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[christhe kiwi]

Thanks for that, the ideas was just to use the old belt immediately after reassembly for about a week or so. If i get work done on the head i would definitely go the new belt KIT.

[christhe kiwi]

i'm pretty keen to throw on some new gaskets and run it with the old timing belt, which appears to be in excellent condition despite it having done 80k according to written service history. I can always change the belt later. The valve nearest looks to have a bit shaved off it. Opinions please

Neither of the valves to the right look to be seated properly (unless it's the angle of the camera). Check the bore very closely before any re-assembly, the edge of that piston looks like it could have damaged the bore quite badly.

Lee.

P.S. The cam belt should be changed every 40k or 4 years not 80k/8years like Saab tells you

The bore is unmarked strangely enought. Perhaps what was stuck in there got wedged at the top in the gasket. Who knows. I think I will take the head to get tested. Do you think that piston would be ok as is?

[christhe kiwi]

They will all be in the closed position as there are no cams fitted.

I would consider stripping and re-building the heads or as a  minimum, carry out a leak test by re-fitting the spark plugs and filling the combustion chambers with parrafin or similar and leaving over night.

Also, have a good look down the exhaust and inlet ports for valve guide damage.

And are the plugs ok, no sign of electrode loss?

Yes i will likely do the heads. The plug on the cylinder was very dirty and rusty. All in one piece though. Can you explain what the parafin test is?

[Marks DTM Calib]

The paraffin test will check the sealing of the valve against the valve seat 

The bores are usualy fine and the pistons should be ok ( a small risk of a slightly crimped top ring which may up oil consumption slightly but, not excessively)

[christhe kiwi]

The paraffin test will check the sealing of the valve against the valve seat 

The bores are usualy fine and the pistons should be ok ( a small risk of a slightly crimped top ring which may up oil consumption slightly but, not excessively)

So you leave the head upside down to see how much escapes?

After cleaning this up a bit, the exhaust valves on both heads have a little chamfer off them i guess from skimming. The failed side has been machined further. Looks like whatever happened, someone skimmed off the bad side and slapped in another gasket. Now on the look out for a 2nd hand head or two. How far can you machine the head until it creates clearance problems? I guess the compression gets a bit higher too......

Several valves also have a lot of black scale looking down the exhaust ports. Assuming I can repair/replace the dodgy head is there are thread detailing valve stem replacement? I have looked....

[http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz154/christhekiwi/P6160124.jpg]

[christhe kiwi]

The paraffin test will check the sealing of the valve against the valve seat 

The bores are usualy fine and the pistons should be ok ( a small risk of a slightly crimped top ring which may up oil consumption slightly but, not excessively)

So you leave the head upside down to see how much escapes?

After cleaning this up a bit, the exhaust valves on both heads have a little chamfer off them i guess from skimming. The failed side has been machined further. Looks like whatever happened, someone skimmed off the bad side and slapped in another gasket. Now on the look out for a 2nd hand head or two. How far can you machine the head until it creates clearance problems? I guess the compression gets a bit higher too......

Several valves also have a lot of black scale looking down the exhaust ports. Assuming I can repair/replace the dodgy head is there are thread detailing valve stem replacement? I have looked....

[http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz154/christhekiwi/P6160124.jpg]

[christhe kiwi]

[http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz154/christhekiwi/P6160123.jpg][/img]

sorry just trying to get pic to load properly.

[Welung666]

[christhe kiwi]

The paraffin test will check the sealing of the valve against the valve seat 

The bores are usualy fine and the pistons should be ok ( a small risk of a slightly crimped top ring which may up oil consumption slightly but, not excessively)

So you leave the head upside down to see how much escapes?

After cleaning this up a bit, the exhaust valves on both heads have a little chamfer off them i guess from skimming. The failed side has been machined further. Looks like whatever happened, someone skimmed off the bad side and slapped in another gasket. Now on the look out for a 2nd hand head or two. How far can you machine the head until it creates clearance problems? I guess the compression gets a bit higher too......

Several valves also have a lot of black scale looking down the exhaust ports. Assuming I can repair/replace the dodgy head is there are thread detailing valve stem replacement? I have looked....

[http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/zz154/christhekiwi/P6160124.jpg]

Hi, Can anyone tell me if the engine/heads in a elite 3.0s are compatible with this engine being discussed? or are there variations...........?