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amp in mv6 (non factory fitted)

Started by paul36uk1, 13 May 2008, 18:03:00

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Dave DND

Can you email me a good close up picture of the earth?

technical@dndservices.co.uk
Radio & Decoding Technician
In Car Audio Service Department
www.dndservices.co.uk

Marks DTM Calib

QuoteCan you email me a good close up picture of the earth?

technical@dndservices.co.uk

0V/Chassis connection, no earth on a car  :y

Dave DND

You can`t assume that just because its screwed into the metal that its earthed !! If it were that easy, I`d be out of a job !!

I need to see what panel it is screwed into to ensure that it is fixed to a primary chassis panel and not a secondary floor panel that is often poorly spot welded and bonded with seam sealent - as if affixed to this, it will see the earth return at a slightly higher resistance. Every panel joint and weld is a potential problem.

For anybody wanting to know the best earth for a boot mounted amp, our preferred location is under the boot carpet, affixed to the floor with a big shiny self tapper above the box section chassis rail that runs within an inch or so of the base of a suspension turret. The paintwork needs to be rubbed back also. This is the thickest part of the chassis and has a continuous and often seamless return back to the battery.
Radio & Decoding Technician
In Car Audio Service Department
www.dndservices.co.uk

Marks DTM Calib

QuoteYou can`t assume that just because its screwed into the metal that its earthed !! If it were that easy, I`d be out of a job !!

I need to see what panel it is screwed into to ensure that it is fixed to a primary chassis panel and not a secondary floor panel that is often poorly spot welded and bonded with seam sealent - as if affixed to this, it will see the earth return at a slightly higher resistance. Every panel joint and weld is a potential problem.

For anybody wanting to know the best earth for a boot mounted amp, our preferred location is under the boot carpet, affixed to the floor with a big shiny self tapper above the box section chassis rail that runs within an inch or so of the base of a suspension turret. The paintwork needs to be rubbed back also. This is the thickest part of the chassis and has a continuous and often seamless return back to the battery.

Lol, think I spent to long in the power engineering industry......as said, no earth on a car (unless you have it connectd to a 6 foot spike driven into the ground), there is a chassis or 0v  :y

Dave DND

QuoteLol, think I spent to long in the power engineering industry......as said, no earth on a car (unless you have it connectd to a 6 foot spike driven into the ground), there is a chassis or 0v  

:P
Radio & Decoding Technician
In Car Audio Service Department
www.dndservices.co.uk

paul36uk1

i will try to get a couple of photos today Dave,im starting to thing its 2 problems,one like you said a bad earth and secondly the line level feed,when the anp is powered up it sounds very powerful ie just one notch on the volume control on the head unit and the sound belts out

Dave DND

Radio & Decoding Technician
In Car Audio Service Department
www.dndservices.co.uk

Dave DND

Good pictures.

Obviously, these suggestions are purely guidelines and I cannot guarantee anything, but is where I would start from.

The earth looks like it is attatched to a cross brace going across the car, and the metal has not been rubbed down. I would relocate the earth to the point mentioned earlier and make sure to rub away some paintwork to ensure a good connection.

As far as the Input levels jumping, I suspect you have the wrong line level convertor fitted and may require an adjustable one. If using an adjustable one, its not uncommon to fit a ground loop isolator at the same time to each set of rca leads.

let me know how you get on.
Radio & Decoding Technician
In Car Audio Service Department
www.dndservices.co.uk

paul36uk1

a mechanic mate of mine has had a look and he said that instead of taking the feed straight from the battery he has joined into the cable from behind the fuse box under the steering wheel and that all the interference is comming from all the different relays on the board

is this possible,sounds like it to me and im no techie

im taking the car back to the guy who fitted the amp tomorrow morn,im just trying to get some sort of a list together so i can tell him to get it sorted out

Dave DND

OOps!  I kind of assumed that the power feed came straight from the battery - your mechanic mate has certainly spotted an absolute blinder there!!

I would be hesitant about getting this guy to fix it though, if thats what he did, I think I would get my money back and go elsewhere instead.
Radio & Decoding Technician
In Car Audio Service Department
www.dndservices.co.uk

paul36uk1

took it back to the guy today and he said there was a bad eatrh on the head unit,he fitted another one and changed the power feed directly to the battery,it seems 99% of the interference has gone now so im a little bit happier now

id just like to thank dave dnd and the other guys for all your help and advice,

its nice to know that there are some really helpful guys on this site

thanks alot   :y

Dave DND

You are more than welcome - thanks for letting us know the outcome

:y
Radio & Decoding Technician
In Car Audio Service Department
www.dndservices.co.uk

VXL V6

Just being nosey, what happened to the original Bose amp?


Jimbob

QuoteJust being nosey, what happened to the original Bose amp?



MV6 dont have bose by default  :(

VXL V6

Ah right, assumed it had Bose as it had an NCDR head unit.