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[VX1]

inlet manifolds still attached?
Nope, inlet manifolds removed.turned over fine before old belt was removed?

Engine turned over manually before cambelt was removed.

if the timing did not move between removing and refitting the belt.. i would check for a foreign object in the chambers.

Engine has been covered for the entire time so no foriegn objects plus the inlets have been covered as well.

[Jinglemaster2]

OK. Just to clarify, you don't move the timning back 60 degrees to fit the belt. Only because of the situation you are currently in. Once the timing is -60 you can then safely let the cams move. That is where you remove the belt having slackened it off. BUT WATCH YOUR FINGERS.

then line up all 4 cams THEN turn crank back to TDC.

Now refit the belt starting from the crank and going anticlockwise. You will be left with slack on the left side as you look from the front, that is when you finally fit the tensioner to take that up.

[PhilRich]

inlet manifolds still attached?
Nope, inlet manifolds removed.turned over fine before old belt was removed?

Engine turned over manually before cambelt was removed.

if the timing did not move between removing and refitting the belt.. i would check for a foreign object in the chambers.

Those bloody illegal immigrants will try ANYTHING to get into the UK!

[VX1]

OK. Just to clarify, you don't move the timning back 60 degrees to fit the belt. Only because of the situation you are currently in. Once the timing is -60 you can then safely let the cams move. That is where you remove the belt having slackened it off. BUT WATCH YOUR FINGERS.

then line up all 4 cams THEN turn crank back to TDC.

Now refit the belt starting from the crank and going anticlockwise. You will be left with slack on the left side as you look from the front, that is when you finally fit the tensioner to take that up.

Must confess I didn't do that Oooppss!! Now the belt is off is it best to put the belt back on then start again?

[Jinglemaster2]

I am getting a little confused. Let me just check some facts.

1. When you originally fitted the new belt, you lined up the crank at TDC, locked the crack then locked the cams before removing the old tensioner and belt.

2. You then fitted the new built (we now know incorrectly) before turning the crank and finding it stopped by something (piston touching valves).

3. You then wound the crank back and removed the belt? Did you remove the belt with the crank at TDC and the cams not locked? If so you will now have bent valves most likely.

[Jinglemaster2]

Just to clairfy what I just wrote.

If you let the cams turn under their own spring pressure with the crank NOT at neutral, ie you do this with the crank incorrectly at TDC the strength of the valve springs is such that the cam will spin around with great force and is certainly enough to bend the valve that hits the piston. This is the exact reason why you need the pistons NOT at TDC if you do this.

Now, it doesn't mean that a valve IS bent, but it is highly likely that you may have bent a valve, chipped the piston, or damaged a valve guide if you did this with the crank at TDC.

I suggest NOT doing anything more until we clarify what you have done.

If you locked the cams, then no harm will be done. But if you removed the belt without locking the cams and they spun with the crank at TDc you will have damaged it.

[VX1]

I am getting a little confused. Let me just check some facts.

1. When you originally fitted the new belt, you lined up the crank at TDC, locked the crack then locked the cams before removing the old tensioner and belt. Correct

2. You then fitted the new belt (we now know incorrectly) before turning the crank and finding it stopped by something (piston touching valves). Correct

3. You then wound the crank back and removed the belt? Did you remove the belt with the crank at TDC and the cams not locked? If so you will now have bent valves most likely.

[/highlight]
Cams were Locked Crank back to TDC. Moved crank back by hand NOT turning over by key (as engine is out of car)

[Jinglemaster2]

Ok, so if the crank and cams were locked and you have removed the belt, you now need to get everything lined up.

1. Turn crank by hand genttly back 60degrees. Check with a plastic straw through each plug hole that teh pistons are all NOT at TDC.

2. Then remove the cam locks - dangerous bit healthwise. Fingers!

3. Then line each cam up with the backplate. This can be very frustrating because the cams will often jump around to the next lobe just as you were about to get it. AGain, I cannot emphasise enough FINGERS. Be particularly careful of doing the seond cam in a pair ie 3&4 or 1&2, because whilst you do teh second, the first can sudeenly spring around. Fingers again!

4. Once a pair is lined up, lock them with teh cam lock and do the other pair.

5. Once all 4 cams are lined up and locked, turn the crank gently CLOCKWISE toi TDC and lock it also.

6. Belt on. under tha crank and wedge left side of it then up to 1st guide, onto cam 4, onto cam 3, under 2nd guide, onto cam 2, onto cam 1 and job almost done. Then keeping the belt pushed towards the right, fit the tensioner. Finally check and adjust guides/tensioner as usual.

Before you do anything else, make 100% certain that the belt is tight on the right side. The crank pulls on cam 4. The rest follows. The tension is all on the right side as the engine turns clockwise.

Once all lined up and you are happy, remove all locks and turn it gently 2 x clockwise. Then lock everything up again and checko markings. Go by the markings on the SPECTACLE not the backplate. The cam tool is very acurate.

[VX1]

Ok thanks thats great. What if the cams are already lined up with the cutouts on the back plate, do I still need to refit the belt and move back 60 degrees then lock it all up and follow your procedure?
Just to clarify so I get it right.

[Jinglemaster2]

Oh no. Not at all.

What you need before fitting the belt is for the cams to all be lined up with the markings ideally on the spectacle tool, if not on the back plate AND the crank to be at TDC. If that is already the case, then no problem. That is the hardest bit done.

ps... if you want to PM me your landline, I will gladly clarify any concerns.

[VX1]

Ok thanks McB, I will give it a go. Wish me luck. 

[Dishevelled Den]

Yes, good luck VX   What a fascinating thread this has been. 8-) 8-)

[VX1]

Just to let you all know, I re-done the crankshaft back to it's timing mark then moved it a further 15 degress to a neutral position. Moved the camshafts round by 1 revolution, in turn, to there rective marks on the camcover backing plate, then checked with the camshaft timing gauge and all back to spot on and locked with cam locks, must point out that I did lock the crankshaft with the locking tool, moved the crankshaft back to TDC then re-fitted the belt clockwise not anticlockwise.
  Once I had done this and tensioned the belt I then turned the engine over, by hand, for 2 revolutions until the cams were back in alignment, which happened first time  . Engine did not lock once so a nice pat on the back for me plus first time I had fitted and timed a V6 cambelt by myself and I did not use the V6 dvd.

 So three cheers for me,
Hip, Hip Horay!
Hip, Hip Horay!
Hip, Hip Horay!

[Proz]

Nice one 

[Kneepad]

 So three cheers for me,
Hip, Hip Horay!
Hip, Hip Horay!
Hip, Hip Horay!

Well done VX1,  I think a few cheers for RonaldMcBurger2 are also in order.