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[thedonz]

Hi, so i got up this morning and set off for work as normal in my  W plate auto 2.0 CDX. 2 mins up the road and the engine just stopped, no judder, no noise, no nothing, just stopped and left the dash lights at ignition.

Anyway, I put it into Park and started it up no probs and continued to work again, everything fine. Went to my car to come home and started ok but now with engine management light on but still drives ok other than its slightly hesitent low down and if you kick down it will only rev to 4500RPM and its like its bouncing off the limiter.

Any ideas before I take her to the car docs

Thanks

P.S. I'm not fully conversent with Omega mechanics to say the least  

[cem_devecioglu]

Hi, so i got up this morning and set off for work as normal in my  W plate auto 2.0 CDX. 2 mins up the road and the engine just stopped, no judder, no noise, no nothing, just stopped and left the dash lights at ignition.

Anyway, I put it into Park and started it up no probs and continued to work again, everything fine. Went to my car to come home and started ok but now with engine management light on but still drives ok other than its slightly hesitent low down and if you kick down it will only rev to 4500RPM and its like its bouncing off the limiter.

Any ideas before I take her to the car docs

Thanks

P.S. I'm not fully conversent with Omega mechanics to say the least  

Sensor problem..probably cam sensor

[achoo81]

Do the paper clip test and see what codes if any come up post them up here  for advice for howto look in maintenence guides, but I think cem may well be right.

[MutantCav]

Cam or crank shaft sensor...probably crankshaft...mostlikely you will get a code 19 to confirm this...

[rickyboy]

Cam or crank shaft sensor...probably crankshaft...mostlikely you will get a code 19 to confirm this...

Cam shaft sensor on the 2 litre.  Paperclip and you'll probably find a 0340 (cam shaft sensor).  Ignore the 0355 (crank sensor) if logged  as it will disappear once the cam sensor is sorted.

[thedonz]

Cheers everyone,

How much am I looking at if its a cam sensor??

[rickyboy]

Don't know the price but I'm sure someone will be along shortly to tell you.  I've never actually had to buy a new camsensor - I find a quick clean gets rid of the code for years.

First thing to do is the paperclip test - look for the paperclip test in the maintenance section of the forum and follow the instructions.  Post the code here and then we'll go from there.  It does sound like the camsensor but best to be sure before tampering with a problem which is not necessarily there.

[thedonz]

Hi all,

Just did the paperclip test and it looks like you guys are right on the money (I wouldn't have expecting anything less, genius's).  

Codes flashed out where 0335 and 0340.  

From what you've said its crank and cam sensors but probably the cam sensor will sort out the crank  :question

Now, any ideas what I should be paying??

Thanks all

[Marks DTM Calib]

No, crank sensor is the reference so should be changed first

[rickyboy]

Don't usually disagree with Mark DTM but on the 2 litre changing the cam sensor will rid both the codes.  Just had both codes flag a month ago with the same symptoms and I only cleaned the cam sensor and both codes gone and car starts on the money every time.

Save yourself some money and try cleaning the camsensor first.  Take off the ecotec strip (spark plug cover), remove the fan belt, the timing belt cover.  Unplug the camsensor which sits at the top of the engine between the cams, undo the bolt holding it in and lift out the top of the engine.  Give the metal part a good clean and it's surrounding area and mating face.  

Put it back together and start the engine.  The engine light will probably still be on, take it a good drive and bring the revs up to about 5000rpm in the first three gears and the light should go out and all will be well again.  Fingers crossed anyway.  

If you get a rev limiter at 4500rpm then it's faulty (or as Mark says change the crank sensor).  
This method has worked every time I've had these codes, it appeared a couple of years back and then a couple of months ago again.

This is an easy job - far easier than changing the crank sensor so definitely a good idea to try this first.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Don't usually disagree with Mark DTM but on the 2 litre changing the cam sensor will rid both the codes.  Just had both codes flag a month ago with the same symptoms and I only cleaned the cam sensor and both codes gone and car starts on the money every time.

Save yourself some money and try cleaning the camsensor first.  Take off the ecotec strip (spark plug cover), remove the fan belt, the timing belt cover.  Unplug the camsensor which sits at the top of the engine between the cams, undo the bolt holding it in and lift out the top of the engine.  Give the metal part a good clean and it's surrounding area and mating face.  

