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[Entwood]

Wow I can understand how people get upset on this forum 

I have been a member for quite a while but haven't really actively posted due to work commitments etc.

Perhaps its a given on the omega if this fault code appears, but I would never replace a component without first proving its faulty.

Apologies for crashing the thread. 

IMHO it has been proved to be faulty ... code 19, engine underpowered.

It is one of the few "stoppers" to the V6. I even carry a spare one in the boot  ... Mr Green Flag might have to supply some tools .. but I won't be stuck .. again ..

I'm not sure how you would go further in "proving" it is at fault

Not so long ago I stopped to help someone in a car park .. the AA were going to relay the car 200 odd miles and were indicating the engine was "beyond repair" ... I persuaded them to go 3 miles down the road and get a new part, then told the guy how to reroute the cable.

An hour after I stopped the car drove away.

[3.0V6]

As I say perhaps its a given on the Omega, I would agree on a non start its the first port of call perhaps after the immobilser.

I am a technical specialist for a company that produce oscilloscopes for automotive diagnostics, so I am used to seeing any faults with a component, before replacement.

Would love to get my hands on this faulty sensor, I would then happily show you the difference in output.

Hope thats useful.

[Darth Loo-knee]

As I say perhaps its a given on the Omega, I would agree on a non start its the first port of call perhaps after the immobilser.

I am a technical specialist for a company that produce oscilloscopes for automotive diagnostics, so I am used to seeing any faults with a component, before replacement.

Would love to get my hands on this faulty sensor, I would then happily show you the difference in output.

Hope thats useful.

That would be rather interesting I think

[Entwood]

As I say perhaps its a given on the Omega, I would agree on a non start its the first port of call perhaps after the immobilser.

I am a technical specialist for a company that produce oscilloscopes for automotive diagnostics, so I am used to seeing any faults with a component, before replacement.

Would love to get my hands on this faulty sensor, I would then happily show you the difference in output.

Hope thats useful.

I accept what you say .. and given the right kit most things are "testable" ..however, this fault WILL stop the car.. DEAD. and if it happens in the wrong place you are STUCK.

So if it is playing up, starting to fail, being stupid, whatever words you wish ... it is, for the sake of £40 .. worth changing.

You don't wait until the engine seizes to change the oil ... preventative maintenance has a place as well.

Just my thoughts .. nowt else ..

[3.0V6]

I reckon so too Daz, got the head gaskets and manifolds done and all running lovely,  bodykit and LPG swap over still to do - will drop by soon 

[Darth Loo-knee]

I reckon so too Daz, got the head gaskets and manifolds done and all running lovely,  bodykit and LPG swap over still to do - will drop by soon 

Will put the kettle on then

[dbug]

Wow I can understand how people get upset on this forum 

I have been a member for quite a while but haven't really actively posted due to work commitments etc.

Perhaps its a given on the omega if this fault code appears, but I would never replace a component without first proving its faulty.

Apologies for crashing the thread. 

Sorry - not being funny mate - but your advice is wrong - code 19 proves it to be faulty. 

Unfortunately we have had a run on here of incorrect advice being given (Rustym95 and his other alias) and incorrect advice may cause other OOFers  grief and extra costs.  Suggest if you're unsure that your advice is 100%, say so in your post otherwise it may be taken as gospel.

No offence intended!!

[3.0V6]

I agree Entwood, without the right equipment its the only sensible option and very good advice.

However I don't think resetting the code and checking it reappears is bad advice either.

Enough said I think 

[CaptainZok]

A failing CS will rear it's ugly head soon enough if you clear the code, proving it's not an old stored code.
If the sensor hasn't failed completely the 19 shows as not present so it's an easy job to clear and prove faulty when it reappears.

[Entwood]

I agree Entwood, without the right equipment its the only sensible option and very good advice.

However I don't think resetting the code and checking it reappears is bad advice either.

Enough said I think 

Agreed .. but one last thing to add .. not really relevant to this thread .. but as background.

The crank sensor failing can do so without giving a code 19 on many occasions, or the code comes and goes. The way the codes are stored .. if the CS is starting to fail it may give a code one day .. then work fine for several starts, so clearing the code. Then it fails completely. It may well not give a code then.. as 0 RPM is NOT an incorrect RPM .. the ecu just thinks the engine is stationary !!!

it is not wholly satisfactory .. but history shows this is the case.. and a CS change usually sorts it ..

as you said .. enough said now ..

EDIT .. what Captain Zok says is correct, if you use a code reader ... for those using the "paperclip" method it is less clear cut ..

[3.0V6]

OK so what code would be produced if the phonic wheel that the crank sensor is looking at had a damaged tooth???

Please don't say my advice is wrong.

The fault code is saying incorrect rpm, this could be produced for many reasons if you think about it a little.

Sorry not so good on these forums should be quoting dbug here.

[black beauty]

OK guys seems to be getting plenty of advice here, have had problems starting the car and sounded rough almost like it was starting after having the battery removed and wiped everything from the ecu, and also down on power when driving, have just had a gear box change done as it wasnt shifting up quickly enough to top gear, by the way anybody got a link for the refitting of the new crank sensor as i know it runs round the side of the gearbox bellhousing on the oil cooler pipes, bet you never thought i was under my car as much for a 40kg girl i can pull my weight, Kack 

PS if i get the old sensor off do you want to have it for test purposes cheers Kack

[CaptainZok]

I'd be guessing a normal CS output would be square wave ish with an elongated space at TDC going off the cutouts on the wheel. So wheel damage would give more long space pulses maybe.
But wouldn't you then get a similar signal with a wire on the sensor intermittently shorting out?

[CaptainZok]

OK guys seems to be getting plenty of advice here, have had problems starting the car and sounded rough almost like it was starting after having the battery removed and wiped everything from the ecu, and also down on power when driving, have just had a gear box change done as it wasnt shifting up quickly enough to top gear, by the way anybody got a link for the refitting of the new crank sensor as i know it runs round the side of the gearbox bellhousing on the oil cooler pipes, bet you never thought i was under my car as much for a 40kg girl i can pull my weight, Kack 

PS if i get the old sensor off do you want to have it for test purposes cheers Kack

If it's the original the factory routing means it's an absolute pig to remove without cutting the end off.
Follow Mark's guide in the maintainance section and reroute it up the inner wing behind the brake lines.

[3.0V6]

I'd be guessing a normal CS output would be square wave ish with an elongated space at TDC going off the cutouts on the wheel. So wheel damage would give more long space pulses maybe.
But wouldn't you then get a similar signal with a wire on the sensor intermittently shorting out?

Nearly, you would think it would be square because the teeth are, however the teeth actually produce triangular peaks if that makes sense, correct on the missing tooth producing a gap.  If people are interested I could post an example, if I can remember my password for images  :-/