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Author Topic: Brake Pad Change  (Read 5029 times)

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tunnie

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Brake Pad Change
« on: 04 August 2006, 15:55:24 »

Well for the first time, I have jacked up a car and put it on Axel stands... whoooo  :D (basic for some but personal best for me!  ;D)

I now have the car on an axel stand and managed to remove the front drivers wheel.

It looks like the senors are intact if they are the white plastic connector.....




Now i don't know how to remove or replace the pads, looking at the caliper from behind i can see several nuts, but unsure which ones to un-do. As I only want to change the pads...



I can see 1 nut with the largish wire which seams to hold the main bit of the caliper i need to remove... could someone point me in the right direction?... much appriated   [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
« Last Edit: 04 August 2006, 15:55:49 by tunnie »
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #1 on: 04 August 2006, 15:58:38 »

Thats the one you undo.....caliper then swings off.

You will be doing well if you can get the sensors off without braking them.

Whilst under there its worth getting a can of wax oyl and spraying any corrosion and any fixings etc.....its a task that I am always thankful I did  when working on other bits in the future plus its good practice (some what old school thinking though)
« Last Edit: 04 August 2006, 16:02:25 by Mark »
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tunnie

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #2 on: 04 August 2006, 16:02:16 »

if the caliper 'swings' around, then i guess you have to remove the sensors first? before un-doing that nut?
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tunnie

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #3 on: 04 August 2006, 16:26:07 »

just trying to get that main nut off with the largish wire connecting to it... proving difficult...  >:(
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TheBoy

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #4 on: 04 August 2006, 16:29:29 »

There is a similar bolt underneath, use that one, then caliper can hinge upwards on the bolt seen in piccie.

It will be tight. Hope your toolset isn't too mickey mouse ;)

The sensors were shagged anyway weren't they?
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tunnie

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #5 on: 04 August 2006, 16:33:56 »

micky mouse  ;D

Got a full set of sockets, found them in the garage look pritty proffesional....


Although i think i might have just buggered something. I managed to un-do the very tight nut with the main wire connected to. At least i thought it was a wire... not seams to be a tube of brake fluid.

I have un-done the main nut and it seams to be draining oil or brake fluid!  :o

So i got scared and put the nut back in to double check what i am doing, have un-done the wrong nut?? :-[
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Elite Pete

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #6 on: 04 August 2006, 16:42:49 »

Sounds like youve undone the bleed nipple. The nut you should be undoing is the bottom one which has a consertina piece of rubber to the left of it. There is also a top one but you might ge away without undoing this one.
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TheBoy

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #7 on: 04 August 2006, 16:47:31 »

Doh!  It probably neede new brake fluid anyway!

In centre of your piccie is a bolt. Looking from underneath, there is another - undo that...
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TheOutcast

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #8 on: 04 August 2006, 17:08:20 »

I don't know what you've undone, but unless they've changed it on later models, you only need to undo the bottom bolt next to the concertina rubber. Then the whole calliper swivels upwards.
You only need to remove the calliper completely if you are changing the disk, or fitting a new calliper.
And be careful with it, when I did mine the top pin; where the other concertina rubber is; slid out and the calliper ended up swinging on the flexible pipe. It's not fixed in solid. Not a good idea!
I got my new pads from Vx and they came with new bolts. If yours didn't then you will need some thread locking compound, or whatever it's called these days.
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tunnie

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #9 on: 04 August 2006, 17:16:22 »

Quote
I don't know what you've undone, but unless they've changed it on later models, you only need to undo the bottom bolt next to the concertina rubber. Then the whole calliper swivels upwards.
You only need to remove the calliper completely if you are changing the disk, or fitting a new calliper.
And be careful with it, when I did mine the top pin; where the other concertina rubber is; slid out and the calliper ended up swinging on the flexible pipe. It's not fixed in solid. Not a good idea!
I got my new pads from Vx and they came with new bolts. If yours didn't then you will need some thread locking compound, or whatever it's called these days.


Yeah you only need to undo the 1 nut.
I took off the one with the concetina rubber bit, and the caliper swings upward.... now removed both pads (sensors snapped)

And tbh the pads don't look too bad....

Outside front pad...



Inside front pad....



brand new GM pad...



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tunnie

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #10 on: 04 August 2006, 17:49:54 »

what does everyone think of the current state of those pads? yay or nay to change?

Personally i think no looking at how much is left....

Whats does everyone else think....?

Oh btw since i acidently bleed the system a little i am going to do the whole hog.... any general advice on that would be great too.

Shall i drain every capliper in turn? - I'd like do a complete fluid change... and being a numpty... were is the brake fluid tank in the engine bay??

Thanks
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sounds2k

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #11 on: 04 August 2006, 19:04:01 »

I'll let others answer the bleed sequence, but the fluid reservoir is on top of the master cylinder - back left of the engine bay if at the front of car, facing the engine
« Last Edit: 04 August 2006, 19:04:29 by sounds2k »
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Markjay

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #12 on: 04 August 2006, 19:15:51 »

This may not be exactly the answer you were waiting for, but even though the pads are quite thick, while the pads are out, for the cost of a new set (£12.21+VAT on TC) I would renew them as a matter of course. If you were just taking the wheels off for inspection, I'd say leave 'em, but as they are already out...

Also, it is difficult to judge form the picture, but if your disks have a 'lip' then you should measure that they are not under the minimum thickness (25mm) and if so consider replacing them as well (£66.42+VAT with the pads on TC).

And last but not least - great pics, with your permission I may use them for the benefit on newbies in the future...




« Last Edit: 04 August 2006, 19:19:52 by markjay »
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Marks DTM Calib

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #13 on: 04 August 2006, 19:22:51 »

I know it seems like a strange c0omment but, file a ledaing and trailing 45 deg angle to the friction amterial, it help stop squealing.
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tunnie

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Re: Brake Pad Change
« Reply #14 on: 04 August 2006, 19:55:38 »

Quote
This may not be exactly the answer you were waiting for, but even though the pads are quite thick, while the pads are out, for the cost of a new set (£12.21+VAT on TC) I would renew them as a matter of course. If you were just taking the wheels off for inspection, I'd say leave 'em, but as they are already out...

Also, it is difficult to judge form the picture, but if your disks have a 'lip' then you should measure that they are not under the minimum thickness (25mm) and if so consider replacing them as well (£66.42+VAT with the pads on TC).

And last but not least - great pics, with your permission I may use them for the benefit on newbies in the future...

Feel free to use the pictures, I find doing jobs with pictures so much easier & more confident about doing the job knowing i have a picture to refer too.

The pictures are of my project car, and i am still aiming to make a profit.... and my main car, the facelift 2.2 needs pads more than the project car - So I think that will get the pads.

I think i will bleed the brake system and put some new fluid in. I understand i need DOT4 for the system??, and the reservoir is the sqaure / rectangle tank top left of the engine bay?
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