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[JamesV6CDX]

Crank sensor....

Nope! Crank sensor is on 110k and is still going strong - I was expecting you to get it first time, Mr DTM

WTF? MrDTM was wrong???

**makes a note**

No, he wasn't wrong - based on the initial information it was the most likely suspect....

[Marks DTM Calib]

Crank sensor....

Nope! Crank sensor is on 110k and is still going strong - I was expecting you to get it first time, Mr DTM

WTF? MrDTM was wrong???

**makes a note**

Poor fault description.....plus the fact that the item bought is not the solution....  

[JamesV6CDX]

Crank sensor....

Nope! Crank sensor is on 110k and is still going strong - I was expecting you to get it first time, Mr DTM

WTF? MrDTM was wrong???

**makes a note**

Poor fault description.....plus the fact that the item bought is not the solution....  

Ok ok ok you....

Do you agree that it has helped HIGHLGHT and IDENTIFY the cause of the problem?  

[Marks DTM Calib]

Crank sensor....

Nope! Crank sensor is on 110k and is still going strong - I was expecting you to get it first time, Mr DTM

WTF? MrDTM was wrong???

**makes a note**

Poor fault description.....plus the fact that the item bought is not the solution....  

Ok ok ok you....

Do you agree that it has helped HIGHLGHT and IDENTIFY the cause of the problem?  

I would say its narrowed it down.

Poor battery leads dont cause flickering as they tend to simply have a slightly higher resistance which is reasonably constant....alternators with failed rectifiers can though.....or with poor internal connections (as per maintenance guide).

I would be checking charging voltage with an analogue meter at idle as a next step (fluctuations dont show well on digital ones)

[cem_devecioglu]

Interesting relation..

Though I changed the parts inside the alternator , I'll check the cable and battery also

[TheBoy]

I must go and buy a new battery for the MV6 (I knew it was knackered a year ago!), but I just can't face fatty on the parts dept at MK dealer.  And the battery is too heavy to get Mrs TheBoy to pick up from the much better Banbury dealer....

[Kevin Wood]

My reasoning is this. I rekon there is a poor connection in the alternator to battery positive+ cable. This is confirmed by the terminal getting hot and wire looks bad.

Hmm. Battery needed a jolt from the charger before it would start in my garage post-LPG fitting, then the +ve terminal got 'kin hot when it started...

The LPG ECU only read around 12.5v running, too, IIRC.

Can you remake the positive terminal with a new terminal - even as a temporary measure - or is the cable too far gone?

Wobbly battery voltage could explain a few of your LPG troubles I reckon.

Kevin

[JamesV6CDX]

My reasoning is this. I rekon there is a poor connection in the alternator to battery positive+ cable. This is confirmed by the terminal getting hot and wire looks bad.

Hmm. Battery needed a jolt from the charger before it would start in my garage post-LPG fitting, then the +ve terminal got 'kin hot when it started...

The LPG ECU only read around 12.5v running, too, IIRC.

Can you remake the positive terminal with a new terminal - even as a temporary measure - or is the cable too far gone?

Wobbly battery voltage could explain a few of your LPG troubles I reckon.

Kevin

I agree with all that, Kev. I'll try and fit a new terminal tomorrow.

Failing that, I'll ask the dealer about a new cable, and get the vaseline out

It's definately better since I've fitted the right battery.

The new Vx battery towers over the original - makes it look like it came off a fiesta!!

I also no longer get the dim battery light when heated seats on, since fitting the new battery.

I rekon I'll get away with fitting a new cable, and all will be well  8-) 8-)

[STMO123]

My reasoning is this. I rekon there is a poor connection in the alternator to battery positive+ cable. This is confirmed by the terminal getting hot and wire looks bad.

Hmm. Battery needed a jolt from the charger before it would start in my garage post-LPG fitting, then the +ve terminal got 'kin hot when it started...

The LPG ECU only read around 12.5v running, too, IIRC.

Can you remake the positive terminal with a new terminal - even as a temporary measure - or is the cable too far gone?

Wobbly battery voltage could explain a few of your LPG troubles I reckon.

Kevin

I agree with all that, Kev. I'll try and fit a new terminal tomorrow.

Failing that, I'll ask the dealer about a new cable, and get the vaseline out

It's definately better since I've fitted the right battery.

The new Vx battery towers over the original - makes it look like it came off a fiesta!!

