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[Shackeng]

As this topic keeps on repeating and the filters have previously been tightened by Superman with a large wrench why hasn't anyone said anything about just how tight it should be tightened?
During my long apprenticeship many years ago I was told, under pain of having to pay for any mistakes I made that after the old filter had been removed and disposed of correctly you first cleaned off the block suface and then put a light smear of clean oil onto it, you then made sure that the sealing ring was located correctly in the groove of the correct new cannister and lightly smeared that too. After screwing the cannister into its place until it was just finger tight you then tightened it a further 1/4 turn and no more.
Same applied to the loose filter element types.
You then ran the engine until it was warm then you checked the filter and sump plug for any leaks and finally the oil level on the dipstick.
I have always stuck to that method and have never had any filter on any of my cars (too many to remember) requiring anything other than my hand to remove them. The only time my wrench sees the light of day is usually for someone else's problem.
GudLuk

Agreed, IME one of the causes of problems removing items, nuts, bolts filters etc. is over-enthusiastic overtightening of same. Similarly many smaller size fittings are sheared by overtightening. I once removed the wheel nuts of my daughter car, which had just been to a main stealer, they could only be undone with me standing on a 3' breaker bar. I junked the bolts as they were probably beyond their elastic limit. 

[Andy B]

......
I once removed the wheel nuts of my daughter car, which had just been to a main stealer, they could only be undone with me standing on a 3' breaker bar. I junked the bolts as they were probably beyond their elastic limit. 

If you tighten to the correct torque (80ftlb?) and then use your wheel brace, it's surprisingly easy to tighten them further without really trying.