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[Chopsdad]

Thanks TB.  Just one question before I start, well 2 actually......

1. You say I need to connect 4 wires, but the guide only has 3 - I assume the 4th is the green/pink wire in pin 4 that connects to the courtesy light? Why?

2. Is there any benefit in connecting pin 3 to disable the dimming for reverse?

1. I think this stops the mirror dimming when you turn the light on (I'm not going to bother)

2. Again I'm not going to bother with this connection as I never look in the interior mirror whilst reversing.

So for us it just needs 12v and earth  

That will work.

Trouble is, Mrs Chopsdad, or Chops herself, would be able to use that mirror at night to apply makeup

The reverse is useful - never connected it on my MV6, but it was on the Tractor. Next time I have any of it apart, I'd run the cable...

I have lights in the visors for my make up applications anyway but I'll have a look at the reverse connection before I click it all in place  

To be honest, the courtesy one is so easy, may as well do it

OMG How easy was that to do!

TB It may be worth adding to the guide that in a facelift all the coloured wires match up with their counterparts from the interior light.

Ie.  Brown from the mirror connector - brown on the interior light.
      Black joins with black switch wire (not permanent live - red)
      Grey/black - to grey/black switch wire for the courtesy lamp on.

There are 2 blacks coming from the mirror - choose the one connected to pin 2 per your guide.

And if you need to reverse when the mirror is dimmed - just pop on the courtesy light and hey presto it's back to normal.

[alexandjen]

Excellent, thanks for the update

What method did you use to connect the wiring to the light loom?

[Chopsdad]

Excellent, thanks for the update

What method did you use to connect the wiring to the light loom?

The wires are too thin for scotch locks and there's not enough room for them anyway, so I stripped back a section of wire and soldered the ends to them and wrapped in tape. You could cut the wires and use the crimp connectors from Halfords if you don't have access to a solder gun - but I'd solder them for a neat solid job.

Pull the fuse first (no 7, bottom row, furthest right) and you'll have no problems.

[alexandjen]

Excellent, thanks for the update

What method did you use to connect the wiring to the light loom?

The wires are too thin for scotch locks and there's not enough room for them anyway, so I stripped back a section of wire and soldered the ends to them and wrapped in tape. You could cut the wires and use the crimp connectors from Halfords if you don't have access to a solder gun - but I'd solder them for a neat solid job.

Pull the fuse first (no 7, bottom row, furthest right) and you'll have no problems.

Thanks for that, do you mean the straight crimp connectors?

[Chopsdad]

Excellent, thanks for the update

What method did you use to connect the wiring to the light loom?

The wires are too thin for scotch locks and there's not enough room for them anyway, so I stripped back a section of wire and soldered the ends to them and wrapped in tape. You could cut the wires and use the crimp connectors from Halfords if you don't have access to a solder gun - but I'd solder them for a neat solid job.

Pull the fuse first (no 7, bottom row, furthest right) and you'll have no problems.

Thanks for that, do you mean the straight crimp connectors?

Yeah, long thin things about 2cm long.  They come in different colours depending on the amp rating - you need 10a. Make sure you can get 2 wires in one side first before you cut the courtesy lamp ones.

When you take the lamp unit out if it is the same as mine it will start with red (perm live) on the left, then brown and the black you need is another 3 across.  If it's any different check it with a multimeter first or you may slice up the wrong wire.

[alexandjen]

Thanks again