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[chrisdb]

While setting up the timing after changing a couple of the tensioners I managed to get too much slack at the bottom end. As a result the crankshaft has slipped round sevarl teeth while hand cranking. I can't be sure but I think it's around 80 after TDC and I don't know how many teeth have slipped - may be 4 or 5...

HELP!!!

Edit - Been out to look again. Despite setting and then tightening the tensioner to 20Nm it has slipped and there is no tension at all - hence the belt sip.

[Lazydocker]

Should be ok... Reposition all the "cogs" to the correct position, without forcing anything, lock it all up and start again

[chrisdb]

Should be ok... Reposition all the "cogs" to the correct position, without forcing anything, lock it all up and start again

As its already moved some way (from looking at the crankshaft, it looks like it's at 110 degrees from TDC) how can I tell where is about right to move it back to? I did not catch the number of teeth slipped - I suppose I could guess at about 5...

[jonathanh]

can you get the crank back to tdc and the cams back to 1,2, 3 and 4 marks?  if you can do this without forcing anything you should be ok.

Second.  when you get back to this position, please identify why you could get the tensioner tightened up to 20nm then it slips on you?  this should not happen.  Havr you got the right both in the tensioner - the right length that is?
or did you have a bit of slack between cam 4 and the crank allowing the belt to slip?  

This happened to me and with patience and a bit of thinking you can recover the position with not harm done.  

[chrisdb]

can you get the crank back to tdc and the cams back to 1,2, 3 and 4 marks?  if you can do this without forcing anything you should be ok.

Second.  when you get back to this position, please identify why you could get the tensioner tightened up to 20nm then it slips on you?  this should not happen.  Havr you got the right both in the tensioner - the right length that is?
or did you have a bit of slack between cam 4 and the crank allowing the belt to slip?  

This happened to me and with patience and a bit of thinking you can recover the position with not harm done.  

Thanks Jonathan. I moved the crankshaft back by a few teeth and set the tension back on the belt. Started to rotate again very gently to get back to TDC and after a few degrees I can feel the valves are hitting so have stopped for now - no damage done yet I think.

I had problems with the tensioner last week when I first fitted the new kit. I found that once I had set the tension (4mm past the mark) and tightened to 20Nm the tensioner would have moved quite a distance by the time I finished the first revolution. Marks DTM told me to move the tensioner a good 15mm past the mark and this seemed to work - it stayed put while I rotated. I did not drive the car much - there was a squeeking noise with sounded like the camshaft to today I stipped it down to try and locate the fault. Doing this I noticed that one of the brand new tensioners was leaking grease (there is a picture on another post I did today) so I replaced the tensioners because I had a spare new set. Again I set the new tensioner to 4mm past the mark and tightened to 20nm and this time it just slipped totally... no tension at all. I don't remember there being an awfult lot of slack after cam 4. I did not remove the belt to change the tensioners.

[Kevin Wood]

Turn the crank to 60 degrees before or after TDC, whichever is closest, then lock the cams in the TDC positions, carefully turn crank back to TDC and start again.

It pays to put maximum tension on the belt the first time you rotate the engine, then adjust it correctly once the engine has turned 720 degrees. Some slack will come out of the belt on the first turn.

Kevin

[jonathanh]

don't know if it helps but I changed my belt about 5k miles ago.  Every now and againI get a squeal on start up from the cambelt area.  typically only when cold.  i think it is just a noisy belt (Mark DTM I think said the new unmarked belts from GM are noisy)  anyway I'm planning to check my tensioner at some point as well.

I could possibly make it up to chesterfield next weekend if that helps

[chrisdb]

Thanks very much for all you help guys, especially Loo-knee who spent a lot of time on the phone with me late last night.

I managed to get the crankshaft back last night. Once I realised that all I needed to do was turn it gently and then when I got resistance I turned the camshafts until the crank was free again, it was quite easy to put everything back into position. I carried on this morning and fitted the belt. Until I spoke to Loo-knee I did not realise a lot of my problems have been because there has been too much slack in the lower right side of the belt. Also, I after initially setting the tensioner positions to 12 and 3 o'clock I was not adjusting them to take up the slack before rotating the engine - previously I would rotate the engine and the try to use the tensioners to bring the cams back into line, but by this time they had already moved too far to bring back.

This moring, after fitting and tensioning the belt perfectly I discovered that last night I had actually put the crank 180 degrees out - I spotted this as soon as it got stuck when I started turning the crank!

