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Author Topic: DBW Unit  (Read 677 times)

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Kaycee

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DBW Unit
« on: 15 January 2010, 20:13:45 »

hello gents i am changing the cam covers next week and will be cleaning out breathers and plenum can i take the DBW unit of the front without any fear of anything going wrong is it a sealed unit as i can see it being quite expensive if it goes belly up as i suspect my plenum is blocked TIA
Robert
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feeutfo

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Re: DBW Unit
« Reply #1 on: 15 January 2010, 21:17:09 »

Quote
hello gents i am changing the cam covers next week and will be cleaning out breathers and plenum can i take the DBW unit of the front without any fear of anything going wrong is it a sealed unit as i can see it being quite expensive if it goes belly up as i suspect my plenum is blocked TIA
Robert
nothing too much to worry about, i just unbolted the throttle body and cleaned but being carefull carefull not to splash carb ceaner on the dbw unit.

when removing plenum watch the connector and vac pipe under the throtle body, also remember to plug it in again when refitting (ahem) ::)
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Big_Roger

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Re: DBW Unit
« Reply #2 on: 15 January 2010, 23:33:28 »

Hi,
I have found that a spray of WD 40 or Silicone lubricant around any plugs, sockets, lugs, clips, indeed anything plastic that needs any persuasion, prising, or pulling etc to remove, especially when it's cold and or old is a great help.  I'm sure this tip has saved me breaking off many of the lug type fixings used on the Omega plastic bits.

 I found it easier to remove the DBW unit from the plenum and then unplug the elec plug. You can see what you're doing then. It is an expensive chunk to get heavy handed with.

Rather than just keep spraying on the carb cleaner, use a toothbrush and small bottle brush soaked in the cleaner to get worst off. Make sure the holes and ducts to the butterfly valves from the plenum pipes are clear.

As a precaution I made sure to keep the motor side of the DBW unit on the top at all times while cleaning it to lessen any chance of the carb cleaner running into the motor unit past the spindle seal.

I know there will be plenty of oil fumes to lubricate the spindle when you restart the engine, but I used a drop or two of Three in one oil when I assembled again.

I also used new "O" rings on all the joints, and only use correct torque on the bolts fixing the unit.  It's also a bit easier to get the water pipes and their silly little clips on before you bolt the unit back on. The vac pipe elbow has to wait until you get unit on, as pipe is not long enough to fit it before assembly.

With regard to replacing the camshaft cover gaskets, make sure to replace the "O" rings on the bolts, and don't overtighten them.
Use the correct sealant as directed, and make sure you have the wiring loom over the passenger side tied up well out of the way so that when you are refitting the camshaft cover you can see what you are doing and not wiggling the cover about too much and dislodge the gasket as you fit the cover.

If you didn't already know, when you are trying to remove the CPP units from over the spark plugs, instead of prising and levering with possible damage, after rmoving the fixing bolts, an 8mm bolt can be used in the fixing holes to jack out the units.

HTH

Roger
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Kaycee

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Re: DBW Unit
« Reply #3 on: 16 January 2010, 08:05:20 »

Thanks for that roger i did wonder about the coil packs thanks so are you saying take of the DBW unit before taking of the plenum
just another question how long does it take for the black sealant to go of
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feeutfo

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Re: DBW Unit
« Reply #4 on: 16 January 2010, 12:46:43 »

Quote
Thanks for that roger i did wonder about the coil packs thanks so are you saying take of the DBW unit before taking of the plenum
just another question how long does it take for the black sealant to go of
i used the genuine gm sealent which i trusted to be dry enough to start the car and drive it by the time it was all re assembled. And yes it probably is easier to remove the throttle body from the plenum first.
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