Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[mrgreen]

yes the shocks are new what i mean is the metal sleeve on the bottom of the shock(which sits a little into the hub) which the bolt goes through  is larger in diameter than the bolt, but i geuss it's o.k as the bit which sits into the hub is the correct size. i geuss the estate springs are rated harder than saloon springs i am wondering if that's the problem, too hard, also while you're on Chris are michelin primacy a known tramliner because mine seem to be!, thanks for the replies Chris,
rich.

If it was the same diameter or smaller, the bolt wouldn`t go through

;Dcorrect but this has play of about 1mm in it!! but i'm geussing the bolt floats on the rubber bush in the washer cup!

[feeutfo]

Is it worth trying the old gm top shock mounts?  :-/  Bilstein ones are harder.

Primacy not known for tram lining. But they all get worse as they wear. How much tread left?

a good 6-7mm i think and as for trying the old top mounts me being an idiot kept everything form the change except the rear shocks why i don't know it's not like me to throw anything away but i'm going to take the shock back out and make sure it's seated properly in the hole

....and torque to 110nm....?

Has the car been set up? What are the final figures?

[mrgreen]

Is it worth trying the old gm top shock mounts?  :-/  Bilstein ones are harder.

Primacy not known for tram lining. But they all get worse as they wear. How much tread left?

a good 6-7mm i think and as for trying the old top mounts me being an idiot kept everything form the change except the rear shocks why i don't know it's not like me to throw anything away but i'm going to take the shock back out and make sure it's seated properly in the hole

....and torque to 110nm....?

Has the car been set up? What are the final figures?

yes all has been set up i torqued to 110 but my torque wrench isn't the best so i gave it a bit of welly to make sure,  the back end  has camber of:
 left -01'58 and right -02'48
front camber is :
left -1'04 and right -01'10
 i printed off what you told me on here but they weren't interested and set it up from a book they had?

[feeutfo]

Front is ok for left hand drive.

Rear not sure of the setting but thats a huge difference in left to right. Where the rear track rods seized?

And what are the bushes like front and back...

[feeutfo]

Rear camber on Estate should be -1.40.  Toe -20

According to Haynes anyway.

[mrgreen]

would this cause crabbing? and would it be a contributor to tramlining?

[mrgreen]

Front is ok for left hand drive.

Rear not sure of the setting but thats a huge difference in left to right. Where the rear track rods seized?

And what are the bushes like front and back...

that i don't know but i will be checking the bushes when i'm next under there

[mrgreen]

i'm not really sure which is which, i have two printouts on a ribbon so i'm geussing the top one is what it came in with ,or it was a inbetween readout before final adjustments were made??and the bottom one is what it left with  the top printout reads:

front alignment :left+ 00.4mm
                      right+ 00.4mm

camber             left -01'03
                      right -1'06
backend:
camber             left  + 2.2mm
                       right +02.2mm
 
alignment           left-2'03
                        right-2'42

[feeutfo]

would this cause crabbing? and would it be a contributor to tramlining?

Yes, it will react more to road imperfections. Also rear donut bushes will give a steering from the back effect. If the car moves around but there's no feeling of it pulling through the steering it's at the rear. If you can feel the pull it's the front.


Tyres wear needs to be even across the tread too. Or best as.

[mrgreen]

would this cause crabbing? and would it be a contributor to tramlining?

Yes, it will react more to road imperfections. Also rear donut bushes will give a steering from the back effect. If the car moves around but there's no feeling of it pulling through the steering it's at the rear. If you can feel the pull it's the front.


Tyres wear needs to be even across the tread too. Or best as.

o.k so i took her for a drive today on acceleration it drives straight and by cruising seems to drive relatively straight but if i back off it sometimes not always wants to pull left i'm geussing the rear subframe is moving a bit? although it's all a bit confusing as sometimes driving the steering wheel is not straight and im always correcting to the right even if the camber of the road is also to the right but i geuss this is a back end problem whilst there is no play up front from what i've seen (went through an m.o.t and he pulled on everything sufficently!) so i'm geussing there is some forward backwards movement somewhere would that indicate donut bushes? must admit i looked at them and they looked alright, would putting harder suspension end numbered there days quicker? the car has 170k on the clock is that relative to donut bush wear?

[feeutfo]

They'll be breaked mate tbh.

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1283124735

[mrgreen]

yes i'm coming to this conclusion would this be the cause of a rumbling noise which passes through the cabin when i back off sort of sounds wheel bearingish but i don't think it is  it's more universal joint in the drive shaft sort of noise as when under power it isn't there

[Mr Gav]

Front is ok for left hand drive.

Rear not sure of the setting but thats a huge difference in left to right. Where the rear track rods seized?

The rear track rods wouldn`t have an effect on camber though would they? They only adjust for toe in/out for the passive rear wheel steering.
Large differences in rear camber from left to right would usually be caused by worn rear wishbone bushes, probably the inner void bush.

[mrgreen]

i believe the camber all works together with the toe in and out but quite right in saying there shouldn't be  a difference in camber if they're both set the same on the toe which they are can you be more specific about the wishbone bushes! as the only ones i know are the tie rod ends sway bar and the donuts!

[mrgreen]

does anyone have a diagram of the rear suspension? and i am driving to spain and hoping to take the mig next week how quickly will this problem deteriate or can i just expect much of the same for a while?as on the motorways it's a little tiring to be sure but doable and more comfy than the polo or should i just bite the bullet and head off to opel and have them fix it before i go? also would i be best to replace it all in one hiit donuts and wishbone bushes? i don't know anything about the wishbone bushes but are they d.i.y friendly?, and last but not least i basically have 6 hours free before we head off to spain are the donuts doable in this timeframe??