Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Omegatoy]

is it an auto?

[GmasterT]

Yeah, AR35 and everyfink! 

[GmasterT]

Well, Ive resorted to fiddling with the position of th td pump. changed the atmosphere filter thing which ssemed to help although it was warm. Didnt risk starting with the cas plugged in today, but it started straight off. Will see in the morning.

Will plug away for as long as pos as it is a lovely car, but getting fed up! Think I may try and swap it for a 3.2 special as I miss mine   

[GmasterT]

right, the plot thickens! Still didnt want to start this morning, after getting it going it still want idling right, I stopped it and took the battery off for a bit of a charge and give the ecu time to reset itself so I could recheck the codes.

Re start and re check, same, 31 & 48. Now although I gather the rpm signal comes off the cas, td's of old also/tend to pick up off the alt. I had a look while it running lumpy and I thought the tensioner looked a bit iffy. Took it off and one of the mounts have snapped! Next step find another one of those as it looks fairly alloy and unweldable   

[GmasterT]

now getting 19 and 41 

[Omegatoy]

19 is crank sensor i think which would flag up when you start it without it connected?
cant remember what 41 is!! goes off to check it

[hoofing it]

19 is crank sensor i think which would flag up when you start it without it connected?
cant remember what 41 is!! goes off to check it

boost preasure voltage low

[GmasterT]

boost preasure voltage low - what does that mean then  :-?

And my 19, I still have rpm reading on the dash and code 31

I have mucked about with the position of the [ump. Not sure it ticks over better but it feels faster!  Not entirely what I was after!

[Omegatoy]

boost preasure voltage low - what does that mean then  :-?

And my 19, I still have rpm reading on the dash and code 31

I have mucked about with the position of the [ump. Not sure it ticks over better but it feels faster!  Not entirely what I was after!

usuallly means the preesure sensor is blocked with gunge or the hose has a split in it, litle dificult to get to as it sits on the undersiode of the manifold, should be able to replace the hose easy enough but if the inlet is full of blak gunge then whipping it off would definetly help matters, may also help starting so it can get some air?

[GmasterT]

Ok, It didnt start again this morning, even with the cas disconnected, so I adjusted the pump back towards the block a bit and it started and ticks over ok (yey!) I also found the slightest of leaks on no.1 injector going into the block (bubbles after filling up the 'port' with ez start after check for leaks) so cleaned up and hopefull solved the not starting after leaving for a while mystery!

Also, blew threw the boost solinoid pip and seems clear.

Started at lunch ok and seems to be pulling stonger than before. If it behaves tomorrow then I will sort the oil leak and treat it to an oil change 

[hoofing it]

Ok, It didnt start again this morning, even with the cas disconnected, so I adjusted the pump back towards the block a bit and it started and ticks over ok (yey!) I also found the slightest of leaks on no.1 injector going into the block (bubbles after filling up the 'port' with ez start after check for leaks) so cleaned up and hopefull solved the not starting after leaving for a while mystery!

Also, blew threw the boost solinoid pip and seems clear.

Started at lunch ok and seems to be pulling stonger than before. If it behaves tomorrow then I will sort the oil leak and treat it to an oil change 

I know how your feeling at the mo been there done that.
You should tighten the injectors if no-1 is bubbling this will effect running as compression needs to be good.
Also replace air and fuel filter.I change my fuel filter every 8 weeks in winter.
The bottom line it looks like your going to need a new fuel pump in the near future

[GmasterT]

Cheers Hoofin, especially with the tips and pics you sent 

I hope I dont need a pump, if it does it'll have to go! I will keep an eye out for one or probably more likey a donor car in manual flavour and just fit the whole engine and box. Or swap this beast with a 3.2 

It did start this morning though (WOOOOO!!!) smidgen lumpy on idle still, but a touch of gas to keep it at 1k rpm for a min and she was happy enough to tick over from lumpy to pretty smooth

The battery seems to have taken a turn for the worse though due to the beating its got from the booster pack, will have to see how it turns out, but I really cannot face more big money on the thing untill it starts returning some investment! Losing the love a bit 

Fingers crossed and thanks all 

[Omegatoy]

heres hoping it does start 2moro!!!

[GmasterT]

Er... it didnt tonight 

Unplugged the cas again and it went ok... Im sure its this cold idleing thats the issue, but you can only test cold starting twice a day!

[Omegatoy]

Er... it didnt tonight 

Unplugged the cas again and it went ok... Im sure its this cold idleing thats the issue, but you can only test cold starting twice a day!

Got anyone near you with a tech2? you need them to reset the tickover i reckon, however with you swinging the pump back and forth it could just be the throttle position sensor in the pump, have you tried giving the side of the pump a sharp tap when its cold to seat the sensor? have heard of a bodge to set it but never tried it meself!!
basically you loosen the top bolts on the pump then give it a sharp jolt with an adjusting hammer, this moves the sensor ever so slightly and gives a higher tickover,  then tighten the bolts back up, down side is iuf it goes wrong the car ticks over at around 2000rpm!!! lol on balance think i would get a tech2 person to reset your tickovver!! anyone near you?