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Author Topic: Rusty door sills  (Read 1294 times)

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NiallyV6CDX

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Rusty door sills
« on: 07 May 2009, 13:18:39 »

Hi, I have noticed on my 99 omega there are two rust spots appearing on the bottom edge of both front doors, one right in the middle, one towards the front corner. Does anyone know what causes this fault + how best to treat it? Its funny how it should happen in exactly the same place on both doors :-/ ?
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tmx

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Re: Rusty door sills
« Reply #1 on: 07 May 2009, 13:58:29 »

happens to most Prefacelift omegas :'(
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largecol

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Re: Rusty door sills
« Reply #2 on: 07 May 2009, 15:29:36 »

Quite common, probly due to a blockage in the small drainage `vents` at the bottom of the door sills leading to  build-up of crap and therefore holding water. The cure is as it would be on any panel, remove blockage, treat the affected area and make good with the filling/painting! Over-simplified i know, but the other options are to leave it and let the door rot, or find some transplant doors from another Mig.   :y
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tmx

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Re: Rusty door sills
« Reply #3 on: 07 May 2009, 15:31:34 »

i transplanted my'n for later prefacelift doors rears need replacing now too!

no point fixing imho the rust just comes back a yr later
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largecol

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Re: Rusty door sills
« Reply #4 on: 07 May 2009, 16:59:49 »

Quote
i transplanted my'n for later prefacelift doors rears need replacing now too!

no point fixing imho the rust just comes back a yr later

As long as the repair point and surrounding areas are properly treated, they should last as long as the rest of the car. . . .  :y
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Jampy

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Re: Rusty door sills
« Reply #5 on: 07 May 2009, 18:45:40 »

I am repairing same areas and rear wings on mine right now.  I checked many websites and forums and concluded that the best treatment is an American product called POR-15.  A starter kit can be obtained from Holden Vintage & Classic in Bromyard, Herefordshire.  POR-15 is normally used to treat and protect the chassis of vintage cars, but I can see it will give the same protection to bodywork.  Basically, the idea is that if you can totally exclude moisture from existing rust with something that sticks like hell and won't release at the edges, or develop porosity, then the rust is locked in and remains unchanged.  Normal fillers and primers can be used on top, and finished as normal.  I have also found it very handy for stopping minute rusted chips turning into something nasty, applying to small areas with a toothpick.  It is ideal because it is also self levelling. POR means "paint over rust" It bonds best of all to rusty areas after removing any flaky rust.

POR-15 is also extensively used in marine applications and is claimed to protect for at least 10 years.

Do a search of POR-15 and convince yourself.  Holden is found on www.holden.co.uk and provides back-up information.
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tmx

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Re: Rusty door sills
« Reply #6 on: 07 May 2009, 19:19:14 »

Bromyard eh you from round those parts?
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Jampy

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Re: Rusty door sills
« Reply #7 on: 07 May 2009, 19:40:26 »

Nope, I'm not from Bromyard.  Try Daventry!  Maybe I sounded as if I was doing a selling job, but really I have done this repair work and am impressed with what is promised, the experience of others, and what I have found so far.

I'm just a retired bloke trying to keep his 1999 Omega fit and running for as long as possible, and be helpful to someone else doing the same thing.  Three years back I tried a well-known UK rust treatment but it broke down within the year, probably because it works on the principle of converting the rust to something else and painting over it with a coat incapable of sealing in the repair.  

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holtender

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Re: Rusty door sills
« Reply #8 on: 08 May 2009, 00:41:40 »

In my experience the ONLY rust treatment for panels that really works is to totally remove the rust using a grinder!

My favorite treatment on old classic cars was to lead load the repair, not as hard as you might think and a very permanant repair with real metal.
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Jampy

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Re: Rusty door sills
« Reply #9 on: 08 May 2009, 08:27:10 »

Maybe Holtender the reason for your success with lead loading the repair is that it achieves the same objective as POR-15, namely sticking like hell to the area, not peeling at the edges, and free of porosity.  Also, lead loading and POR-15 wouldn't develop surface cracks.
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