Put it back together and start the engine.  The engine light will probably still be on, take it a good drive and bring the revs up to about 5000rpm in the first three gears and the light should go out and all will be well again.  Fingers crossed anyway.  

If you get a rev limiter at 4500rpm then it's faulty (or as Mark says change the crank sensor).  
This method has worked every time I've had these codes, it appeared a couple of years back and then a couple of months ago again.

This is an easy job - far easier than changing the crank sensor so definitely a good idea to try this first.

Different symptoms......and keep an eye on your codes for a crank sensor failure!.

You need to consider what the crnak sensor and cam sensor do.

The crank sensor gives crank position to support accurate spark timing, engine rpm etc. If it fails, the engine stops....(the exception ebing the later coil per plug setups)

The cam sensor does nothing more than provide a crude indication of which cylinder is on which stroke (not possible to do this on a 4 stroke with crank sensor alone on these earlier management systems) which is used for little more than sequential fuel injection support. If it fails, the spark is not affected (DIS setup on these so waisted spark anyway) but, sequential injection can no longer be supported so the injectors are fired in banks of two and the upper rpm limit is lowered to around 4000rpm.

What you also get more often than not on a crank sensor failure is a poor signal error code from the cam snsor as the ecu is now saying....hang on a minute, that last crank pulse was no where near where the cam one was!

So, crank sensor is still the logical one to do first.......and I suspect the culprit.

[rickyboy]

Don't usually disagree with Mark DTM but on the 2 litre changing the cam sensor will rid both the codes.  Just had both codes flag a month ago with the same symptoms and I only cleaned the cam sensor and both codes gone and car starts on the money every time.

Save yourself some money and try cleaning the camsensor first.  Take off the ecotec strip (spark plug cover), remove the fan belt, the timing belt cover.  Unplug the camsensor which sits at the top of the engine between the cams, undo the bolt holding it in and lift out the top of the engine.  Give the metal part a good clean and it's surrounding area and mating face.  

Put it back together and start the engine.  The engine light will probably still be on, take it a good drive and bring the revs up to about 5000rpm in the first three gears and the light should go out and all will be well again.  Fingers crossed anyway.  

If you get a rev limiter at 4500rpm then it's faulty (or as Mark says change the crank sensor).  
This method has worked every time I've had these codes, it appeared a couple of years back and then a couple of months ago again.

This is an easy job - far easier than changing the crank sensor so definitely a good idea to try this first.

Different symptoms......and keep an eye on your codes for a crank sensor failure!.

You need to consider what the crnak sensor and cam sensor do.

The crank sensor gives crank position to support accurate spark timing, engine rpm etc. If it fails, the engine stops....(the exception ebing the later coil per plug setups)

The cam sensor does nothing more than provide a crude indication of which cylinder is on which stroke (not possible to do this on a 4 stroke with crank sensor alone on these earlier management systems) which is used for little more than sequential fuel injection support. If it fails, the spark is not affected (DIS setup on these so waisted spark anyway) but, sequential injection can no longer be supported so the injectors are fired in banks of two and the upper rpm limit is lowered to around 4000rpm.

What you also get more often than not on a crank sensor failure is a poor signal error code from the cam snsor as the ecu is now saying....hang on a minute, that last crank pulse was no where near where the cam one was!

So, crank sensor is still the logical one to do first.......and I suspect the culprit.

As ever words of wisdom Mark.  Wouldn't like to doubt you but I reckon there is no harm in trying cleaning the camsensor (as it's a 10/15 min job even for a beginner) - I really did clear both codes a couple of months ago with a quick clean.

[MutantCav]

Would agree with Mark tbh...if the car wont start its more than likely crank sensor...it will fail to start more often until it wont start at all...or may just decide to give up with no warning on the motorway at 90mph (i mean 70mph of course) then you have very limited brakes and steering...

Cleaning sensor could well prolong the failure but ultimately would be very wise to carry a spare crank sensor if you go this route and be prepared to a) mess about changing crank sensor if you brake down and b) be prepared at all times for the sudden loss of power if engine dies...

[thedonz]

So i'll go for the crank sensor first then lads, thanks for all your advice, its much appreciated  

Roughly how much should I be charged for replacing it at a garage??

[Auto Addict]

So i'll go for the crank sensor first then lads, thanks for all your advice, its much appreciated  

Roughly how much should I be charged for replacing it at a garage??

Whatever you do, only replace it with a genuine Vx one, do not fit an aftermarket one.