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[Turk]

 Re: Tensioner arm of main belt (drives water pump, viscous fan, alternator and p/steering pump)

May be worth checking the lower arm on the belt tensioner (the one that holds the wheel).

My mates tensioner failed due to metal fatigue. The tensioner collar snapped and took a trip around the belt, shattering the outer plastic section of the A/C tensioner wheel on it's way. After a quick 'once over' it appears that's the only damage, but won't know for sure until after Crimbo.

No problem, as I had both on my spare engine, but on removing my 'spare' tensioner I discovered it too had a cracked arm.

This crack was not on the collar itself, but around where one of the arm 'blades' meets the collar. Only one of the two blades that form the lower arm was holding the wheel in place.   

It's now been Tig welded and is ready to fit on my mates car after Crimbo.

Not heard of this issue before, but in last few days I've seen two, so I thought I'd mention it as other 2.5td owners may want to check this component on their engine.

I don't mean to scaremonger, as I've had 2.5td's for about 10 years and as I said, I've not heard of this fault before. 

[Kneepad]

Thanks for the 'heads up' Turk.   
 I'll be checking mine at the first opportunity.

[Omegatoy]

seen this on about 4 or 5 td,s, and am pretty sure its caused by garages/owners not knowing how to detension and retension the belt during replacement so they just lever the whole arm assembly with a bar or a screwdriver?

[Shackeng]

seen this on about 4 or 5 td,s, and am pretty sure its caused by garages/owners not knowing how to detension and retension the belt during replacement so they just lever the whole arm assembly with a bar or a screwdriver?

What, you mean I was wrong? I will be checking soonest, thanks for the heads up Turk.

[Psychoca]

Silly question, but, is this the tension arm at the top with the little shock absorber on (as in the green arrow, picture "borrowed from guide"



If so I changed mine last year after I snapped mine retensioning the belt, following the way TIS suggested...  The OOF way is the way to go...

[TheBoy]

Like Omegatoy, I've seen a couple like this, and suspect its due to the way people release the tensioner.

The 'Omegatoy method', as I've described in the guide, is the best and safest method I've found - the BMW way, the TIS way, and the LR way is too prone to causing damage.

[Turk]

Silly question, but, is this the tension arm at the top with the little shock absorber on (as in the green arrow, picture "borrowed from guide"


If so I changed mine last year after I snapped mine retensioning the belt, following the way TIS suggested...  The OOF way is the way to go...

Neither.  It is the component that attaches to the lower end of the tensioner 'shock absorber'.

This is it: http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv327/Turkpix/tensioner.jpg

Both failures I have seen were the lower arm that holds the tensioner wheel.

(Sorry it's just a link. Tried to post the image but it just wasn't happening.  )

[Turk]

Here's the one I've had tig welded.

[pcd]

yep just replaced mine cost £27 from pentagon,they quoted me £50 For the belts,paid £19 for branded after market ones.On re fitting tensioner,the black bracket has a hook and a pivot,bit extream i know,but i used a crow bar never needed to touch tensioner just the black bracket.also no need to remove tensioner wheel to replace belt,make the loop and push belt between top of wheel,then feed on to pully,fit fiddly but no more than trying to re fit tensioner wheel and bolt.replaced my themostat as well but now seem to have a leek near to housing.

[Psychoca]

Reply, that is the general area I meant...  Mine did indeed fail last year when I was following the TIS guide for retensioning the belt...

Fortunately I was able to acquire a replacement from a BMW specialist scrappie (I couldn't track down a diesel miggy anywhere)...