Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Ryan Hegarty]

Hello all - Just bought the year 2000 2.5 V6 Omega Elite Estate that I had been thinking about in my last post I think it does need an ABS ECU as the ABS and TC lights are on and no speedo although steering is ok, can anyone give me any info on how to get it repaired and what it is that actually goes wrong with it - also any info on how to remove and replace would be great, also does it need to be reprogrammed for the car if it is repaired?
Almost forgot, the paper clip test shows fault code 19.

Thanks in advance. 

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1152729807/2#2



 Usually costs about £125 to get repaired, by sending it away to a company...

[dbug]

ABS ECU swap fiddly job but doable.  If going 2nd hand route get one from same year and same model to avoid need for Tech2 session.

Code 19 is dodgy crank sensor.

[Platinum1]

Hello all - Just bought the year 2000 2.5 V6 Omega Elite Estate.

Ryan,

I feel for you mate, probably the worse thing (appart from a cam belt) to go on the car. Mine is taking me over a month now to get sorted out, cost me nearly a grand now and it is still not fixed. 3 garages don't know why after being repaired once by BBA Reman for 125 quid. The unit was sent back to reman 4 days ago and they have called me an hour ago to say that the unit is fine. WELL IF IT IS FINE THEN WHY IS THE P*XY T/C LIGHT STILL COMING ON THEN!!!

I have said it before on previous posts, Vauxhall and every other mechanic knows diddly squat about these abs/ecu unit problems and just fob you off with diatribe.

Sorry, very angry today    does not help you I know but I would not wish this problem on anyone.

[Kevin Wood]

I have said it before on previous posts, Vauxhall and every other mechanic knows diddly squat about these abs/ecu unit problems and just fob you off with diatribe.

Yes, this is true. Most systems on a car are well beyond today's mechanic.

However, replacing the ECU, whilst fiddly, is not a huge job, the ECUs can be refurbed with a good success rate and this is normally the end of the story.

Your experience is not typical and points to something else being wrong. You nave a working ECU now, so the next step would be to get the codes read from it and find out what it's not happy with IMO.

Kevin

[Ryan Hegarty]

Good day to all here - I'm working at the Omega estate today and have been checking the connections to the ABS sensors in the front wheels and have found they both read about 1.6 kohms - is this right?
Also it would appear that the front drivers side wheel bearing is knackered, when driving the car if I steer slightly to the right the noise from the bearing stops could this confirm it as being front drivers side - also is there any other way of checking the bearings.
Thanks

[Kevin Wood]

Best way to check bearings is to jack the wheel up and feel for play, and for roughness when rotated.

If both sensors are the same resistance I'd say the likelihood is they are OK.

Kevin

[Ryan Hegarty]

Thanks Kevin have tried jacking up car and feeling for play and roughness but they all seem fine but on the road theres a loud whining noise that goes away when I veer to the right.

[Kevin Wood]

Does the noise disappear under braking too? Thinking it might be a feathered edge on a brake pad.

Wheel bearings typically rumble when tired IME.

Kevin

[Ryan Hegarty]

Nope, definately a wheel bearing - past experiences of this noise LOL.

[splott]

Thanks Kevin have tried jacking up car and feeling for play and roughness but they all seem fine but on the road theres a loud whining noise that goes away when I veer to the right.

You will probably find its a rear bearing as the weight/drive is on the left hand rear bearing when you veer to the right. Does the noise go if  you take a long right corner? If it does and the front bearings seem OK then it is a rear bearing!

[Ryan Hegarty]

Back again I have cleaned the rear abs sensors, they were fairly dirty but no luck sorting out problem, I'm having a go at doing the same with the fronts but I'm finding them very difficult to remove - is there any set way of removing them?

Thanks Splott i'll check the rear wheel also.

[Ryan Hegarty]

Back again, have used a multimeter and have tested all four sensors while turning the wheels and all sensor are ok - is there any other things that I can check before repairing the ecu - also is there any method of testing the ecu without tech 2, similar to the paperclip test for the OBD.

[Ryan Hegarty]

When checking sensors I noticed that the rear drivers side sensor was very dirty could that perhaps have caused the fault and if so does the fault clear by itself after a drive and is this sensor the one that sends the info to the speedo.
Removing ECU looks to be a big enough task.
Can the car be driven without an ECU in place?

[Kevin Wood]

When checking sensors I noticed that the rear drivers side sensor was very dirty could that perhaps have caused the fault and if so does the fault clear by itself after a drive and is this sensor the one that sends the info to the speedo.
Removing ECU looks to be a big enough task.
Can the car be driven without an ECU in place?

If it were a sensor problem than it should have cleared the fault straight away. The sensors still work when quite dirty. It doesn't affect them as much as you might think.

It sounds to me like you have an ECU failure.

Removing the ECU is awkward but not too bad once you get a few items out of the way.

The car will drive without the ecu fitted with no abs, tc, cruise control, speed sensitive steering or speedo. I guess an insurance assessor might take a dim view of it, but it's no worse in practice than having a knackered ECU fitted. In some respects it's better because you know the steering assist isn't suddenly going to change.

Kevin