Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[I_want_an_Omega]

I'm attempting to change the cambelt on my '98 V6 and have discovred that its got an EB marked tensioner casting, wheras I've got an 01 kit  :-?

Its my fault, I didn't check the engine number range before buying.

Question is, can I swap the tensioner and centre ider from the 01 block onto the EB one? It looks possible.

The other difference is that the lower idler bolt is longer than that supplied with my (GM) kit, so I guess I could re-use the old bolt. The lower ider is also a lot lower down than on my other car - right next to the crank pully in fact - any comments on that please.

Any other thoughts folks?

Thanks ........... Rob

[TestOmega]

I have been planning on changing mine as well.  I done lot of reading and the gist of it is that the pulley sizes have not changed just their locations.  I am definitely interested in knowing if you are successful in renewing the tesioner on the assembly by itself and any issues or redeploying the seals, bolts, etc.

Regards and good luck.

[I_want_an_Omega]

The problem is that my car has an engine which was just before the change. The parts all look ok, but I'm waiting for the voice of experience here

[TestOmega]

The problem is that my car has an engine which was just before the change. The parts all look ok, but I'm waiting for the voice of experience here

An excerpt from Haynes if it helps,

"Refitting
Note: There are two different types of timing
belt and tensioner assembly available for this
engine and it is essential that the timing belt is
of the correct type for the tensioner. A
modified tensioner assembly and timing belt
were fitted as standard to later (1997 on
model year) engines, enabling the belt
renewal interval on these engines to be
extended to 80 000 miles or 8 years. The
modified tensioner assembly can be identified
by checking the letter stamped on the
tensioner pulley/upper guide roller backplate;
the original tensioner is marked with D and
the modified assembly marking has an E in it
(EA or EB) (see illustration 7.15). It is most
important to check the tensioner backplate
marking before ordering a timing belt since
the modified tensioner and belt can also be
installed on early (pre 1997 model year)
engines to enable the timing belt renewal
interval to be extended. See your Vauxhall
dealer for further details."

Hope it helps.

[Elite Pete]

Use the new tensioner/idlers on the old back plate but check the old back plate for any damage first

[Kevin Wood]

.. and bear in mind that the Haynes manual is wrong. The extension to 80k miles ended in tears and it was swiftly abandoned. All Omega belts are 40k/4 years.

Kevin

[Andy H]

Use the new tensioner/idlers on the old back plate but check the old back plate for any damage first

The back plate has threaded bolt holes for the engine mount on a wrong wheel drive car. I'm guessing that damage is probable/possible if the engine mount is hanging off it but unlikely in the Omega.........

[I_want_an_Omega]

Thanks guys, I'm well aware of the 80k mile issue, and will now go and swap things onto the old backplate - which is in good condition.

Any comments about the lower idler, I'll have to re-use the old bolt as none of the new ones are long enough.

The lower ider is very close the crank pulley, still I guess I'm not the first person to have come across this issue.

[Elite Pete]

Use the new tensioner/idlers on the old back plate but check the old back plate for any damage first

The back plate has threaded bolt holes for the engine mount on a wrong wheel drive car. I'm guessing that damage is probable/possible if the engine mount is hanging off it but unlikely in the Omega.........

Too true, but it cost nothing to check

[Andy H]

Use the new tensioner/idlers on the old back plate but check the old back plate for any damage first

The back plate has threaded bolt holes for the engine mount on a wrong wheel drive car. I'm guessing that damage is probable/possible if the engine mount is hanging off it but unlikely in the Omega.........

Too true, but it cost nothing to check

Agreed

I'm just glad I have finally understood why the cambelt kit includes a replacement for the massive understressed bracket every time

Just one more thing that only makes sense when the V6 is dropped into a wrong wheel drive car

[TestOmega]

Use the new tensioner/idlers on the old back plate but check the old back plate for any damage first

Elite Pete I am driving the "wrong wheel drive car", it is the rear left.

I am collecting parts and trying to prevent the predicament of our friend who started this thread.  You guys are so knowledgeable and I have started to work on my car to avoid "stealer dealers".  I do recognize that one of the questions may be pending comment from above posts by Lincs Robert,

"Any comments about the lower idler, I'll have to re-use the old bolt as none of the new ones are long enough."

So in a nutshell all the pulleys can be renewed if there is no damage to the bracket.  I am little curious also if there are any seals that need to be replaced when you take the bracket off for remounting it back.

Regards and I shall stay mum!

[I_want_an_Omega]

Hi,

Come on - update your details to tell us where you are located.

It's Lincs BTW (not Lings) - short for Lincolnshire 

The pulleys aren't reused, just the casting block which they mount onto. There are no seals involved.

Get your engine number from your car's paperwork and we can advise which kit you need. I've been lucky and got one complete unused kit for about $100 including the water pump and aux belt, and a 2nd kit for $60 - but I had to buy the pump & aux belt separately 

Did you know that although the Catera was built in Germany that the V6 engines are English? The auto gearbox is French built.

You will need a cam locking kit also - dont attempt the job without it.

[I_want_an_Omega]

I've also just realised that as your car is a 2001 model that you wont have this problem. The car I'm having the problem with now is a '98, but I also have a '99 which is ok. So, a 2001 model will not be a problem in the lower idler area and will have an 01 casting. 

[TestOmega]

I've also just realised that as your car is a 2001 model that you wont have this problem. The car I'm having the problem with now is a '98, but I also have a '99 which is ok. So, a 2001 model will not be a problem in the lower idler area and will have an 01 casting. 

I just bought the following from a gentleman in UK for shipping to me and a note in his clarification to me when I asked what was printed on the cast,

"EB, it was on my 1994 model though i believe the pulleys were modified and this is the modified one Thanks"

The actual description is in this eBay listing that I bought from,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320552080800

He had just installed and taken it after 300 miles after his gaskets blew so it was listed as near new.

Any comments appreciated in case I bought the wrong piece.

Regards.

[Elite Pete]

I've also just realised that as your car is a 2001 model that you wont have this problem. The car I'm having the problem with now is a '98, but I also have a '99 which is ok. So, a 2001 model will not be a problem in the lower idler area and will have an 01 casting. 

I just bought the following from a gentleman in UK for shipping to me and a note in his clarification to me when I asked what was printed on the cast,

"EB, it was on my 1994 model though i believe the pulleys were modified and this is the modified one Thanks"

The actual description is in this eBay listing that I bought from,

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320552080800

He had just installed and taken it after 300 miles after his gaskets blew so it was listed as near new.

Any comments appreciated in case I bought the wrong piece.

Regards.

I really, really wouldn't use a secondhand cambelt kit. How do you know he's telling the truth, it could be 10 years old.