Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[going crazy]

I have had my 4 pod for 14 months now and I reckon the following as known problem areas (only a few I might have read / experienced)
1.      Wishbones
2.      Cam Sensor
3.      Door Rust
4.      Cambelts and hence the reduced interval to change them i.e. every 4 years

I am after a comprehensive list of known failures of these vehicles so I am well prepared for future shocks

Requesting every one to contribute

Thanks in advance for your contribution

[davethediver]

Although i agree that some of the problems you have listed may be more specific to the omega i wouldn't class them as faults, more like running issues associated with an 8 yr+ car.

Cambelts in my opinion should be changed every 40000 on most vehicles without a chain i do ( have experienced what happens when you don't first hand). 

[RobG]

Full coolant change every 2 years to reduce the risk of headgasket failure.
Coolant leaks tend to be the HBV at rear of engine.
Clean breathers every 12 months or run the risk of camcover gaskets leaking.
Poor idling is down to dirty ICV. Clean with breathers.
No doubt more will be posted.

[Abiton]

Not 4-pot unique, but on any older miggy, I think this thread is worth a view, especially if you smell petrol in the cabin: http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1186065848

On early 4-pots (inc. our N/96) there wasn't a flametrap/breather-filter fitted between crankcase breather pipe and camcover.  Well worth the money to get one from Vx if yours doesn't have it.  Should reduce clogging of the breathers beyond this point.

With the breather cleaning, I can't over-emphasise the importance of clearing the small breather jet just below the throttle, as detailed well in Grumpy's How-to.  Ours didn't idle reliably even with a brand new IACV until this was cleared.

One more: In the wiring tray that runs fore-and-aft along the top of the engine beside the camcover, there is a potential for short-circuits between wires.

This comes about because the injector connectors are integral to the cable tray, with the wiring emerging vertically.  Either side of these 8 wires, running horizontally, is a mass/mess of wires going to all sorts of sensors/DIS/EGR etc.  Because of the horizontal/vertical crossovers, there is potential for chafing of wires with engine vibration, and shorting out once the PVC insulation has been worn through.  This killed the Coolant Temperature Sensor on ours, and its replacement, before I discovered the real problem.

[going crazy]

Thanks to everyone who has replied till date. Any other opinions?