Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Ian_D]

For the people that don’t know about the problems I've been having...

I've been having problems with my Omega V6 where on and off over the last couple of months every now and then it would start running really rough. Recently on an 4 mile trip to work it would cut out 3-4 times each way  .

Couple of weeks ago the cutting out then turned into 'breaking down!' where it wouldn’t always start back up.

Anyway, read codes, and there was 19. Me thinking 'Thank god I've got the crankshaft code' - assuming that must have been causing the problems all along!

Fitted new sensor last week maybe? All seemed fine.

However yesterday I went on a bit of a run at a steady 80mph (normally it sits in town with the odd few 50-60 mph A roads couple of times a week) and noticed that randomly it was as if the engine was cutting out for a second, and then returning back to normal. It would do this some times a few times every 30 seconds or so, then I would do 5 miles without any problems??? (This was what it was doing before the crankshaft sensor was replaced aswell as the running rough)

Anyway..

Today, I changed the Oil + Filter and noticed that there was a random clicking sound from under the bonnet when it was ticking over.

After opening the bonnet I noticed that every time a relay clicked, the intake valve at the front of the engine briefly flipped open/closed!

It’s a purple relay that’s clicking, and looking at these diagrams  (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1176542235) it appears to be the fuel pump relay.

Now shouldn’t the fuel pump relay click on and stay on once the engines running?  :-/ :-/

[Andy B]

.....
Now shouldn’t the fuel pump relay click on and stay on once the engines running?  :-/ :-/

As far as I know, yes!
It's never been seen as a problem here with Omegas, but it's not uncommon for the FPR to cause a variety of odd-ball problems with a straight 6.  :-/  :-/

[Abiton]

Fuel pump relay will click off if the info the ECU's seeing from the crank sensor is not making sense, I think...

You fitted a genuine Vx one, right?

[Ian_D]

Fuel pump relay will click off if the info the ECU's seeing from the crank sensor is not making sense, I think...

You fitted a genuine Vx one, right?

Yes genuine GM. (Forgot to mention, I fitted a second hand crankshaft sensor about 9 months ago because the engine was cutting out for a fraction of a second every other junction / roundabout I pulled out from (wasn't a misfire though!). But thinking back its almost the same problem as what I’m having now! - I never had a code 19 then but that was all I could put it down to.)

I still don’t understand why the intake valve clicks with the fuel pump relay? 

[Ian_D]

Dont know if it helps, but heres a list of codes which the car had the day I changed the scranshaft sensor:

Total number of fault codes: 8

00133 - Intake Manifold Valve 2 Voltage Low
Present

00074 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Voltage High
Not present

00063 - Intake Manifold Valve 1 Voltage High
Not present

00054 - Fuel Pump Relay Voltage High
Not present

00062 - Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve Voltage High
Not present

00034 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Voltage High
Not present

00033 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Voltage Low
Not present

00019 - Incorrect RPM Signal
Not present

[rustym95]

i would say dodgy came sensor, there are a few that go that way do to heat from the engine. would get a replacement off the guarentee, get 12 months.

[Ian_D]

i would say dodgy came sensor, there are a few that go that way do to heat from the engine. would get a replacement off the guarentee, get 12 months.

Ive got a spare cam sensor, but wouldn't it show a code? also would that cause the fuel pump relay to click on and off randomly? 

[Welung666]

Isn't there 2 purple relays the same?

[Ian_D]

Isn't there 2 purple relays the same?

There is yeah. Its the one to the left of the two (as your looking at it from the front of the car)

[Ian_D]

Just been outside and re-read the codes....

00133 - Intake Manifold Valve 2 Voltage Low
Not present

00074 - Mass Air Flow Sensor Voltage High
Not present

00034 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Voltage High
Not present

00053 - Fuel Pump Relay Voltage Low
Not present

00033 - Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Voltage Low
Not present

No idea whats going on.

Any ideas? Thoughts?

Getting to the point where im thinking of getting rid now if im honest.  Its costing the earth in petrol, and im not going to spend £££'s on it converting it to LPG if it wont even run right on bloody petrol! :-/

[gstylebaby]

Have you tryed to give the m.a.f a good clean out may be its that and thats giving funny readings ever where else???

[pedroMV6]

From my experience with Carltons and Senators, I'd stick a new Fuel Pump Relay in first Ian.

On those, the FPR can bugger up al sorts of other circuits, from injector voltage to indicators flashing too fast.
Oh yes they can!!!

[Ian_D]

Have you tryed to give the m.a.f a good clean out may be its that and thats giving funny readings ever where else???

Its currently on its second MAF, changed it about 9 months ago along with the 1st crankshaft sensor!

I've got a 3rd which im going to fit tomorrow night which came from an Omega Estate which im breaking - so I know thats ok! 

[Ian_D]

From my experience with Carltons and Senators, I'd stick a new Fuel Pump Relay in first Ian.

On those, the FPR can bugger up al sorts of other circuits, from injector voltage to indicators flashing too fast.
Oh yes they can!!!

Will see if I've got another purple relay in my bag of bits, otherwise I will have to do a 15 mile round trip to the Estate for one 

Unless the TD's have any purple relays? That aint going anywhere at the moment!  (Another thing which is on my never ending 'To do' list!) 

[Ian_D]

Just thinking aloud here...

But how often do ECU's fail? Faulty / Dried out Capacitors? Or did the cheap crappy components not really exist back then?  :-?