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[cem_devecioglu]

yep..you must wait some days before sanding the ridge..Then you have to apply some transition (thats not easy as said) and apply laquer after..

[sev]

If you've got a ridge caused by the tape then you've really got a couple of choices:

Try to rub the ridge down (feather blend) the edge back in and then laquer

or

Restart.

I'd actually restart  -

cut and polish the panel you've been trying to paint
This will remove all road grimes and restore the colour of the panel - which will make it easier to colour match your respray and also, it will make certain that the panel is contaminant free.

Rub down the area to be sprayed and several inches around the area
this is so that when yu apply the laquer you can blend it into the adjoining area
mask off the area as before, but this time double a small bit of the masking tape over, so you have an edge of masking tape that cannot stick down, about 10 mm or so.

What this does is stand up from the surface and creates a 'soft edge' which will naturally feather the paint

Apply filler primer - guidecoat and sand.

Apply base coat (colour)

Wait for base coat to flash off (around 30 mins)
This allows all solvents in the basecoat to fully expell from the product and so won't get trapped under the laquer

remove soft edge masking and apply laquer.
To blend the laquer, try to 'flick' the gun/can at the end of the stroke.

Leave to dry as per instructions and then compound polish the panel with something like G10 if you can.
Flat back with some 2000 and then use compound to polish the laquer and blend in the overspray.  The 2000 will remove any overspray and dry spots which will feel gritty under the touch

Make tea and blow own trumpet!

Would a how to hand for this?  :question

[holtender]

Hmmm.............. I'll pass on that one, but I carn't see it effecting the colour to be honest.

[duggs]

Thank you for all your advice.   In fairness she's nearly 12 yrs old and has a few other minor rust issues. Just didn't want to drive around with rear rusty wheel arches so thought ANYTHING better than rust would look better....so the result is a sucess I guess.

It was literally the wheel arches that had gone really bad. I'll smooth out the ridge in a day or too and have a little spray of laquer. Any dangers using lacuer..traditionally it runs quite easily I thought.

[holtender]

Using laquer is foolproof I would guess if you can have the basics of paint spraying.

Just spray it on in three or four light coats cut it back and thats it.

But the real acid test is................ how good was your prep?

[duggs]

he he he..pretty good i think for a amataur.

Put it this way...most wouldn't notice i'd done anything....as i said..anything looks better than rust.

[holtender]

Maybe, but I'd rather have a rusty wing then a poorly repaired one.

[duggs]

No contest.    Metallic red car...Brown yucky rust..shows up terribly.

Least a bad repair is remotely the same colour...although I think my repair is pretty good.

[holtender]

Sorry mate, I wasn't refering to your repair which I'm confident was spot on.

But I'd much rather see the genuine rust rather then a badly repaired body panel.

[duggs]

Personally, I'd rather someone crashed in to my body panels so that i could buy a nice Elite with the insurance money...so far it just hasn't happened darn it.

[Cybertrucker]

he he he..pretty good i think for a amataur.

Put it this way...most wouldn't notice i'd done anything....as i said..anything looks better than rust.

The real test of your prep isn't now, it's in twelve months time - will the rust have come back...?  

Over the years I, and my Dad before me, have used Kurust, Rust Eater, and all sorts of other patent nostrums to kill rust, and none of them work all that well.  (I tried some expensive stuff some years ago which was supposed to form a layer of interlocking glass platelets which would prevent rust ever forming again. It had started to rust again almost before the damn stuff was dry...)  The only sure way to stop rust is to cut it all out.  My Dad was in a body shop once, and he asked the chap what he used to get rid of rust.  "I'll show you what we use to get rid of rust" he said, and Dad's just thinking "Aha, this is going to be the real stuff, which is only available to the motor trade" when the bloke picked up an angle grinder...

One more quick point about rust, which people tend to forget - remember that a steel sheet has two sides, not one!  You've made a nice weatherproof job of the outside, but is there exposed metal (the edges of any holes you've filled, for example) on the inside?  If possible (and where there are two panels welded together it's not always easy) try and get some underseal or similar on the back of your repair job to keep the air and water off it, otherwise there's a danger that the rust will sneak up on you from behind and make a mess of your beautiful paint job.  

[duggs]

Thank you for all your help once again. Tis all done now...the most important tip for me was the use of "cutting paste"..wow what a job that did.

Its not perfect but as i said..better than rust.

Also, what I didn't mention...A bodyshop quoted me £350 JUST to do the rear wheel arches PLUS told me that there was no guarantee that the rust wouldn't be back in 6 months time....so if my DIY job lasts more than 6 months...I'll be a happy bunny...hopefully it will go a lot longer than that..We'll see ?

[Cybertrucker]

.
Also, what I didn't mention...A bodyshop quoted me £350 JUST to do the rear wheel arches PLUS told me that there was no guarantee that the rust wouldn't be back in 6 months time....so if my DIY job lasts more than 6 months...I'll be a happy bunny...hopefully it will go a lot longer than that..We'll see ?

For 350 notes I'd hope they were quoting for putting patch panels in rather than just flatting the rust down and painting over it, though to only guarantee proper panels against rust for six months seems a bit pessimistic.  I had a rear arch put on my Granada, and there's rust showing again now, but it was done over five years ago!

[Jampy]

I know this is after the event since all of the preparation work has been completed, but I am half way through doing the same work on my wheel arches.  Beforehand, I searched for advice on the internet and found leads to an American product available in the UK called POR-15.  They have compared themselves to all other products which claim to convert rust to something else and say this is a waste of time, since it is the access of moisture after the repair that allows the rust to appear again.  They claim to stop this access for at least 10 years by applying a polyurethane based coating which not only sticks directly to rust but seals it in with no porosity or cracking.  

It was developed for painting rusted car chassis for long-term protection from future rust, but it works equally well on bodywork.

I have now used this on my car.  Previous use of Hammerite followed by a bodyseal just allowed the rust to return before 12 months .

[mick-1975]

Sorry....by saying edge..i mean where the tape was around the spray area. I made a defined "curve" with tape and newspaper about 1 inch from the edge of the wheel arch so that i could incorporate all the rust.

I wasn't sure If i should have allowed the paint to over spray slightly but got scared and have just been left with a VERY  thin ridge/edge between old and new paint.

   hi all , i have found when in the paint job , when spraying  the first paper goes on with tape , then the second paper goes over lapping the first then bend the paper back up and re tape it , (dont fold second piece ) that will give u no edge where the tape would have been all u ned to do then is flat it back a little ,