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[sly62]

I bought my first 2nd hand Omega yesterday, a 2.0 16V CD on an N plate. 30 miles into the journey home it broke down and I had to have it recovered.

First off the oil level light began intermittantly coming on. About a mile later the same light stayed on permanently, and there was a cooling level warning on the central info display. At this point I stopped driving altogether, and when I got out & popped the bonnet to take a look, the engine was knocking quite badly.

Does anyone have any similar experiences, and know what the problem might be ? If it is a commonly known issue, do you know how much to fix it ? or have I just been taken for a mug by the person who sold it to me ?

I'm gutted, as I have been after an Omega for a while now, and the one I bought is clean as a whistle inside & out, & just the engine (or the seller) that has let the car down.

Thanks for your help,

Jody.

[TheBoy]

Do you mean oil pressure light on the dash, or a message on the info display?

[sly62]

Yeah, the red oil pressure light first, then a coolant level warning on the info display.

Thanks.

[TheBoy]

Hmmm, probably not a great idea to drive it with that on, and that may well explain the knocking noise 

[PhilRich]

Did you check the oil & coolant levels before you bought it/drove it home? When you eventually stopped, did you check the coolant level in the expansion tank, or the oil level (presumably after letting it stand for a bit)? :-/

[sly62]

Hi Philrich - thanks for taking the time to respond. The oil level was fine, and the water level was a bit low but not so much as to cause a problem.

Someone else has suggested to me that it could just require a new oil pump. Does this sound feasible ?

[Bixy1]

Oh dear, Sorry mate, sounds terminal to me, but there is a 2.0 16v engine for sale on this forum in the wanted/sell section if thats anygood.  :-/

[2woody]

oh dear - I'm sorry for you.

it'll definitely be new-engine time. A loud knocking signifies broken big-end bearings. You have to look at the failed parts and then beyiond that to the cause.

you will need at least a re-ground crankshaft and new bearings, plus probably one or a set of con-rods.

then you need to start looking at the cause, most likely are :-

someone having boiled it quite badly, causing the oil to break down and lose viscosity, hence the damage to the big ends.

someone running it with low oil level, thus starving the bearings

extremely long interval between oil changes.


either way, the most cost-effective remedy is a new engine. ( new to the car, anyway )

[pembsomega]

gutting for you mate

unfortunatly you pay your money and take your choice, unless it was a dealer of some sort?

i bought a 2.6 facelift few years back at auction, oil light came on on the way home, it came on and before i though 'oh dear' bits were escaping out the block and falling all over the m4.

once i got the car home on  inspection the engine was obv mullered as someone had needed to put mollyslip in with the oil, and im guessing it was ok for getting through the auction hall but it didnt last 15mins on the motorway. but my fault, i arrived late and really didnt check the car over as it was entering the hall when i got there.

i got a new engine new clutch, water pump and cam belt all done at local garage (i has no time) for around £600 (£400 engine) but then im good friends with the local indipendant garage, everyone should befriend a local garage, pop in make the tea, lend a hand share a joke, its a good laugh and when the time come you need work doing they are very light with the pen.......

[joshwyatt]

I've had exactly the same thing recently, but from the other point of view.
I'm a trader, I sold a 2.6 MV6...it was fine when it left me, we went out on a test drive, he bought it, he drove it home no problem. Then the next day he phoned to tell me the oil light had come on and he had continued to drive it. Subsequently discovered the engine is now seized bacause he contiunued to drive it.
I gave him a refund, and extra...so I was out of pocket, but I felt it the reasonable thing to do.
There are different ways to look at it, he had plenty of time to look over the vehicle, he test drove it. It was sold without warranty after trial. Technically it was tough for him, but you could argue that one would reasonably expect the vehicle to last longer.
What you need to establish is did the seller know about the defect? I didn't know of any issue with the MV6 I sold, it was driving perfectly and the engine was great. But, if you can prove the seller knew of anything wrong with it, that's where you can get something done.
Where was it purchased from? Private sale, trader, franchise (which is doubtful)?

[Kevin Wood]

Really sorry to hear this. I agree than an engine swap will probably be the best solution. The existing engine will have to come out for a complete strip down anyway, and with the price of 2nd hand engines, it doesn't really make financial sense.

There is a moral to these stories, although admittedly I'm shutting the door after the horse has bolted:

If the oil light comes on, stop the engine immediately.

Kevin

[TheBoy]

Really sorry to hear this. I agree than an engine swap will probably be the best solution. The existing engine will have to come out for a complete strip down anyway, and with the price of 2nd hand engines, it doesn't really make financial sense.

There is a moral to these stories, although admittedly I'm shutting the door after the horse has bolted:

If the oil light comes on, stop the engine immediately.

Kevin

and hope its soon enough!