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[chrisdb]

Hi

The timing belt change interval was changed from 80k to 40k miles and from what I gather this is because the tensioner could go rather than the belt. With that in mind, would it be more sensible (cheaper) to change only the tensioner every 40k miles and do the entire set evry 80k?

At the moment I'm having do do a complete change every year :-/

[jonathanh]

my view is no.  Why:

in terms of a cambelt kit, the belts are cheap and the tensioners are expensive

second, the belt has to come off to do the tensioners

third, after 40k miles the alignment marks on the belt will wear off: not a BIG problem but it is just a bit easier to fit a belt with alignment marks (it gets you roughly right before the timing kit goes on)

If I were you, I'd buy the DVD, timing kit and change it yourself.  A couple of hours each year is nothing for peace of mind

[ngrainqey]

when i tried putting a timing belt with the marks onto a 2.6 to turn the crank with a socket the belt physically wouldnt go round cams 1 and 2 to match the markings (only way to get them to match was to take the tensioner off and then it still wouldnt match trying to get the tensioner to fit as there wasnt enough slack!)

[chrisdb]

my view is no.  Why:

in terms of a cambelt kit, the belts are cheap and the tensioners are expensive

second, the belt has to come off to do the tensioners

third, after 40k miles the alignment marks on the belt will wear off: not a BIG problem but it is just a bit easier to fit a belt with alignment marks (it gets you roughly right before the timing kit goes on)

If I were you, I'd buy the DVD, timing kit and change it yourself.  A couple of hours each year is nothing for peace of mind

I do do it myself. The question was about the cost of parts - why pay £99 if only one part needs changing. The belts don't actually have timing marks anymore. But... if you need all the rollers and tensioners then I agree in that case - cost of the belt's not worth worring about.

[NickA]

when i tried putting a timing belt with the marks onto a 2.6 to turn the crank with a socket the belt physically wouldnt go round cams 1 and 2 to match the markings (only way to get them to match was to take the tensioner off and then it still wouldnt match trying to get the tensioner to fit as there wasnt enough slack!)

This wasn't a Gates kit was it? If you use the white marks it won't line up, you need to use the green lines for the crank and cams 1 & 2 and the white lines for 3 & 4. Took me a while to figure this out.

My belts get changed every 60K so 2.5 years for me but that's my engine and my risk. Currently on the third.

[jjleonard]

when i tried putting a timing belt with the marks onto a 2.6 to turn the crank with a socket the belt physically wouldnt go round cams 1 and 2 to match the markings (only way to get them to match was to take the tensioner off and then it still wouldnt match trying to get the tensioner to fit as there wasnt enough slack!)

This wasn't a Gates kit was it? If you use the white marks it won't line up, you need to use the green lines for the crank and cams 1 & 2 and the white lines for 3 & 4. Took me a while to figure this out.

My belts get changed every 60K so 2.5 years for me but that's my engine and my risk. Currently on the third.

Ditto regarding the markings - I nearly wet my pants when I tried to line up the white markings and they were nowhere near! It took me 10 mins to realise that I should line up the crank and cams 1&2 with the green lines, and 3&4 with the white ones.  

[TheBoy]

Change the kit.  The belt cost is insignificant compared to tensioner and pulley costs.  Also do the waterpump every other cambelt (every cambelt for 4 cylinder).

[TheBoy]

And for the record, GM ones are starting to get the markings on again

[NickA]

And for the record, GM ones are starting to get the markings on again

Just out of curiosity how would you do a cambelt without any marking on the belt?

[JamesV6CDX]

And for the record, GM ones are starting to get the markings on again

Just out of curiosity how would you do a cambelt without any marking on the belt?

Lock crank and cams as normal.

Route belt as normal - just ensure that you leave a tooth of slack between the crank and tensioner - and that the belt is taught everywhere else.

I've never had a problem with a no markings belt...

[Darth Loo-knee]

And for the record, GM ones are starting to get the markings on again

Just out of curiosity how would you do a cambelt without any marking on the belt?

Lock crank and cams as normal.

Route belt as normal - just ensure that you leave a tooth of slack between the crank and tensioner - and that the belt is taught everywhere else.

I've never had a problem with a no markings belt...

Personally find it easier to fit without marks on the belt, you are not trying to get the lines inline with the cut outs  

[TheBoy]

And for the record, GM ones are starting to get the markings on again

Just out of curiosity how would you do a cambelt without any marking on the belt?

The markings are unimportant, though some people, esp if never done before, like that 'confirmation' that its routed right...

[JamesV6CDX]

And for the record, GM ones are starting to get the markings on again

Just out of curiosity how would you do a cambelt without any marking on the belt?

Lock crank and cams as normal.

Route belt as normal - just ensure that you leave a tooth of slack between the crank and tensioner - and that the belt is taught everywhere else.

I've never had a problem with a no markings belt...

Personally find it easier to fit without marks on the belt, you are not trying to get the lines inline with the cut outs  

Agreed Daz

In reality it's something or nothing, Although it it's for a customer, I use the marks - 'cos it looks more professional

[chrisdb]

Cool - sorted then - will get the whole kit   When I did the last change I really struggled to get the belt on for a while, and suddenly it went on really easily. Hopefully will get a new VX belt with the marks on this time and can see if it makes it easier first time.

[ians]

when i tried putting a timing belt with the marks onto a 2.6 to turn the crank with a socket the belt physically wouldnt go round cams 1 and 2 to match the markings (only way to get them to match was to take the tensioner off and then it still wouldnt match trying to get the tensioner to fit as there wasnt enough slack!)

This wasn't a Gates kit was it? If you use the white marks it won't line up, you need to use the green lines for the crank and cams 1 & 2 and the white lines for 3 & 4. Took me a while to figure this out.

My belts get changed every 60K so 2.5 years for me but that's my engine and my risk. Currently on the third.

Ditto regarding the markings - I nearly wet my pants when I tried to line up the white markings and they were nowhere near! It took me 10 mins to realise that I should line up the crank and cams 1&2 with the green lines, and 3&4 with the white ones.  

Strange, I just fitted a Gates kit a week ago and don't remember this.  Different source of belt perhaps?