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[mv6-96]

I need some tips and help, and was hoping that the users on this forum might know the solution of the following problem:

I was picking up the car after work today, the car had been standing still for about 3 weeks, so a booster was needed. When I took off from the parkinglot I was only able to accelerate up to 1800 rpm before the yellow enginge indication was lid, and the sound was terrible when it peaked 1800 rpm. Temp was about -0,5C. Since everything was closed I drove nice and easy back home and the temp was going down to -6C It went up to about 2200 RPM and I was able to reach  about 90 km/h.

I tried to zero out any faults etc by loosing the batterycables and make a new groundpoint by holding the batterycables against each other for about 30 seconds.

None of this helped, and in my world all of this tending against air or maybe the RPM sensor?
The engine it self sounds normal and offcourse great up to 1900 RPM.

Car:
MV6 3.0 V6, year: 96.
Mileage: 245.000 KM
Oil level OK
Plugs(?) (Not sure about the correct english word) Not sure.

Thanks in advance. Please help my Omega!

Sorry if this question may have been asked and answered before, or if its wronposted!

[Entwood]

Okies .. first thing to do is to get the codes for the EML ... to do that just follow the instructions here ..

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189022687

all you need is a bent paperclip, a pen and a bit of paper

Once you know the fault codes tell us and we'll move on from there ..

[iainb]

Hello
 Please try a simple trick with your car.
Start the engine and let it idle until the temp gauge starts to move up.
Then drive it gently until you gets to normal temp.

I guess your in a cold climate, if so do you have a block heater fitted that you can connect to the mains. If you do use that for a few hours.

It just sound like the cold has affected it beyond the normal range.

Iain

[mv6-96]

Entwood : Is it possible to clear all faultcodes?
It could be so simple that, since the car was out of battery that ECU detected some inactive faults. Which in some cases, like I know trucks, could result in some funny results, usually the faults disappear when clearing the codes.

Iainb Actually the car had the lifetime in ever colder parts of Sweden before I bought it! But I was into the same thoughts as you!
Since it did "wake" up when the temp dropped it looks like it has something to do with the airflow, since cold air are compressed...
But that dosent explain why I cant rev the enginge passed about 2200 rpm!

[Andy B]

Entwood : Is it possible to clear all faultcodes?
It could be so simple that, since the car was out of battery that ECU detected some inactive faults. Which in some cases, like I know trucks, could result in some funny results, usually the faults disappear when clearing the codes.  .......

When the fault has been repaired, the engine management light will go out itself. The only warning light that when triggered needs re-setting, is the airbag light.      

[mv6-96]

Entwood : Is it possible to clear all faultcodes?
It could be so simple that, since the car was out of battery that ECU detected some inactive faults. Which in some cases, like I know trucks, could result in some funny results, usually the faults disappear when clearing the codes.  .......

When the fault has been repaired, the engine management light will go out itself. The only warning light that when triggered needs re-setting, is the airbag light.      

Im sorry about this missing, but vital info. There is no warninglights before the Rpm stutters at about 2200. When I let the speed drop to below max rpm, the enginelight goes out. So there is no faults before the engine reached 2200 RPM.
I know this is hard to read, but I hope there is possible to make some sense out of it!

[Andy B]

Entwood : Is it possible to clear all faultcodes?
It could be so simple that, since the car was out of battery that ECU detected some inactive faults. Which in some cases, like I know trucks, could result in some funny results, usually the faults disappear when clearing the codes.  .......

When the fault has been repaired, the engine management light will go out itself. The only warning light that when triggered needs re-setting, is the airbag light.      

Im sorry about this missing, but vital info. There is no warninglights before the Rpm stutters at about 2200. When I let the speed drop to below max rpm, the enginelight goes out. So there is no faults before the engine reached 2200 RPM.
I know this is hard to read, but I hope there is possible to make some sense out of it!

If the EML has been on, then the fault code will be recorded and  you should be able to read it. The EML does not still need to still be on.

[vauxmad]

yeah just try the paper clip method its dead simple andworks everytime, its then justa case of finding out what caused the fault code in the first place

[mv6-96]

yeah just try the paper clip method its dead simple andworks everytime, its then justa case of finding out what caused the fault code in the first place

Thats easy. I drove by the local Gm dealer, and there was 3 faultcodes, 1 for the antitheft and 1 for low voltage. (jumpstart the day before) and fault code for the crankshaft. (its the sensor which is telling if the engine are running or not. For some reason it could tell that the engine was running upto 2400 RPM, which lasted for about 30 minutes) I was on my way to a carparts shop in order to try to get the part, but ended up at the same place I started this morning.

Part nr 12387740. Fixed tomorrow.