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[doz]

Looks like I couldn't keep away from the call of the MIg I have just purchased a Omega elite 3lt auto estate. It's a 96 on a N. Overal it's pretty tidy. Had a VX replacment engine at 74k miles and now showing 135k. About 3k miles ago the cambelt tensoner let go and wrecked the heads. All rebuilt with new valves etc. Car was fine then it just started running like a right shed. It was stood up for 3 months before muggins here got involved. The car starts ok but it idles like a complete bag of nails pick the revs up to about 1600 rpm it runs on all six. I wasn't confident to drive it like this also the battery wouldn't hold a charge so if it stalled I'd be boned. One of the issues is the exhaust manifold or the down pipe joint on both sides is blowing bad. My problem is. Is it running like a turd because of the exhausts or do you think there's another fault some where. Anybody else have any experince of this? I've gonna plug it in to the old tech1 but where as my cartridge seems the cover it the socket on the car is tech2. Can you use some sort of converter lead? I've paid peanuts for this car so if it's terminal I'll just break it. It's got a wierd number plate which I had valued to day at 400 quid so I'll make some doh on that (I hope)

Yours wishing Vx had stuck the nice easy straight 6 in the Mig

Doz  

[tigers_gonads]

with that engine you can use the paperclip test mate  
no fault code reader needed

link is here    http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1189022687

post the results on here and take it from there  

[damon80]

What kind of condition are the plug leads and spark plugs in?  Duffed plugs or leads can cause mis-firing.

As can oil in the plug wells - which would mean cam-cover gaskets.

I think they'd be your first port of call  

[Martin_1962]

SOunds like cam covers or DIS pack

[doz]

Hi. Thanks for the prompt replys. Plug wells are dry no sign of any leakage. Leads look ok but maybe the originals. Seems strange that once the revs pick up it revs ok. .

[cem_devecioglu]

one thing to note..apart from other things I can guarantee exhaust leak effects the engines working badly because of sensors..

even a small hole before the sensors change it ..experienced ..

and another common problem which breaks the idle is air leak from the gaskets under the plenum , the gaskets under the breather and from the idle valve..

[The Red Baron]

same sort of prob with my 3.0l, the egr was duff. blanked it off, runs fine now.  

[Bent valve]

 If I were you I would check that your cambelt hasnt jumped a tooth or 4! A similar thing happened to mine recently, ( see my post 'sudden loss of power' ) that was caused by debris from the previous tensioner lurking unseen somwhere.

 That also sounded a bit farty when it was running, due I think to blowback from the untimed valves

[doz]

cheers guys. If it has jumped a tooth did it bend the valves?

[Bent valve]

cheers guys. If it has jumped a tooth did it bend the valves?

Mine didnt but i was very lucky...

[feeutfo]

Looks like I couldn't keep away from the call of the MIg I have just purchased a Omega elite 3lt auto estate. It's a 96 on a N. Overal it's pretty tidy. Had a VX replacment engine at 74k miles and now showing 135k. About 3k miles ago the cambelt tensoner let go and wrecked the heads. All rebuilt with new valves etc. Car was fine then it just started running like a right shed. It was stood up for 3 months before muggins here got involved. The car starts ok but it idles like a complete bag of nails pick the revs up to about 1600 rpm it runs on all six. I wasn't confident to drive it like this also the battery wouldn't hold a charge so if it stalled I'd be boned. One of the issues is the exhaust manifold or the down pipe joint on both sides is blowing bad. My problem is. Is it running like a turd because of the exhausts or do you think there's another fault some where. Anybody else have any experince of this? I've gonna plug it in to the old tech1 but where as my cartridge seems the cover it the socket on the car is tech2. Can you use some sort of converter lead? I've paid peanuts for this car so if it's terminal I'll just break it. It's got a wierd number plate which I had valued to day at 400 quid so I'll make some doh on that (I hope)

Yours wishing Vx had stuck the nice easy straight 6 in the Mig

Doz  

Try paper clip test as above. It reads engine fault codes. Which will help you diagnose the problem.

[doz]

Fault codes shouldn't be a problem. I've got a Tech1 and the Omega cartridge  

[doz]

ok I've got the fault codes.

It appears I have 4 issues
69 intake air voltage low
19 incorrect rpm signal
94 hall sensor voltage hi
49 battery voltage hi.

This is the order they came off the car. As these motors don't have a distributer I'm surprised the about th hall sensor can anybody explain that one? The battery hi could be down to us needing to jump start the car.

Can anybody shed some light on the issues and what to start checking?

[dbug]

19 is crank sensor fault - I'd replace that first and then recheck to see if other codes still there.

[doz]

silly question. where is it?