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[Tim Smith]

It appears that my brake lines are too corroded to pass an MOT and need replacing. The garage says that it's a four hour job because the fuel tank has to be removed. Is this the case or has anybody got any inside knowledge as to the task facing me?

[ians]

Did they specifiy which brake lines?  

I don't recall them going anywhere near the fuel tank though..

[Marks DTM Calib]

No need to touch the tank to replce these!

[Debs.]

It appears that my brake lines are too corroded to pass an MOT and need replacing. The garage says that it's a four hour job because the fuel tank has to be removed. Is this the case or has anybody got any inside knowledge as to the task facing me?

I`ll be watching this thread with interest; at my Miggy`s previous MOT it had rear brake pipes as an 'advisory'; one year on, they`ll surely need replacing.
I bought a pipe bender and flaring-set for my recent Land Rover resurrection: `hope the pipes will be the same size.

[Tim Smith]

All it said on the failure sheet was that both rear brake pipes were corroded and the front offside was also corroded. (Obviously, I will replace both fronts), I assume that by that they mean the flexible hoses which go to the callipers! If they mean the pipes which go all the way to the master cylinder which run between the tank and the bodywork, I can't see that they could notice them being corroded, The tank's in the way!
Could it be that the union for the flexible rear pipes are behind the tank? (The Haynes Workshop Manual is next to useless in describing this job, it just says disconnect and unclip the pipe, refit and bleed)

[jonathanh]

All it said on the failure sheet was that both rear brake pipes were corroded and the front offside was also corroded. (Obviously, I will replace both fronts), I assume that by that they mean the flexible hoses which go to the callipers! If they mean the pipes which go all the way to the master cylinder which run between the tank and the bodywork, I can't see that they could notice them being corroded, The tank's in the way!
Could it be that the union for the flexible rear pipes are behind the tank? (The Haynes Workshop Manual is next to useless in describing this job, it just says disconnect and unclip the pipe, refit and bleed)

the fuel tank is not in the way! clamber under your car and have a look.  The fuel tank sits behind the rear axle:  the flexi pipes go from in front of the rear rubframe on to it.  There are no brake lines above the fuel tank.  My guess is.  I'd suggest you start by getting the test centre to point at exactly the pipes they mean.  Second step is finding a motor factor who will make up relacements.  Fit em yourself, not too difficult  

[Derek_in_Penzance]

I've just replaced the metal pipes, all six of them, on my '98 Elite estate. It took over day, partly because we didn't have an on-car flaring tool, just the normal bench one, so we went all the way up to the master cylinder. If you have the on-car tool, you can cut the pipes and add new sections using joining unions.

[Tim Smith]

Hi Derek, Did you have to do ANYTHING with the fuel tank? not that I'm too concerned about draining and removing the tank, but it seems that everybody is saying that the tank stays put except for my MOT garage, who quote a four hour job at £75 an hour..........

[dbug]

Brake pipes - u need to remove petrol tank and engine!! - Wot a load of b*llux - leave tank where it is  
Engine - who knows :-/ :-/ :-/

[ians]

They are talking about the rigid copper pipes not the flexi ones.  Most often they corrode near the unions.

Where did removing the engine come from?   Lets strip out all the interior while we are at it..

On my 94 (the only one I have done this on), there are two pieces either side at the rear which connect to a t piece connector at the rear (but well in front of the fuel tank).

My MOT place put chalk on the bits they comment on so you can see what needs doing.

[dbug]

They are talking about the rigid copper pipes not the flexi ones.  Most often they corrode near the unions.

Where did removing the engine come from?   Lets strip out all the interior while we are at it..
On my 94 (the only one I have done this on), there are two pieces either side at the rear which connect to a t piece connector at the rear (but well in front of the fuel tank).

My MOT place put chalk on the bits they comment on so you can see what needs doing.

Exactly - lots of krap being posted here!! :-? :-/ :-/ :-/

[Tim Smith]

Now, Now Children.....

OK, the general consensus is that it's the copper pipework which will need replacing, (probably all of it to satisfy my MOT station) and the Fuel Tank stays nailed onto the car.....Great!
I am very grateful to all of you who have made comments and suggestions. it looks like I'll be investing in a brake pipe flaring tool...mmm? (or not!)
Many Thanks Folks.

[Derek_in_Penzance]

On my 98 3.0 Elite estate with LPG we did not have to remove the fuel tank, and as I said we di all six pipes including the two long ones front to rear.

We did have to remove the scuttle cover etc as our pipes went right up to the master cylinder, but   only because we didn't have an on-car flaring tool and the correct joining unions, only a bench mounted one. Otherwise we'd have cut the pipes under the car and joined new sections in. That's what a garage should be able to do. We are a spare parts and restoration business but sad to say I had not invested in the tool that would have saved us a lot of bother routing pipes up around the back of the engine!

But it won't happen a second time. I will post pics tomorrow to give you an idea of what is involved if you go the whole hog.

[ians]

When I did mine, I removed the section from the car, took it to the spares shop and they made one up for me.  If you only need one or two bits , it would save investing in the kit.