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[Turk]

Today I noticed that when the engine was revved to around 3k all the dashboard guages and rev counter would react as if the ignition had been turned off and the airbag light etc would come on. All ok as long as revs didn't exceed 2.5k.

Checked the alternator output. At idle it's around 14v. Raising the revs to 3k gives over 19v and the battery can be smelt.
I have the alternator from my '94 2.5td Elite, which had no charging issues when the car was in regular use and appears to be the same as my '00 2.5td CD.
I need advice on:
1) What is the likelyhood that the alternators are compatible and can they be swapped without completely removing the coolant and A/C condensor rads and anything else in the way. Is there a way to change an alternator without major(ish) component removal ?  
Basically, is there a short-cut ?
The A/C pipework is just in front of the alternator and the power steering pipe is just behind, so one of those will have to be removed and obviously the belt tensioner to allow the belt to be slipped off.

2) If I remove the power steering pipe, it looks like I can access the last bolt and remove the plastic moulding on the rear of the alternator and just swap over the regulator from my old alternator to the one on the car with the alternator in situ. Is the "regulator only" swap a long shot or is there a reasonable chance this will solve the overcharging issue ?

It's going to be a few days before I can do anything so at the moment I'm keeping the lights and the rear window de-mister on. Is this pointless or will it ease the overcharging of the system temporarily ?

S.O.S...HELP...MAYDAY...etc, etc, etc...!!!

[TheBoy]

intake off, then alternator is supposed to lift out upwards (once unbolted, obviously).  Didn't on mine, or Omegatoys.  just fiddle it out as best you can

[Turk]

Sorry if I'm being a bit dim, but what do you mean by "Intake"?
  
As for lifting upwards, the space between the battery tray and the alternator mount will not allow this, or at least it doesn't look like it will.
If it can be wiggled etc but a real fiddle then I'll try it. I just don't want to after hours of wiggling find that it's a case of having to remove half the front end after all.  

What about the "regulator only" swap, or is this unlikely to solve the issue ?

    

[TheBoy]

Sorry if I'm being a bit dim, but what do you mean by "Intake"?
  
As for lifting upwards, the space between the battery tray and the alternator mount will not allow this, or at least it doesn't look like it will.
If it can be wiggled etc but a real fiddle then I'll try it. I just don't want to after hours of wiggling find that it's a case of having to remove half the front end after all.  

What about the "regulator only" swap, or is this unlikely to solve the issue ?

    

sorrry, meant inlet - the big silver thing on top of engine feeding air to engine.

thats trouble i had, had to bring mine out forward, but tight..

i reckon too tight to change regulator in situ....

[RobG]

Does sound like the regulator. Got to be replaced with same though

[Turk]

Sorry if I'm being a bit dim, but what do you mean by "Intake"?
  
As for lifting upwards, the space between the battery tray and the alternator mount will not allow this, or at least it doesn't look like it will.
If it can be wiggled etc but a real fiddle then I'll try it. I just don't want to after hours of wiggling find that it's a case of having to remove half the front end after all.  

What about the "regulator only" swap, or is this unlikely to solve the issue ?

    

sorrry, meant inlet - the big silver thing on top of engine feeding air to engine.

thats trouble i had, had to bring mine out forward, but tight..

i reckon too tight to change regulator in situ....

D'ya mean the Plennum chamber ?  That's not in the way at all. (or do I have a firm grip on the wrong end of the stick...again ?)

[Turk]

Does sound like the regulator. Got to be replaced with same though

Both 2.5td's. One 94 elite, one '00 CD.  Visually the same, just a blob of rubber/plastic bolted on to the rear of the alternator under the plastic cover.  

[Omegatoy]

intake off, then alternator is supposed to lift out upwards (once unbolted, obviously).  Didn't on mine, or Omegatoys.  just fiddle it out as best you can

didnt we have to remove the bolts for the power steering pump as well to allow it to be wriggled out? and why do i think it came out the bottom??   or did it come out up the side of the rad?

