Most people wouldn't touch a car with over 100k on it so prices are pretty low.

2.5/2.6 is a good engine in the Omega - blend of performance and economy but you need to look for the letters GLS/CD/CDX/Elite/MV6 to determine what toys it has.  Most on hear would go for CDX minimum.

[Golfbuddy]

Have to agree with Ian. I've had my 2.2CD for three and a half years and I couldn't be happier with it. I think I would go for low mileage over price though.

If I knew what I know now I would have held out for a 2.6 CDX. I specifically wanted an Omega but, not having owned a Vauxall before, didn't understand how the equipment levels worked.

Still, I love my car and don't plan to change it in a hurry. Unless an absolute belter comes along.

[Grumpy]

Would the consensus of opinion be to go for lower mileage or price?

Neither.

You always buy a car on it's condition, at a price that is acceptable to you,
or walk away.

Price or mileage is no indicator of condition.

You can go two ways.
1) Find a good condition car within your budget.
2) Find a car with faults, going mega cheap, that you can fix up for
   less money than buying a good condition one. The work will then
   be done to your standards, with, hopefully, no nasty surprises in store.

Happy hunting.  

[Andy B]

Definately buy by the body condition. Mechanics are a piece of cake & ceaper than body work to repair.
AIMHO

[alanfp]

Good advice, but don't believe the mileage/service history unless you examine it THOROUGHLY.

I have been to see 2 cars for sale recently both of which had forged service stamps.  (One had been rubbed out and amended, and the other had 2 fictitious stamps entered).

Remember, people don't generally buy cars like these to do 5-8000 miles a year. They were nearly all company cars when they were new, they nearly all have done 60k miles in their 1st 3 years.  That's not a problem, but if you see a 5 yr old one with 50k miles be very suspicious.

If it's a dealer, the previous owner's details will be on the V5 document.  Give them a ring - I've done this several times and have always found the person to be helpful.

[mark.adams]

I may have to sell my 2.2 CD early next year to avoid some financial implications, i intend to stash the cash and buy a 2.6 fully loaded, late as possible low mileage as possible mig.

[alanfp]

I agree with Andy B. that if a body has been mangled/twisted/shunted that could be disastrous for you, but the mechanics can only be sorted if you have the necessary time, ability, confidence, tools etc.

Good luck, and be careful out there.

[Dave-C]

Mileage! Not really a problem if the srvice schedule has been adhered to...  budget for a cam belt and oil change and a set of plugs for your piece of mind....  I think that the rest is asthetical....

DC

[Turk]

Yep, Body Condition over mechanics.
Rear shock came thru the top mount on my 1st 2.5td so I thought it time to change. I bought another 2.5td.
My 1st 2.5td has 225,000 on the clock and still runs fine, well...until I robbed the A/C condensor to put on my newer 2.5td, but that's just a case of connecting the pipes back up and she's away.

One place to check is the rear wheel arches. If they're not corroded and the paint isn't bubbling then chances are the rest of the body is gonna be sound. Even my facelift model with the "Improved Anti-Corrosion" had issues there, but don't be put of by a bit of corrosion here. A wire brush and some rust treatment followed by a tin of primer and finished with tin of body colour sorted mine out.  
I'd get down and check visually rather than running your hand along the underside of the arch.
Last thing you want is to be picking rusted metal out of yer fingers and a trip to the docs for a tetanus jab.

[Jay w]

i would try and get the lowest mileage car i could for my money, with the highest spec, usually elite......

i bought mine 20 months ago with 93,000 on her, she now has 148,000 and still continues to rack up the mileage.

My next one will be an Elite and as late as poss

[ELITE-3.0-V6]

I bought my 1997 3.0 v6 elite last month for £500.... it is totaly mint if i covered the speedo then u wud say it had done 40,000 it drives totaly faultless and don't miss a beat....... And the best bit...... it's done 147,000 miles and is as good as new..

Just goes to show that with a good service plan and a owner that cares and these cars will last for ever..

And deffo got to be a cdx or elite, i'd go for elite becuase its loaded with goodies to fiddle with....  

[ELITE-3.0-V6]

i would try and get the lowest mileage car i could for my money, with the highest spec, usually elite......

i bought mine 20 months ago with 93,000 on her, she now has 148,000 and still continues to rack up the mileage.

My next one will be an Elite and as late as poss

ha same as sir jay w