well, first place to start with gear box is the Automatic transmission fluid.Dont drive it until you have confirmed the atf fluid is in good condition not burnt and up to level. Damage may result if not already.
Either top up or service atf depending on the mileage(or kilometers) i serviced mine at 70,000 miles(ill leave you to convert) as is the general opinion on here. The factory treat the box as a sealed unit, so you probably wont get any service info from a dealer over there i guess.
From memory. Need,
2 sump gaskits for large and small sump on box. Or loctite 598 black goo.
6 or 7 litres of dexron 3 atf. Maybe more/less depending, 5.5 for mine iirc.
Clean filter/ or fit new if in poor condition.
Remove all sump bolts except one near a corner, then gradually undo the last bolt with a suitable container ready on the opposite corner to let the fluid poor/spill into.
Clean filter/ or fit new if in poor condition.
Clean magnet in sump.
Check/pray for no pieces of thrust washer, if so then stop and replace as guide in maintenance section(i think) not an easy job.
Re fit sumps/gaskits etc and top up atf through the level hole on large sump to the rear on drivers side, 13 mill bolt iirc.
When atf starts to fall back out of the level hole, start the engine and continue to fill as the box sucks up the atf until once again the oil poors back out of the level hole. At this point the level should be correct if up to temp. You can use that last paragraph to just top up. Make sure the car is level within reason. Personally i like to check the level again after a quick drive, just to be sure.
Bear in mind this is a very messy procedure so suggest getting the car on a lift and you will need some method of pumping the fluid up as you wont be able to poor from above with floor pan/exhaust so close to the level hole. Some run a long pipe down from the engine bay and poor from there if the car is on the floor.Also you wont get all the fluid out, some will be left in the torque converter, cant be helped.
Failing that, only leaves the selector switch/electrics/breaked box of which i have no experience.
The coolent pipe bolt is fixed with a torx head bolt, try the next smallest size torx socket and hammer the tinker on... maybe. Previous owners probably used a normal hex tool which is ok(ish) until some muscle is needed and it slips.
Hope helps.