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Author Topic: replacing manifold studs  (Read 2446 times)

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MartinP

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replacing manifold studs
« on: 09 September 2011, 23:13:29 »
what is the procedure for replacing the studs, the old ones are all out.

loctite
Copperslip
dry

fitting new fabricated exhaust.

Martin
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Bionic

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #1 on: 10 September 2011, 07:01:44 »
They are meant to stay in place when the nuts are taken off so Coppaslip will defeat that objective. That said it is easier to remove the manifolds if the studs come out too. Its your choice.
You can use stainless steel threaded bar to make your own too.
Using loctite is asking for trouble cos it might lead to studs snapping.
No doubt others will have different views but mine is based on personal experience over a near 40 years in the repair trade.
 :y
« Last Edit: 10 September 2011, 07:02:49 by its.ray »
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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #2 on: 10 September 2011, 23:07:30 »
just changed all mine after drilling out 2 snapped ones(nightmare!), copperslip every time!! ;)
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MartinP

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #3 on: 10 September 2011, 23:55:03 »
Quote
They are meant to stay in place when the nuts are taken off so Coppaslip will defeat that objective. That said it is easier to remove the manifolds if the studs come out too. Its your choice.
You can use stainless steel threaded bar to make your own too.
Using loctite is asking for trouble cos it might lead to studs snapping.
No doubt others will have different views but mine is based on personal experience over a near 40 years in the repair trade.
 :y


Thanks, I was erring on the side of copperslip as I would rather clean & replace the pins than have to drill out sheared ones.
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HockeyDave55

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #4 on: 11 September 2011, 11:58:21 »
Quote
Quote
They are meant to stay in place when the nuts are taken off so Coppaslip will defeat that objective. That said it is easier to remove the manifolds if the studs come out too. Its your choice.
You can use stainless steel threaded bar to make your own too.


Using loctite is asking for trouble cos it might lead to studs snapping.
No doubt others will have different views but mine is based on personal experience over a near 40 years in the repair trade.
 :y


Thanks, I was erring on the side of copperslip as I would rather clean & replace the pins than have to drill out sheared ones.
I just replaced all 4 of mine with stainless studs...
They ain't gonna rust!  :y
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Andy B

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #5 on: 11 September 2011, 12:03:10 »
Quote
...
I just replaced all 4 of mine with stainless studs...
They ain't gonna rust!  :y

but stainless is a bit soft and I'd suspect more likely to shear  :-/ :-/ :-/
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HockeyDave55

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #6 on: 11 September 2011, 12:12:17 »
Quote
Quote
...
I just replaced all 4 of mine with stainless studs...
They ain't gonna rust!  :y

but stainless is a bit soft and I'd suspect more likely to shear  :-/ :-/ :-/
Not with Copperslip on them too!  :y
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Andy B

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #7 on: 11 September 2011, 12:14:37 »
Quote
Quote
Quote
...
I just replaced all 4 of mine with stainless studs...
They ain't gonna rust!  :y

but stainless is a bit soft and I'd suspect more likely to shear  :-/ :-/ :-/
Not with Copperslip on them too!  :y

 :-/ :-/ not sure how a grease will affect the shear qualities of a stud .....  ;) ;)
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HockeyDave55

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #8 on: 11 September 2011, 12:20:55 »
Quote
Quote
Quote
Quote
...
I just replaced all 4 of mine with stainless studs...
They ain't gonna rust!  :y

but stainless is a bit soft and I'd suspect more likely to shear  :-/ :-/ :-/
Not with Copperslip on them too!  :y

 :-/ :-/ not sure how a grease will affect the shear qualities of a stud .....  ;) ;)
My thought on this is...
An A2 stainless stud will not corrode like a standard stud, that together with Copperslip... What can go wrong?
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HockeyDave55

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #9 on: 11 September 2011, 12:29:54 »
Another point to make on studs breaking is the standard stud has an unthreaded section and when installed at the factory, they are fitted using a special driver/gun.
They are run in until they stop against the unthreaded section... Have a look at one of your old studs and I am sure all of them will be damaged in this area.
I believe this would contribute to weakening the stud from the factory...
« Last Edit: 11 September 2011, 12:30:40 by HockeyDave55 »
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Andy B

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #10 on: 11 September 2011, 12:53:26 »
Quote
....An A2 stainless stud will not corrode like a standard stud, that together with Copperslip... What can go wrong?

It can shear!! Corrode ....... shear . they're two different things  ;)

All you're doing by using a stud that's threaded thought its length is tightening the stud at the bottom of the hole rather than using the unthreaded shank of the original stud. These types of stud are designed to be used as Vx used them.
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HockeyDave55

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #11 on: 11 September 2011, 13:46:50 »
Quote
Quote
....An A2 stainless stud will not corrode like a standard stud, that together with Copperslip... What can go wrong?

It can shear!! Corrode ....... shear . they're two different things  ;)

All you're doing by using a stud that's threaded thought its length is tightening the stud at the bottom of the hole rather than using the unthreaded shank of the original stud. These types of stud are designed to be used as Vx used them.

I get your point but the design of the VX stud is for ease of fit for the guy on the line.
My stud are at the bottom of the hole which by the way is not a blind hole, it's open so I only run my studs to the bottom and stop there, fit the cat pipes and torque from there.
My point about the corrosion/sheering is the on the VX stud, all of mine had damage at the point where they bottom against the unthreaded area, this alone will weaken the stud and coupled with corrosion, you get a sheered stud.
Anyway, if my exhaust falls of down the road, I'll take it all back!  ;D
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Andy B

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #12 on: 11 September 2011, 13:58:54 »
Quote
Quote
Quote
....An A2 stainless stud will not corrode like a standard stud, that together with Copperslip... What can go wrong?

It can shear!! Corrode ....... shear . they're two different things  ;)

All you're doing by using a stud that's threaded thought its length is tightening the stud at the bottom of the hole rather than using the unthreaded shank of the original stud. These types of stud are designed to be used as Vx used them.

I get your point but the design of the VX stud is for ease of fit for the guy on the line.
My stud are at the bottom of the hole which by the way is not a blind hole, it's open so I only run my studs to the bottom and stop there, fit the cat pipes and torque from there.
My point about the corrosion/sheering is the on the VX stud, all of mine had damage at the point where they bottom against the unthreaded area, this alone will weaken the stud and coupled with corrosion, you get a sheered stud.
Anyway, if my exhaust falls of down the road, I'll take it all back!  ;D

Virtually all bolts at work are stainless steel - it's a food factory - but there are various places where the bolts will shear. It's a toss up between the bolts not rusting solid in situ & them shearing.  :y :y
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HockeyDave55

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #13 on: 11 September 2011, 15:32:58 »
ANY bolt will sheer in the right conditions. I work at Nissan technology centre, the dept next to me test fixings all day long and use torque rigs to wind them in till they break and believe me some of the big guys go with a bang!!!!!
As you say, there will always be a compromise when selecting alternative bolts, stud or whatever but an M10 x 1.5 A2 stainless stud will be fine for this application..... IMO...
 :)
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HockeyDave55

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Re: replacing manifold studs
« Reply #14 on: 11 September 2011, 15:37:11 »
AndyB,
I take it you work in maintenance? The food industry use A1 bolts??? Are they not about the same SH as a standard VX stud? And tensile strength??
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