I also no longer get the dim battery light when heated seats on, since fitting the new battery.

I rekon I'll get away with fitting a new cable, and all will be well  8-) 8-)

Are they that expensive?

[x25xe]

Did you not post up about the dim alternator warning light with HRW and heated seats switched on before?

It is amazing the difference a decent battery makes though - my car ran much better when I put a new battery on.

[JamesV6CDX]

My reasoning is this. I rekon there is a poor connection in the alternator to battery positive+ cable. This is confirmed by the terminal getting hot and wire looks bad.

Hmm. Battery needed a jolt from the charger before it would start in my garage post-LPG fitting, then the +ve terminal got 'kin hot when it started...

The LPG ECU only read around 12.5v running, too, IIRC.

Can you remake the positive terminal with a new terminal - even as a temporary measure - or is the cable too far gone?

Wobbly battery voltage could explain a few of your LPG troubles I reckon.

Kevin

I agree with all that, Kev. I'll try and fit a new terminal tomorrow.

Failing that, I'll ask the dealer about a new cable, and get the vaseline out

It's definately better since I've fitted the right battery.

The new Vx battery towers over the original - makes it look like it came off a fiesta!!

I also no longer get the dim battery light when heated seats on, since fitting the new battery.

I rekon I'll get away with fitting a new cable, and all will be well  8-) 8-)

Are they that expensive?

Who knows - but this IS Vauxhall!

[Kevin Wood]

Check the voltage across the battery at a fast idle with no load on and then with a few loads on and see what's going on.

Also, see if you can get a voltage reading between the positive terminal and the strands of wire going into the crimp connection. Might tell you if you're dropping volts at that connection.

If the terminal is getting hot that's a sure sign that all is not well.

Kevin

[Taxi_Driver]

Crank sensor....

Nope! Crank sensor is on 110k and is still going strong - I was expecting you to get it first time, Mr DTM

WTF? MrDTM was wrong???

**makes a note**

Poor fault description.....plus the fact that the item bought is not the solution....  

Ok ok ok you....

Do you agree that it has helped HIGHLGHT and IDENTIFY the cause of the problem?  

I would say its narrowed it down.

Poor battery leads dont cause flickering as they tend to simply have a slightly higher resistance which is reasonably constant....alternators with failed rectifiers can though.....or with poor internal connections (as per maintenance guide).

I would be checking charging voltage with an analogue meter at idle as a next step (fluctuations dont show well on digital ones)

I agree with Mark.....it depends what you mean by flickering.....flickering in my book means slightly brighter and dimmer than normal......under no change of load.
For example slight dimming of dash lights at idle in time with indicators going on off with headlinglights on.........would be perfectly normal.
Increasing brightness would not be............

[JamesV6CDX]

Crank sensor....

Nope! Crank sensor is on 110k and is still going strong - I was expecting you to get it first time, Mr DTM

WTF? MrDTM was wrong???

**makes a note**

Poor fault description.....plus the fact that the item bought is not the solution....  

Ok ok ok you....

Do you agree that it has helped HIGHLGHT and IDENTIFY the cause of the problem?  

I would say its narrowed it down.

Poor battery leads dont cause flickering as they tend to simply have a slightly higher resistance which is reasonably constant....alternators with failed rectifiers can though.....or with poor internal connections (as per maintenance guide).

I would be checking charging voltage with an analogue meter at idle as a next step (fluctuations dont show well on digital ones)

I agree with Mark.....it depends what you mean by flickering.....flickering in my book means slightly brighter and dimmer than normal......under no change of load.
For example slight dimming of dash lights at idle in time with indicators going on off with headlinglights on.........would be perfectly normal.
Increasing brightness would not be............

I agree with the logic but, after fitting a new battery, all symptoms are gone, incl poor LPG idle, so we're definately barking up the right tree now

[Kevin Wood]

I guess if the battery was poor, or in a poor state of charge, varying electrical load would cause flickering (in the absence of the full alternator output being available) due to higher internal resistance of the battery, so yes, the battery has cured the flickering for one of those reasons, but I still suspect the root cause is either a dodgy connection at the battery terminal (where the alternator output connects, placing resistance in series with the alternator output) or a problem with the alternator giving poor or fluctuating output.

The positive terminal was suspect when we fitted the LPG so that's the first thing to address IMHO.

Kevin