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[Kneepad]

Well if your absolutely certain it's a working sensor, that only leaves the plug and socket to check.
Making sure the plug is seated properly a squirt of switch cleaner onto the connections may help. 

          :-/

[GmasterT]

as I said, its a td and Ive had all the injectors etc out and had a general clean up.

Just started it again, went 2nd attempt after a 2nd glow up. Ticking over rough and still flashing the same 2 codes...

[Kneepad]

as I said, its a td and Ive had all the injectors etc out and had a general clean up.

Just started it again, went 2nd attempt after a 2nd glow up. Ticking over rough and still flashing the same 2 codes...

When I said plug, I meant the connector on the crank sensor, not spark plug.

Also reading from another post, is the sensor itself seated properly.

Quote:

My fault really, when I have taken out the old crank sensor I never noticed the old oil seal has not came with it, so when I have put the new sensor in it has not seated correctly and not made correct contact. Old seal removed and cleaned, new sensor fitted and hey presto fires first time. Eml light clears also, quick code check and all clear.

Unquote.

[GmasterT]

I am confiedent the plug is ok as to get it started I have to unplug it and keep cranking. Once she fires, it sits around 2.5k rpm untill I plug it back in again and it instantly drops the revs to tick over. I let it run for a min then turn it off then back on again and its fine.

The sensor I got came in the 'cradle' too, which I removed and fitted to the one already on the car. There is a groove in the old sensor where it clearly once rubbed the pick up points, but seems it was alway like that in my ownership as I have never felt resistance from the pick up points anytime I have touched the sensor or when I rotated the fly from when I first got the car and changed the gearbox.

However, when I got it started (with the plug removed as it wouldnt go otherwise) after changing it last night, I went to refit the plug and felt the markers hitting it, so adjusted back just off the point of contact. And again, once its started it runs ok bar a lumpy idle.

The only other thing I can think of is the TD Filter. It is a patent and I noticed a slightly different design to the (patent) one I took off. As soon as I get the chance I will get a genuine one on there. Thinking behind it is the fact its fine or ok after a few hours once its been run and its having issues drawing the fuel up initially for whatever reason...

(Edit) Just to add, I did not notice an oil seal on either of the sensors, nothing fell out, but I was scrabbling around a bit in the dark 

[Kneepad]

Just to add, I did not notice an oil seal on either of the sensors, nothing fell out, but I was scrabbling around a bit in the dark

The reference to the seals would only affect petrol engines.
I am at a loss  to suggest what else to try.  Maybe try going the route that Omegatoy suggested re fuel drainback, it is possible to fit a one way valve to eliminate this, but I can't fathom why you still have the codes 31 and 19.

[PhilRich]

Wont the codes keep showing up until they're cleared from the ECU? :-/

[Kneepad]

Wont the codes keep showing up until they're cleared from the ECU? :-/

Not sure about the 19 but the 31 wouldn't.

[GmasterT]

31 and 48

And it started, 1st time, one glow of the plugs this morning... odd... but in a good way 

[Omegatoy]

31 and 48

And it started, 1st time, one glow of the plugs this morning... odd... but in a good way 

Hmm is that the first time you started it from cold with the c/s in its new no contact postion?

[GmasterT]

No, tried after fitting 1st time (although it was interfering) so yesterday morning would have been its first real attempt that it failed on and resorted to me pulling the plug to start.

Started it at lunch and twice in the afternoon before leaving for home yesterday, but then that has proven to help before anyway, so will leave it for the day today and see 

[GmasterT]

After being perfect yesterday, both in the morning and evening after not touching it, it didnt start this morning and I had to go through the 'starting procedure' again 

[Kneepad]

Just picked this out from one of your previous posts.

 There is a groove in the old sensor where it clearly once rubbed the pick up points,

There must be an air gap between the sensor and the pickup points. I don't know what that gap should be, but if the cradle hasn't been moved then the sensor should be at the correct gap when seated properly.
If the cradle has been moved then it needs to be reset.
If you can find out what the gap should be then it will eliminate this as the problem.

[GmasterT]

Right, just had a look. Played with a few wires on the pump. one on the back of my pump seems to go into loom under the glow plugs. there is some distress in the sheathing for it, but the wires seem intact.

Anyway, I then started it, it ran lumpy and cut out. same again twice more. Gave it some throttle for a min and it seemed better although ticking over rough again. fiddled with the wire while running and no real difference. It still ticks over like its got a miss or hunting. When warmed up a bit its slightly better and fairly smooth when given throttle. Tension Idler seems to rock about a bit when ticking over though...

[Psychoca]

When it is refusing to start, do you get fuel at the injectors (with the CAS connected)  Crack the HP Pipes at the injectors to confirm...

If you don't, I would be looking at the CAS, either failed, or interference destroying its signal...

Mine last year would not start, except with the CAS disconnected, there was no fuel at the injectors either with the CAS connected, mine was caused by the starter motor being loose and destroying the signal...

IMO if the engine starts every time with the CAS disconnected, then it would be part of the problem, if not the whole problem...

[GmasterT]

Getting fuel and checked the wires/cas. No it doesnt want to tick over at all when cold which I think is now why it wont start, still only 8 more posts before I can stick it up in for sales haha