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[Black Knight]

Morning,

Can someone confirm this is the sump plug that is to be removed?



It's stuck fast, absolutely solid atm. Given in a soak in WD40, don't know what else to do. Worried it's going to round off.

Using this tool. Correct? Or should I use something else?

[webby23]

It is mate yes, but yours looks nothing like mine, and may even be a bodge job (mine OR yours dont know which !!!)

 

[webby23]

Also be very careful as you're using your jack the wrong way round........turn it 90 degrees to slot over the cross member

[Black Knight]

Ta,

I've another axle stand as the main support, thats ones just wedged in as an additional.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Thats the axle stand and idealy you would not jack or support under the sub frame.

That sump plug looks standard.

As for the tool being used to remove it, if thats a torx screwdriver you have no chance as you cant get enough force behind it.

[Elite Pete]

It came out fine and went back OK when I replaced the oil last time and I only torqued it up to 10nm

[Black Knight]

Cheers, not a screwdriver, a T bar.

Managed to get it out, gave it as good whack with a universal tool!

Filters off and just draining now so well away.

Thanks all

[TheBoy]

That is a standard Omega sump plug.  Very early ones were Hex bolts torqued to 55Nm, this torx type is 10Nm, and doesn't need a copper sealing washer.

As point out, that axle stand is lethal as the car could easily slip off it

Additionally, do not use the subframe crossmember to support the car - its not designed for it, and will likely damage the subframe

[Agemo]

Glad you're sorted, in my opinion the hex plugs were better, on my last Mig, I swapped the Torx for an old Hex.  

[Lizzie_Zoom]

That is a standard Omega sump plug.  Very early ones were Hex bolts torqued to 55Nm, this torx type is 10Nm, and doesn't need a copper sealing washer.

As point out, that axle stand is lethal as the car could easily slip off it

Additionally, do not use the subframe crossmember to support the car - its not designed for it, and will likely damage the subframe

That's interesting TB as my 2000 CDX has that very hex sump plug, and before I bought it the car was serviced by a main Vx dealer.

It seems to do the job though, and it is never a problem loosening it. 8-) 8-)

[TheBoy]

Glad you're sorted, in my opinion the hex plugs were better, on my last Mig, I swapped the Torx for an old Hex.  

Why? The torx are a million times better  :-/ - only 10Nm (so no chance of stripping threads), no pesky copper washers.  Can't see any advantage a hex one has

[Agemo]

The hole in the Torx plug tended to get filled with road dirt, Hex plugs just seemed easier. I have nothing wrong with the Torx on my TD, because the sump is protected from below.

[Black Knight]

Yeah knew you had done it correctly Pete, wasn't getting at that mate.

Can't belive how filthy the oil had got in less than 2K, it was like it has come out of a diesel!

Planning on doing at again in 2.5K and hopefully the three changes will clear any nastyness out.

[TheBoy]

The hole in the Torx plug tended to get filled with road dirt, Hex plugs just seemed easier. I have nothing wrong with the Torx on my TD, because the sump is protected from below.

I 5.5yrs of owning my MV6, never had that issue  :-/

[kcl]

That is a standard Omega sump plug.  Very early ones were Hex bolts torqued to 55Nm, this torx type is 10Nm, and doesn't need a copper sealing washer.

As point out, that axle stand is lethal as the car could easily slip off it

Additionally, do not use the subframe crossmember to support the car - its not designed for it, and will likely damage the subframe

[/color]

But why? I have jacked the car up from the front cross member always when changing the tyres (and we do it twice a year here) and it is the only place where to lift to get the whole front up at the same time. What will be/what have I damaged?