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Author Topic: Rear brake pad seized solid  (Read 1649 times)

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markfree

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Rear brake pad seized solid
« on: 22 August 2010, 19:34:43 »

As above - tried all day saturday to remove but gave up in the end.

It's the inboard o/s pad which has stuck causing the caliper piston not too operate as the outboard pad is nearly worn down to it's limit - anyone had this problem?

Don't really want to take the caliper off as the brake pipe union to caliper nut is seized in solid and I would almost certainly round the nut if I persisted in un-doing it.

Any solutions to this problem would be appreciated :y
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hotel21

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #1 on: 22 August 2010, 19:48:59 »

Sounds like I am kinda quoting the obvious but...

Confirmed that yopu have tried clever application of levers, clever clouts with a lump hammer etc?  I know there is a slide hammer type affair that hooks into the locating pin holes that may allow the pad to be released but, that said, i find its better to ensure the pad/piston is levered back at least a wee bit, before trying that.
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Andy B

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #2 on: 22 August 2010, 19:50:43 »

Quote
As above - tried all day saturday to remove but gave up in the end.

It's the inboard o/s pad which has stuck causing the caliper piston not too operate as the outboard pad is nearly worn down to it's limit - anyone had this problem?

Don't really want to take the caliper off as the brake pipe union to caliper nut is seized in solid and I would almost certainly round the nut if I persisted in un-doing it.

Any solutions to this problem would be appreciated :y

without taking the caliper off, all I could suggest is Plusgas/similar on the contact point bewtween the pad & the caliper, let it soak in for as long as you can ....... then beat the living **** out of the pad using a drift & big hammer  ;D  ;D  ;D  ;D
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Andy B

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #3 on: 22 August 2010, 19:54:46 »

Quote
....
  I know there is a slide hammer type affair that hooks into the locating pin holes  ....

 ;) :y :y

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Kneepad

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #4 on: 22 August 2010, 19:57:05 »

Don't see why you have to undo the bake pipe union to take the caliper off.
 :-?
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hotel21

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #5 on: 22 August 2010, 19:57:32 »

Quote
Quote
....
  I know there is a slide hammer type affair that hooks into the locating pin holes  ....

 ;) :y :y


cheers Andy.  never had to use one yet, always managed to lever and 'persuade' recalcitrant pads to break free eventually....  ;)
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hotel21

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #6 on: 22 August 2010, 19:58:32 »

Quote
Don't see why you have to undo the bake pipe union to take the caliper off.
 :-?

i certainly wouldn't as I think it creates undue strain on the pipework when you are fiddling with the non moving pad.  Alwats better to have it afixed to the solid hub, in my experience....
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Andy B

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #7 on: 22 August 2010, 20:01:56 »

Quote
....
cheers Andy.  never had to use one yet, always managed to lever and 'persuade' recalcitrant pads to break free eventually....  ;)

Niether have I ..... I've done the same as you. But I have seen a slide hammer extractor.  :y
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CaptainZok

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #8 on: 22 August 2010, 20:02:25 »

BFH and a drift to persuade it to move.
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hotel21

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #9 on: 22 August 2010, 20:03:04 »

Quote
BFH and a drift to persuade it to move.

[size=18]SAMMY!!!!![/size]  Come hither....   :D
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Kneepad

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #10 on: 22 August 2010, 20:05:11 »

Quote
Quote
Don't see why you have to undo the bake pipe union to take the caliper off.
 :-?

i certainly wouldn't as I think it creates undue strain on the pipework when you are fiddling with the non moving pad.  Alwats better to have it afixed to the solid hub, in my experience....

Maybe I was just lucky then. New discs and pads on front and new pads and shoes on rear and not a drop of fluid spilled.   All four calipers were removed, I was of course aware not to strain the rigid pipes.
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CaptainZok

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #11 on: 22 August 2010, 20:05:13 »

Quote
Quote
BFH and a drift to persuade it to move.

[size=18]SAMMY!!!!![/size]  Come hither....   :D

The Gnome's favourite tool. Slap on of course though. ;D ;D
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Teebee

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #12 on: 22 August 2010, 21:33:18 »

Silly question but you have unscrewed the reservoir lid? Years back I spent an eon trying to compress a piston on a MK1 granny, I hadn't undone the lid and the fluid was under pressure against the air in the top of the reservoir. Unscrew lid and it pushed in by hand  ::)
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markfree

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #13 on: 22 August 2010, 22:43:25 »

Cheers for all the replies  :y

A few mis-conceptions I will clear up :-

I mean't remove the caliper away from the car and put it on a work-bench. I had the caliper off and tried levering pad out but ,as h21 said, was putting too much strain on brake-pipe.

Don't want to use plus-gas as I read on here that oil-based products can rot the rubber seals.

Used a chisel to try and lever out but wouldn't move - caliper piston seems ok (not seized).

Anyway my plan of action is as follows :-

Plan A
-------
Buy the slide hammer affair that Andy B wrote about - thanks for that :y

If that fails

Plan B
-------
Hacksaw thru the brake-pipe - get the caliper on the bench and sammy the pad out.
That leaves me with the problem of the rounded brake-pipe union nuts - hopefully a nut splitter will do the job and get them off without damaging the threads; then fit new brake-pipe.

If plan B fails :-

Plan C
-------
Dump it at nearest garage for them to fix :'(
Anybody got an alternative to Plan C :question


Anyways thanks for all the suggestions - I'll let you know, in due-course, which plan was successfull :y
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hotel21

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Re: Rear brake pad seized solid
« Reply #14 on: 22 August 2010, 23:06:12 »

Still recon that clever use of a screwdriver or lever between pad and disc to push the pad back against the piston would work.  Movement inwards/outwards (axially) will gradually get the pad moving.  Once started, leverage between the hub and pad (i.e. fore and aft or car front to back) will get it free from the caliper.

repeated applications of movement in opposite directions will get the deed done such that you should be able to exert levereage via a screwdriver or long pin punch type implement between the pad pin mounting holes and the disc itself to ensure the pad gets moved out from the caliper to enable it to be replaced.

As others have said, not had to resort to a pad puller as yet, perseverance id certainly the key....   :y
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