Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[ScottieMV6]

I've lost my cambelt DVD temporarily and need to remove my cambelt kit.

HOw do I remove it? I've forgotten the procedure?

[Andy B]

I've never seen the DVD but I'd rotate the engine to align all the timing marks up & then remove the belt  :-/

[Darth Loo-knee]

I would be worried Scot being honest here, that you are attempting to do the head gaskets but don't know how to remove the cambelt :-?

[ScottieMV6]

Probably didn't word that very well. What I meant was is there a specific order that I need to undo the tensioners?

Anyway I have done it now. Only problem is that number 1 and 2 cams both moved when I released the tension. :-/

Have I done something wrong?

EDIT: Since the cams and heads are coming off the car I assume that it doesn't matter as they can be put back in the correct place?

[Ghost]

if you dont use a locking kit they will move due to the pressure of the valve springs on the cams,
if you havent used a locking kit be very careful getting them lined up right and turn the engion by hand to see if there is any blockeges or if it rund free.

[ScottieMV6]

if you dont use a locking kit they will move due to the pressure of the valve springs on the cams,
if you havent used a locking kit be very careful getting them lined up right and turn the engion by hand to see if there is any blockeges or if it rund free.

Didn't use a locking kit because according to the How to for changing the head gaskets the crank has to be at 60 degrees before TDC (which it is) to avoid the pistons and valves talking to each other. :-/

[Andy H]

if you dont use a locking kit they will move due to the pressure of the valve springs on the cams,
if you havent used a locking kit be very careful getting them lined up right and turn the engion by hand to see if there is any blockeges or if it rund free.

Didn't use a locking kit because according to the How to for changing the head gaskets the crank has to be at 60 degrees before TDC (which it is) to avoid the pistons and valves talking to each other. :-/

Turning the engine back 60 degrees from TDC was the correct thing to do. Now it is there do not turn it until you have reassembled everything and the cams are locked in position ready for the belt to go back on.

If the cams don't have to come off the head you could have saved yourself a fight to realign the cams by locking them at TDC, removing the belt and then turning the crank back 60 degrees (to avoid accidents).

[Bent valve]

if you dont use a locking kit they will move due to the pressure of the valve springs on the cams,
if you havent used a locking kit be very careful getting them lined up right and turn the engion by hand to see if there is any blockeges or if it rund free.

Didn't use a locking kit because according to the How to for changing the head gaskets the crank has to be at 60 degrees before TDC (which it is) to avoid the pistons and valves talking to each other. :-/

[/highlight]Its not so bad if theyre only talking, its when they start f*cking each other  THATS when you  get problems.

[ScottieMV6]

Quick question. If I now turn the cams by hand (with the crank at 60 degrees before TDC) and then lock them can I then remove the heads without removing the cams?

There is nothing wrong with the cams AFAIK just the head gasket.

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

I think the cams need to come out to get at the head bolts, but that's from memory...

[Bent valve]

You will have to remove at least one per head to get to the head bolts. if you have a 'thick' socket that wont get down past the remaining cam then both will have to come out

[ScottieMV6]

Right that explains that then

[Andy B]

You will have to remove at least one per head to get to the head bolts. if you have a 'thick' socket that wont get down past the remaining cam then both will have to come out

That's why you wanted to remove thecam first Scotie. As said I've never done an Omega before & didn't know that!