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[Bionic]

V6 petrol 2.5 Omega Elite
OK, I now have a Haynes manual and it does give a fairly straightforward explanation of what I want to do.
That being change the exhaust manifold gasket on the passenger side of the car.
Only problem is that it says the 'Left' and 'Right' hand bank!
Question! Does the 'Left' refer to the left as you look at it from the front of the car facing the rear, what I would call the Offside or drivers side of the car?
The manual pics are not much use either.
Does anyone have an article on this subject?
Cheers
Ray

[Neil_MV6]

Your left as if you were sitting in the car.

Passenger side (nearside) = left
Drivers side (offside) = right

[Bionic]

Now I am confused because the Haynes manual (section 4A.22) says under the heading of ' Right Hand Cylinder Bank' remove the oil filter.
Problem is that the oil filter is on the nearside, passenger or left side (looking from inside the car) of the engine!
Time this lot was made to a standard that everyone adheres to so it can be fully understood.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Now I am confused because the Haynes manual (section 4A.22) says under the heading of ' Right Hand Cylinder Bank' remove the oil filter.
Problem is that the oil filter is on the nearside, passenger or left side (looking from inside the car) of the engine!
Time this lot was made to a standard that everyone adheres to so it can be fully understood.

When referring to the engine, right hand bank is the 2-4-6 on the near side

[Bionic]

Great, thanx cos that what I had thought too just needed it confirmed. All I want now is a break in the weather so I can get started.
Cheers M8ty

[The Red Baron]

Now I am confused because the Haynes manual (section 4A.22) says under the heading of ' Right Hand Cylinder Bank' remove the oil filter.
Problem is that the oil filter is on the nearside, passenger or left side (looking from inside the car) of the engine!
Time this lot was made to a standard that everyone adheres to so it can be fully understood.

When referring to the engine, right hand bank is the 2-4-6 on the near side

yep, thats how i read it

[Bionic]

Thanx for the help everyone.
Must say that I am not exactly looking forward to getting the 246 manifold off insit though. Anyone know an easy way?

[Marks DTM Calib]

Thanx for the help everyone.
Must say that I am not exactly looking forward to getting the 246 manifold off insit though. Anyone know an easy way?

Underneath.

Front pipe off
Oil filter off
Bastard bolt off
Heat shields off
Manifold off.

Fit the studs back in the head (even if they came out with the nuts!)
Fit the gasket and then fit the manifold and other bits

[Bionic]

Bastard bolt? Which one is that? Fortunately I took the advice of a previous one and bought only genuine GM parts including the metal sandwich type manifold gasket. Cost a bit but are probably worth it in the long run. This is the list;                                     Manifold Gasket; 1 x GM0024416110 £8.75
Downpipe Gasket; 1 x GM0090499289 £6.85
Manifold Stud; 10 x GM0090106924 £6.30
Manifold Nut; M8, 10 x GM0011082413 £3.40
Downpipe Nut M10, 2 x GM0090570845 £5.16
Total inc vat £35.03
Hoping to get a start as soon as the weather gets a bit better.
Skin loss estimate please?
Ray

[feeutfo]

bartard bolt. Under the lifting eye by dip stick. Holds dip stick, coolent transfer pipe  to stat, and a bracket iirc. Been i while since i did that job.

Problem is you cant see the bugger. Accesss is limited, and its a torx head not a hex. No room to get a torx socket and patchet on it to remove it, and most people dont have a torx spanner so use a traditional spanner as thats all they have. Thats ok up to a certain torque, but more than that and the head rounds off if your over do it. Then you really are buggered. Plus its very difficult to get all 3 brackets lined up to allow the bolt to go in, especially as you cant really see what your doing.

When re fitting i used a small scriber or nail through the holes and brackets into the block thread to line them all up, then hold the brackets still, dont move anything, remove the nail and fire the bolt in. Simples. :-)

[Bionic]

Cherrs m8tey,
Torx gear is not a problem cos I bought a set a while ago so it looks like a winner.
Thought that that was bolt in question too. Rememember the f'in thing from when I did a water leak; Lost a lot of skin then too so best get the plasters ready.
Ray

[Marks DTM Calib]

Move the power steering reservoir and the flexi pipe associated with it will also move giving better access to the B-bolt.

Beware of the vent pipe in the lid of the res though.

[Bionic]

Nice one! The job is getting to look easier with every hint. Think I could just wish it done? NAH.. pity though!!!!!
While that B bolt is out I am going to have a look at it to see if can be modified in any way to make any future work easier, maybe by extending the head of it outwards. Perhaps welding a nut on a longer setbolt leaving just enough below the nut to match the original stud. Should have done that last time I had that Bbolt out!
Here comes the sun though so may get a start yet.

[Andy H]

I think somebody recommended a 10mm ratchet ring spanner for zipping it in and out (not for torquing it up).

I wonder if I can get a set for Christmas 

[Bionic]

Hm, Got as metric set of them anyway so may give it a whirl but still will try to extend the bolt shank for future ease.