[TheBoy]

intake off, then alternator is supposed to lift out upwards (once unbolted, obviously).  Didn't on mine, or Omegatoys.  just fiddle it out as best you can

didnt we have to remove the bolts for the power steering pump as well to allow it to be wriggled out? and why do i think it came out the bottom??  

in your case we were trying to remove pas.  pas wouldn't drop out bottom, so we poped alternator off

[Turk]

I took the alternator of my Elite easily enough, but the rad and a/c condensor were already off and the a/c pipework was also loose.
Pretty confident it will not slide straight up as there is about 6" max between battery tray and alternator mount (...unless the alternator mount is also removable,  or is that part of the engine block ?)

On my CD it would possibly slide out the front if the a/c pipework wasn't there but it would still be touch and go as to whether it would have room without removing the rads.
The PAS pipe is tight up against the rear of the alternator.

I just don't fancy having to pay the best part of £50 to get the a/c gas removed and re-gassed, take off both rads and undo the a/c pipework if after all that there is a short cut.

I'm tempted to try swapping the regulators over. I'll still have to remove the PAS pipe but that's not too big a deal. It'll be a real fiddle but at least I won't have to remove half the front end.

Typical...should have known something was about to happen. I thought it was strange not having any issues with either the bike or car.      

[TheBoy]

Try this, absolutely no idea if it will work, but nothing lost if it doesn't.

Inlet manifold off (allow with all the crap you need to remove to get that off), so you can see the alternator.

I think, from memory, you have to disconnect the 2 wires to back of alternator before you can do much else, as they are short.

Undo alternator, and try to manuover it so pulley side is down, and regulator end is upwards - you MAY be able to swap the reg over.  Never done that, so no idea if there is enough room.

[Turk]

Sounds like a plan...and I love it when a plan comes together  

[Turk]

There was room to turn the rear upwards to get the cover off and swap the regulator over.
Left the plennum in place. Removed battery, undid hose from rad to engine block (below plennum). Removed "TURBO DIESEL" plastic housing (never did know the correct term for it). Removed top bolt on belt tensioner and slackened bolt on the tensioner mount to allow it to pivot. Prised belt off alternator. Unbolted alternator, wiggled it reasonably easily thru 90 degrees, cover off, swap over regulator...and repeated all the above in reverse.  

It seems to be sprted. At least the guages don't shut down when I rev it past 3k rpm.   Couldn't check it properly as I couldn't find the multi tester. Will hopefully do that tomorow.

Thanks for the input and advice.    

Oh, forgot to mention, if I had removed the PAS pipe at the rear of the alternator I reckon it would slide back and upwards to remove it completely.

[Omegatoy]

intake off, then alternator is supposed to lift out upwards (once unbolted, obviously).  Didn't on mine, or Omegatoys.  just fiddle it out as best you can

didnt we have to remove the bolts for the power steering pump as well to allow it to be wriggled out? and why do i think it came out the bottom??  

in your case we were trying to remove pas.  pas wouldn't drop out bottom, so we poped alternator off

doh!!! your right!!!

[Omegatoy]

There was room to turn the rear upwards to get the cover off and swap the regulator over.
Left the plennum in place. Removed battery, undid hose from rad to engine block (below plennum). Removed "TURBO DIESEL" plastic housing (never did know the correct term for it). Removed top bolt on belt tensioner and slackened bolt on the tensioner mount to allow it to pivot. Prised belt off alternator. Unbolted alternator, wiggled it reasonably easily thru 90 degrees, cover off, swap over regulator...and repeated all the above in reverse.  

It seems to be sprted. At least the guages don't shut down when I rev it past 3k rpm.   Couldn't check it properly as I couldn't find the multi tester. Will hopefully do that tomorow.

Thanks for the input and advice.    

Oh, forgot to mention, if I had removed the PAS pipe at the rear of the alternator I reckon it would slide back and upwards to remove it completely.

hmm that sounds worthwhile,
 Tony changed his alternator few months ago but he didnt tell me how he dd it!!! al he said was it was a bastard to get it out!!!