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[V6 CDX-er]

I'm still waiting for my Haynes book of lies to turn up from the slow eBay seller, so have only been able to have a quick search online.

Could anyone of you chaps confirm the wheel nut torque settings please? I have only managed to find two bits of info, both conflicting.

One says 110 lb/ft  whilst the other, (I suspect more accurate), states 81 lb/ft.

Could anyone confirm please?

Cheers 

[Dave Elite]

its 110 nm

[feeutfo]

I believe 110 nm which equates to about 81fti/b.....i think....?

[Dave Elite]

110 nm is  81.12 lb ft

[V6 CDX-er]

Cheers Dave.

Just had a look at a conversion chart and 110 NM = 81 lb/ft.

Many thanks.

[V6 CDX-er]

110 nm is  81.12 lb ft

Doh! You beat me to it   

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Just to add my twopenneth...

A Jag factory worker (well, actually worked in their en
gineeering dept outside of) used to deal with returned cars, faulty vehicles (of which there were more than a couple in the 80s, ahem!) and he told me that the worst thing is an overtightened wheel nut/stud.

It stretches the stud, wears the thread. 'Undertightened' isnt a massive hazard as you might think, as even if loose you'd have to be a dumb maniac to not realise the wheel is wobbling, cabin shudder, vibrations etc. Regularly over-tight nuts can shear unexpectedly, MUCH more hazardous, as they give no prior warning. Since then I've always advocated the 'quick nip'.

Give it an UPWARD pull, without physically putting your legs or back into it. Never tighten a stud by pushing DOWNWARD of course, as we all know, otherwise how the hell will you get if off in the pouring rain, by the roadside without pneumatic tool?

110N/m isnt the earth, of course, but just dont be led to believe that wheel nut/stud torques are as critical as cylinderhead bolts, thats all.

Have fun with your nuts