Spent the rest of this morning setting it all up again, and after only timy adjustments and loads of cranking it all seems to be timed perfectly.

Just putting it all back together now so will post up the result later.

  Cheers everyone!

[blue_dream]

Hi
    I did the same thing last week, first time doing the cambelt thing, belt slip on first hand crank and the same place between cam four and crank, belt lines all out!!!!!  came onto the form in panic and was advice on won't to do next, I must say this is a great place for infor along with great people.
                                            Thanks  

[Welung666]

Thanks very much for all you help guys, especially Loo-knee who spent a lot of time on the phone with me late last night.

I managed to get the crankshaft back last night. Once I realised that all I needed to do was turn it gently and then when I got resistance I turned the camshafts until the crank was free again, it was quite easy to put everything back into position. I carried on this morning and fitted the belt. Until I spoke to Loo-knee I did not realise a lot of my problems have been because there has been too much slack in the lower right side of the belt. Also, I after initially setting the tensioner positions to 12 and 3 o'clock I was not adjusting them to take up the slack before rotating the engine - previously I would rotate the engine and the try to use the tensioners to bring the cams back into line, but by this time they had already moved too far to bring back.

This moring, after fitting and tensioning the belt perfectly I discovered that last night I had actually put the crank 180 degrees out - I spotted this as soon as it got stuck when I started turning the crank!

Spent the rest of this morning setting it all up again, and after only timy adjustments and loads of cranking it all seems to be timed perfectly.

Just putting it all back together now so will post up the result later.

  Cheers everyone!

He'll talk for hours if you let him

[chrisdb]

Thanks very much for all you help guys, especially Loo-knee who spent a lot of time on the phone with me late last night.

I managed to get the crankshaft back last night. Once I realised that all I needed to do was turn it gently and then when I got resistance I turned the camshafts until the crank was free again, it was quite easy to put everything back into position. I carried on this morning and fitted the belt. Until I spoke to Loo-knee I did not realise a lot of my problems have been because there has been too much slack in the lower right side of the belt. Also, I after initially setting the tensioner positions to 12 and 3 o'clock I was not adjusting them to take up the slack before rotating the engine - previously I would rotate the engine and the try to use the tensioners to bring the cams back into line, but by this time they had already moved too far to bring back.

This moring, after fitting and tensioning the belt perfectly I discovered that last night I had actually put the crank 180 degrees out - I spotted this as soon as it got stuck when I started turning the crank!

Spent the rest of this morning setting it all up again, and after only timy adjustments and loads of cranking it all seems to be timed perfectly.

Just putting it all back together now so will post up the result later.

  Cheers everyone!

He'll talk for hours if you let him

[CaptainZok]

Thanks very much for all you help guys, especially Loo-knee who spent a lot of time on the phone with me late last night.

I managed to get the crankshaft back last night. Once I realised that all I needed to do was turn it gently and then when I got resistance I turned the camshafts until the crank was free again, it was quite easy to put everything back into position. I carried on this morning and fitted the belt. Until I spoke to Loo-knee I did not realise a lot of my problems have been because there has been too much slack in the lower right side of the belt. Also, I after initially setting the tensioner positions to 12 and 3 o'clock I was not adjusting them to take up the slack before rotating the engine - previously I would rotate the engine and the try to use the tensioners to bring the cams back into line, but by this time they had already moved too far to bring back.

This moring, after fitting and tensioning the belt perfectly I discovered that last night I had actually put the crank 180 degrees out - I spotted this as soon as it got stuck when I started turning the crank!

Spent the rest of this morning setting it all up again, and after only timy adjustments and loads of cranking it all seems to be timed perfectly.

Just putting it all back together now so will post up the result later.

  Cheers everyone!

He'll talk for hours if you let him

Careful you'll have EP getting jealous.

[chrisdb]

Just an update to let you all know that other than a smoking engine (not sure but think it's oil burning off), all seems well. The engine sounds good and feels smooth.

When I first started up I had EML flashing - read the codes :-

16   Knock Signal Circuit 1
19   Incorrect RPM Signal
21   Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Voltage High

The knock sensor wire had been damaged previosuly and I did a solder repair to it, so thouht I'd need to get another one. However, afetr a gentle 10 minute drive the EML went off and stayed off  

Will drive again later to see if the smoke goes away after a while.

Cheers everyone