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[platty]

Hello guys,

As above - I think my gearbox is starting to suffer a little bit so I thought I should check out what maintenance I "should" be doing.

Basically I have had the car for 20 months and done about 35k in that time. All the usual TD engine maintenance has been done but I have never looked at the 'box.

This last few thousand miles the gears have felt somewhat more "notchy" plus the clutch has also started to slip and is getting worse.

So with the aid of some photos, my questions are:

What is this inspection cover for (o/s of G'box)?



This is what I could see in it:



Also, what is this one for (n/s of G'box)? Does that look like oil leaking through the main oil seal?



Also I am guessing I should be checking the level/replacing the oil... what are the intervals and do I check it from here?



Would I be correct to assume that this is where I drain from?



And purely out of interest, what is this? (the little nipply thingy)




Apologies for the length questions and the (slightly big) pictures, but any help would be appreciated as I am something of a gearbox novice.

Many thanks

Platty

[TheBoy]

The poor gearchange may be related to the tired clutch.

I'll leave the gearbox Qs to a manual owner...

[Elite Pete]

The 4th and 6th pictures are the bleed nipple for the clutch.

[Elite Pete]

I would try replacing the gearbox oil, the refill plug is in pic 4 and the drain plug in pic 5. A slipping clutch is more than likely because its worn.

[Kevin Wood]

Just to add, you might find the issues are related in that the clutch is contaminated, causing slipping but also dragging a little. However, the inspection plate reveals no oil of consequence on the back of the flywheel so I doubt that's the case.

I'd change the gearbox oil for good measure anyway, as that can often improve shift quality, but it sounds likely that the clutch is on its' way out.

Kevin

[platty]

Thanks for the input TB, EP & KW  

I thought the clutch might have been responsible for the crappy shifts but the box doesn't feel as smooth as it did somehow - sounds as though the fluid could do with a change then!

So do I go for a spin and drain the fluid out hot as you do with the engine oil? What do I refill it with? If anyone knows the spec and a decent supplier it would be appreciated  

Thanks again for your help guys - possibly some clutch questions coming up soon....

[TheBoy]

Opie do a suitable manual oil, sign up to their site as an OOF member for discount

No harm changing the oil, esp considering extra load the box is under since chipping...

[Matchless]

If the clutch is slipping then you really need to remove the box and find out whats wrong, it could simply be worn out but that wouldnt explain the poor shift action. If its contaminated with oil from engine / box / clutch slave then that could explain both symptoms.
If the pressure spring in the clutch cover has cracked or even split that causes both clutch drag and clutch slip....had this fault on a previous car and was wondering what could be wrong when the spring broke completey with a mighty bang.

[JezInBrum]

Was the cover missing for pics 1, 2 & 3. If it was it would allow any road crud access to the bellhousing. Mine had turned to dist & fell out. Thankfully mine is an auto so no damage caused by contamination of the friction plates.

[platty]

The covers were all intact on the box - it was actually very clean and tidy under there. I knew the previous owner and he did nothing with the clutch/'box in the 45k he covered so its defo done a minimum of 80k with no attention  

The more I think about it the crappy changes are probably clutch related as it crunches sometimes - that is quite possibly down to me being a bit lazy with the pedal and not realising how much the biting point has moved.

So plan of action is to change the oil for some fresh and play by ear. If changes no better or still getting worse, drop box off and have a butchers.

I haven't looked at the Haynes (and probably won't bother as its a diesel) but is there anything out of the ordinary to look out for when removing the 'box? I'm guessing its prop off, x-member off, linkage off, undo bell housing and out... correct?

It looks as though a clutch is on the horizon regardless  

[TheBoy]

Probably a clutch bleed may help as well?

[Elite Pete]

Its best to bleed the clutch backwards, force fluid up through the nipple.

[platty]

Its best to bleed the clutch backwards, force fluid up through the nipple.

I have heard this from elsewhere - do you know why this is so?

I'm willing to try that first and see if it works short -term, however spoke to Andyc today and a Luk Clutch kit through Vx is only £170+vat, not as bad as I thought it would be...  

[Elite Pete]

Its best to bleed the clutch backwards, force fluid up through the nipple.

I have heard this from elsewhere - do you know why this is so?

I'm willing to try that first and see if it works short -term, however spoke to Andyc today and a Luk Clutch kit through Vx is only £170+vat, not as bad as I thought it would be...  

I believe, bleeding it the normal way, its easy to get air trapped which can be hard to shift.

[Omegatoy]

gearbox looks fine to me mine has 114k on it and never leaked a drop change is as smooth as you like if you are determined to change oil,what ever you do do not undo the oil drain first!!! undo the filler plug otherwise you can be stuck with an empty box and no way to fill it!!! as i have suffered from the dreaded notchy and dificult change i can tell you its clutch related so just change it , also these are very easy to bleed as well,
Omegatoy