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[cooke1100]

Hi,

Ok my stepdad has an omega 2.2 16v on a 52 plate I think the engine code is 2ze or 22e along those lines.
The car is in great shape except for the erratic idling where it idles at 500 rpm and sounds awful. Engine managment light was on and we had aa out where they said it wasn't firing on cylinder 4. So new set of spark plugs and coil pack and still sounds rough but not as bad and there's less of a jumpy engine now.
I've cleaned throttle body out and replaced plugs and coil pack.
I'm wondering if the timing has jumped a tooth but can't seem to see where cam shaft outer mark is the inlet and exhaust are at 12 o'clock can any one point me in the right direction to a diagram.
Does anyone know how to test injector rail?
Does any one know what could be the problem with the idling.

Also when revved to about 2000 rpm engine sounds fine and also engine managment light is now out.
On dash screen it says SAFE.

Any help or advice would be much apprecited.
Thanks in advance.

[mrgreen]

how did the old plugs look when you took them out? did you have any symptoms on them?
http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm

[cooke1100]

Spark plugs looked normal except cyl 4 which was slightly wet as I ran it for a few seconds to look for a wet spark plug as this happens on my galaxy when a coil pack goes.

[Andy B]

...
On dash screen it says SAFE.
...

The radio is waiting for a code. 

[cooke1100]

...
On dash screen it says SAFE.
...

The radio is waiting for a code. 

Thanks I did disconnect battery to try and reset ecu. Though it was warning me that car was in safe mode.

[mrgreen]

is it down on power as well? i had a volvo which had burnt a valve and idled erratic but at around 2000 rpm sounded fine but it does sound like a firing problem on no.4 if it was wet check the wiring coming from the back of the coil pack for chffing and check the connectors are in good nick as well

[cooke1100]

I checked all connectors and it all seems fine. I also fired up engine with new plugs and coil and checked plugs afterwards and it all seemed fine. Could be a valve as now and again it sounds like its spitting in air box like a back fire but quieter.

[mrgreen]

next stop then compression test and probably if that's o.k then a code reading session idoubt the paper clip trick will work as it's a four pot but you can try http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/YaBB.pl?num=1236032406

[cooke1100]

Fault codes showing no faults. So I'm wondering ecu problems. But I need to know where timing marks are for cam shaft as I have timing cover off and can't conduct compression test until I checked cam belt.

[mrgreen]

Crank has a semi-circle notch on the outer pulley edge, that should point to 6 o'clock, there is a small cut out on the rear cambelt cover. (i copied this from vxforums) but i am geussing that slipping a tooth would show more mis-firing across the board not just on one cylinder,HTH

i don't know how advanced the omega is in ecu control but when a cylinder on my wifes polo doesn't fire it cuts the fuel to that cylinder as far as i'm aware!! but i geuss if you're not storing a code the ecu thinks all is good!!

[Kevin Wood]

Coughing back into the intakes can be a symptom of a lean fuel mixture. Does it do it when cold, hot or both?

Wondering if it might be a failing MAF?

If you unplug the MAF does it idle better?

[cooke1100]

It doesn't get better cos I unplugged maf first and no improvment but when I plugged it back in it sounded good for a few seconds and picked up idling speed but then it dropped again and sounded rough that's when car produced eng mang light and so got AA out to read fault codes where they said not firing cyl 4 so I cahnged coil and plugs a little better and not much vibration but still sounds groggy and idles still at 500 rpm also it does it when hot and cold and does cut out now and again and can be difficult to start but that's the battery going flat.

[cooke1100]

So far done to this car is:

New coil pack
New plugs
New maf sensor
All cables and connections checked.


I'm very much suspecting valves I've either got a bent, burnt or chipped valve.
I don't really wanna spend over 100 on a compression test.
Anyone know a good way to check valves with just the rocker cover off. Other wise I'm gonna have to strip the head.
I'm ready to cut my losses and put car on ebay.
Best way to describe engine noise is like a bad tuned v6 up until car hits 2000 rpm and its fine.

[mrgreen]

compression test takes no time at all and can't imagine it costing 100 quid! or buy one of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PETROL-ENGINE-AUTOMOTIVE-COMPRESSION-TESTER-GAUGE-KIT-/320704358898?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4aab7829f2 i geuss with the rocker cover off you could put some thin oil or other thin lubricant on the suspect valve when they are closed and see if it disappears after a while but it does make me wonder if there's not a bad connection somewhere within īthe wires going to the maf sensor have you tried unpugging and replugging to see if it again comes back to normal idle

[cooke1100]

tried unplugging the new siemens maf sensor and still no joy.
One thing I did try was get the engine red hot and pour redex down into each cylinder and left it for 30 mins, the took rocker cover off and put a bit of redex on each valve whilst closed marking the level and left it for about 5 mins each time and hardly any dissapeared except for some which vapourised from the hot engine. When I reassembled and fired it up it sounded normal for a minute then dropped back down to its fluctuating 500 to 600 rpms. I'm gonna give it a good run on motorway later to see if that will cure it.
Im getting stuck what to do next. Also there's only a full circle on camshaft outer pulley and a half moon on timing cover and thats at about 10 o'clock.