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[Padster]

Hi, Does anyone know how i can put my amp/sub in the boot, but keep the standard head unit? I would assume that the standard head doesn't have RCA OUTS on it? I have heard of a conversion which is a bit on the hefty side for cash, Cheers, Pad.

[Marks DTM Calib]

How many channels is the amp?

Idealy you want 4 channels plus a sub.....then feed the speaker wiring from the head unit to the amp, pipe the amped signals back and feed them into the loom and use the amp to filter the low end stuff out. Then connect sub to fill in the base.

The omega side trims remove easily to allow cable routing and the original fit speakers are more tha good enough for the mid/high stuff (can take about 30W RMS)

[Jay w]

ne the sort of thing you are referring to, however i had the Bose set up and so already had all the speaker cables running to the boot of the car.
Mine head unit didn't have pre outs on it, all i did was to buy some goo quality phono leads and solder them on to the speaker cables, i then ran a fused power lead, a seperate earth and a switched remote lead to the back of the car to control the amps
My current set up is an alpine 4 channel running the speakers in the car and another amp running 2x12inch subs in an enclosure, the subs make a hell of a difference to the sound quality.

Overall cost was not that bad, it was a lot of time spent running wire and soldering connection, but the end result was worth it  

[Padster]

I've got a VIBE 600w 2 channel amp (this is when bridged). All  I want to do is connect RCAs to the back of the head unit and I can do the rest, I MISS ME BASS!  Obviously I will HPF the door speakers and in the two fronts there are 2 tweeters anyway.

Any ideas how I can RCA the outputs on the back of the head unit?

Dude, how did you solder and what, cos that sounds like a plan!

If anyone knows of a conversion kit, I would much appreciate a website address.

Cheers,
THE Padster

[Jay w]

if i was trying to do what you want top achieve i would be looking at taking a feed from the rear speakers, soldering some phono connections to them and that would be your sound to the Amp.

I don't know that this is a way of having the RCA connectors direct out of the head unit

[Hillper]

There's no phono level outputs on the headunit.  
The conversion you mentioned is probably a powered line output converter.  You would need one if your amp doesn't have high level inputs.

Assuming your amp does has high level (speaker level) inputs, you can use these.  Tee into the rear speaker feeds with some speaker wire and connect to the amp inputs.  Keep the polarity the same for each channel.

And definately high pass the door speakers.  

Edit.  I grew up in Sittingbourne!

[Admin]

I have to ask the question...

Why are you so insistant on keeping the headunit?
Yes, it has steering controls and the display on the MID (most units nowadays have adaptors for these).

No, it has not phono outputs, it has very low power output and a very limited range of features (no mp3 support).

I really would recommend changing it. If you want good sound out, you need a good signal in.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Of course, mentioning MP3 and good sound in the same sentence is a bit of a contradiction.....

I personally like this type of approach, the main let down in the factory fit audio is the amps, by using the speaker outputs to drive an amp with speaker inputs the distortion is massively reduced because the output drive is very much reduced (the speaker inputs are much higher impedance, note how the Bose system explores this).

As for the DAC based setup internally, the parts used in the standard kit are very good and will have a lower distortion figure than anything with the additional MP3 type processing capability (not that you could ever detect this in a noisy car environment).

Plus it fits in with the rest of the dash setup.......at the end of the day, the main item that will help the sound is the amp and sub.....from then on its diminishing returns....the further gains from a head unit will then be minimal (although many have 'tuned' sound output, ie the manufacturer messes with the audio to tune it to the target audiences taste....they distort it for you, hence why one persons favorite is another's poison)

[theolodian]

I find that the Bose system is quite good with the treble on zero and the bass on -1.  Reduces distortion, not a ton of bass but what sound it does make is pretty good for a car.  

Is there an easy way to wire a sub into the Bose system and HPF everything else?  Passive filter before the Bose amp and use an off-the-shelf powered sub?  I'm not in a rush, but if not expensive might be game to try.

[Marks DTM Calib]

The easiest solution would be to take the Bose outputs to the bass speakers on the rear shelf, disconnect them and feed them to a sub.

The door speakers already have the low end stuff removed.

[theolodian]

The easiest solution would be to take the Bose outputs to the bass speakers on the rear shelf, disconnect them and feed them to a sub.

The door speakers already have the low end stuff removed.

OK thanks.  So I can just replace the speakers in the rear shelf, either with low range subwoofers in the rear shelf, or with a non-powered sub enclosure in the trunk.  No additional amp required.

[Marks DTM Calib]

If your no going to add an extra amp then there is no point in doing anything.....most of the low end distortion is likely to be clipping due to the amp being overdriven.

The best route would be to get a small powered sub and feed the Bose sub speaker signals into it (hope this is clearer than my original explanation).

[theolodian]

OK, cheers.

[Admin]

I understand your reasoning Mark, and I know better to argue with you on audio matters!

However, the original unit is not the most feature rich or impressive.
Also, would you not agree the signal from a dedcated RCA output is significantly better than tapping into the wiring (even allowing for the fact this is a car environment).

Ultimately though, as you say, it is down to personal preference.

Has to be added though, the Bose system is mighty impressive as a standard fit!
Theo, may I humbly suggest the Infinity Basslink as a means of producing extra bass?

I had one (and will be putting another into the Saab in due course). They are very very good (well I thought so... Mark is yet to be convinced! ) and take up only a small amount of space.

[Marks DTM Calib]

However, the original unit is not the most feature rich or impressive.

Also, would you not agree the signal from a dedicated RCA output is significantly better than tapping into the wiring (even allowing for the fact this is a car environment).

What features do you realy want, the most you might gain (that is truely useful) would be MP3 capability (questionable.....) and maybe DAB support. The rest is pretty gimmicy stuff like fancy displays etc.

RCA output better, marginaly, slightly less circuitry to go through but......a lot more expense over and above the amp and sub for questionable gains (assuming you dont want/need MP3 support) by changing the head unit.

Its the old horses for courses routine.....