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[Malcolm_D]

Anyone know how to remove the aircon pipe which runs from the bulkhead under the ABS unit and under the battery shelf on a 2.6 V6, I need to get it off but cannot see how without removing lots of bits.

[Malcolm_D]

I take it from the lack of response that it is either impossible or an unusual request.

OK a different tack - if I cannot get it out would it be possible to cut through the pipe and remove it from either end then re-use the metal ends of the pipe and replace the centre rubber hose part?

Another thought would be to have a metal aircon pipe made up which takes a different route?

You may have noticed that I am grasping at straws!!

Would those nice people at VX be able to tell me how it can be removed? 

[Andy H]

Have a look at the parts list on this site http://www.gmpartsgiant.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?modelYear=2001&model=Catera&make=Cadillac&catalogCode=65V&modelCode=6VR69&seriesCode=6VR&bodyStyleCode=69&engineCode=L81&transCode=ML4&majorIndexID=09&isBigPicture=False&isDisplay=False&minorIndexID=OV0900601

Which part are you trying to shift?

[Brikhead]

Why do you need to take them off?

As it happens I have recently removed those, and the auto box pipes, even with most of the engine bay stripped they were still tricky to remove. They are one of the first things installed at the factory, so everything else goes in on top of them.

[Malcolm_D]

From the link provided by Andy H the pipe I am trying to remove is part 12.

It runs from the bottom connection coming out of the bulkhead, disappears under the ABS unit running on top of the chassis leg, it reappears under the battery shelf and connects to a double pipe connection. The pipe itself is metal at both ends and appears to have a rubber middle section.

I want to get it off as I think that it may be the cause of my aircon leak, I took the car to Kwikfit to have it regassed but they could not do the job as the fluid and dye was leaking out, the top of the chassis leg was awash with the stuff. I can only think that this pipe is the culprit, where else could it be coming from?

[raywilb]

noticed you live in york. i changed one of mine earlier this year. it wasn,t too bad. you will probably have to remove the two torx bolts 22 + 23. if you pm me i,ll give an hand, 

[Malcolm_D]

Bolts 22 and 23 are a doddle, better actually to remove pipe at joint 13. The problem is how do you then get the damn thing (part 12) out from under all of the other components squashed into this area? Did you get yours off in one piece? Thanks for the offer of help by the way.

[Kaycee]

may sound daft but could you not fabricate a new pipe and bypass that one leave it in
 

[Malcolm_D]

Could do, I think I have already suggested this as an answer apart from leaving the original in place. To be honest getting the old one out is not a problem providing I accept that it will be coming out in bits! What could I fabricate it out of? Is the pipe/hose under significant pressure?
I am also a bit of a perfectionist and it goes against the grain to have to settle for a solution which changes the car from the original specification. I also do not know that this pipe is definitely the culprit, without getting it out I cannot be sure, sod's law if I cut it up to get it out I will find that it is (or was) perfect and the leak is coming from elsewhere!
I am going to visit a breakers yard this weekend and try to do some investigating on a scrapper rather than on my pride & joy. 

[raywilb]

i replaced the complete pipe, it was easier than trying to split it. i had to go up to durham to take one off a scrapper, if you,re after a s/hand a one at least there is a few around york,  also " Tweetspeed" in heworth is good for a re-gas. does it right. cheaper too. offer still stands

[Malcolm_D]

Update.
After a lot of research on scrap miggies at my local breakers I found that to remove the offending aircon pipe i would have to lift the mount for the ABS unit - looks like a pig of a job. Even after doing this getting the pipe off would be almost impossible as both ends have lots of bends making it a nightmare to get them through cluttered small openings.
I came away from the breakers with both ends of the pipe but with the middle flexy part cut through, my plan is to buy some hydraulic flexy pipe and slide it into position from one end before fixing it to one of the metal ends with two jubilee clips, the other metal end will already be fixed on.
Having cut the original pipe, which I suspected of leaking, and removed it I was dismayed to see that it looked leak free. However on looking closer I found a couple of pinholes at one of the bends, these had not been caused by rubbing as first thought but looked more like poor quality alloy that had deteriorated over the years.
I will let you know if my fix works. 

[Malcolm_D]

I don't why I am doing this - maybe others will be interested  :-/

Update - called in at a local hydraulic engineers to buy some suitable heavy duty hose for the 'fix'. Spoke to a guy there who sounded like he knew what he was on about. In his opinion I have no chance of creating a leak free repair, the pressure will be too high for the jubilee clip joints to hold, the hose has to have some element of permeability and the molecules in the refrigerant are so amall they will escape too easily!!! His opinion was that i had to replace it with a genuine part.

Comments anyone?  :-/

[Ian_D]

Will the pipe be the same on a 1997 2.5 CDX Omega? If so (providing I havn't damaged it) I will have the pipe on the Estate which im breaking.

Im in York too! WOOOO!

[CaptainZok]

I don't why I am doing this - maybe others will be interested  :-/

Update - called in at a local hydraulic engineers to buy some suitable heavy duty hose for the 'fix'. Spoke to a guy there who sounded like he knew what he was on about. In his opinion I have no chance of creating a leak free repair, the pressure will be too high for the jubilee clip joints to hold, the hose has to have some element of permeability and the molecules in the refrigerant are so amall they will escape too easily!!! His opinion was that i had to replace it with a genuine part.

Comments anyone?  :-/

Think I'd be inclined to agree with him. You get up to 300 PSI in a working aircon system.

[Malcolm_D]

Should be the same, how far have you got with breaking it or are you doing it bit by bit? Forgive the ignorance I have never 'broken' a car before they always seem to break themselves.