Ok, further clarification
Wishbone bolt tightening
it's two fold, the tightening as described in Haynes as said, but.....
This needs to be done with the wheels loaded/car on the ground with suspension correctly settled to insure the wishbone arms sit at the correct ride hight before the bolts are fully tightened. This is to insure that the subframe bracket clamps the centre spacer of the bush in an unstressed position, hence they will last longer.
If the bolts are tightened wheels hanging, while jacked, with suspension fully extended, when the car is dropped off the Jack and suspension compressed/wishbone angle raised, the bush rubber will be stressed permanently. The more the suspension is compressed and the more the bushes stressed the shorter the life. Add in cornering and hiiting a hefty bump, your asking the bush to twist itself over the full length of suspension travel, as opposed to from the midway/neutral start position when set with the suspension loaded at the correct ride hight.
This is a pita to do on the drive as any torque wrench with that range will be too long to swing under the car as the floor is in the way. So, it's possible to tighten as much as possible with the car on the ground, enough for the subframe to clamp the bush centre spacer and hold it there while you re Jack and compete the procedure.
Then set the camber.
Hth