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[Marks DTM Calib]

You will need:
 
A Good Tool kit which includes a selection of Torx sockets

• Rocker gaskets: 90511451, one set per bank (£25+ Vat retail)
• O-rings: 90411826, 8 per bank (13p+ VAT retail)
• Gasket, Inlet bridge to head: 90501652, 2 off - Optional
• Gasket, Inlet to Inlet bridge: 90501653, 3 off - Optional
• Gasket, Inlet to Plenum O rings: 9118135, 6 off - Optional
• Sealent, Black (not the Green stuff!): 90485251, 1 off

It is essential to use original Vx camcover gaskets, pattern parts dont last, fit badly and are often rock hard and squashed flat after 4 months running. Its your risk !!!

On all the ones I have changed so far (and I have doen a fair few!), I havn't needed to change the inlet gaskets....but, the numbers are there for completeness

A COLD engine, some fuel will escape during this procedure so care is required.
 
First, disconnect the battery negative and the inlet trunking from the plenum chamber.
 

 
2.5V6 and 3.0V6 Only - Remove the single torx bolt that holds the bracket from the drivers side exhaust manifold to the base of the EGR block and diconnect the EGR flexi pipe union.

Then remove the feed and return water pipes from the throttle body heater by squeezing the retaining clips with suitable pliers (mole grips work well, small amounts of water may escape)

2.5V6 and 3.0V6 Only - Now disconnect the throttle cable by carefuly removing the securing clip. Also, if fitted disconnect the cruise control cable. Unbolt the throttle cable mounting bracket and place to one side.

2.6V6 and 3.2V6 Only - Disconnect the cable connection to the electronic throttle assembly and the small vaccum connection to the fuel pressure regulator.


 
2.5V6 and 3.0V6 Only - Disconnect the pipe and connector attached to the idle valve

Remove the four plenum securing bolts (there may be plastic caps over the bolts). Also remove the two bolts which retain the cable tray.

If fitted, remove the bolt securing the two coolant pipes at the rear left of the plenum
 
Now remove the breather pipes from the rear of the plenum (4 off, two large and 2 small)
 
Carefully lift the plenum and ease forward so that you can reach in behind and disconnect the vaccum feed and electrical connector to the rear multiram.
 
Remove the plenum or place to one side.

It is recommended that the cable assembly that runs across the passenger side cam cover is removed from the cable tray and the cable tray is placed to one side (as shown). This makes access to the cam cover considerably easier.   


 
Insert some suitable rags to stop anything falling into the inlets!
 
 

 
 
Now de-pressurise the fuel system by removing the black plastic cap at the rear left of the injector rail, surrounding it in a dry rag and pressing the centre of the valve in (alternatively depressurise the fuel system before starting work by removing the fuel pump fuse.....or simply disconnect the fuel pipes being prepared for fuel loss).

Un-bolt the feed and return unions on the fuel rail (Caution some fuel will escape so surround it in a rag)
 
Disconnect the air pipe from the fuel pressure regulator. Unplug the injector loom and remove the 6 securing bolts which hold the injector bridge assembly to the inlet.
 
Remove the inlet bridge and injector assembly.
 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Transfer the rags to the inlet manifold.
 
You are now in a position to remove the cam covers

2.5V6 and 3.0V6 only - remove the plug leads (note the oil around these)

2.6V6 and 3.2V6 only - remove the coil packs, after extracting the securing bolts, you can screw two of plenum retaining bolts into the coil pack threads to provide a handle to aid removal.

Ease the main wiring loom to one side (its often useful to tie this out of the way).
 
Unclip the oil filler neck (lift tag that locks over cam cover bolt and rotate anti-clockwise) Remove the 8 cam cover retaining bolts and gently remove the cam cover, on the passenger side its a tight fit under the air con pipe, this can be eased out of the way slightly.


 
Clean the cam cover well and remove any old sealant, check the face of the cam cover is flat, if badly warped (normaly due to the bolts being overtightened) it will need renewing.

Remove the 8 O-rings around the bolt holes in the cam cover an replace with new items
 
Fit the new cam cover seals noting the locating lugs on the seals which locate into small cut outs at the rear of the covers.
 
Apply the sealant around the half moon cutouts at the rear of the heads and either side of the two front cam clamps, as a basic rule, you are applying sealant where the rubber seals turn through a tight 90 deg bend
 

 
As soon as they are fitted, reach your hand around the back of the cam cover and feel to check the half moon shape rubber section is still in place other wise you will get a VERY big oil leak!

Also check carefully to ensure that the knock and/or cam sensor wiring is not trapped under the cam cover before re-fitting the bolts and torquing them to the correct level of 8Nm (do NOT over tighten them). The torque valves are listed in the how to area (a very useful reference list)
 
Re-assembly is the reverse of removal remembering to replace the inlet bridge to inlet manifold gaskets and plenum to inlet bridge gaskets if purchased (again, these are pretty much always re-useable)
 
NOTE: It is very important that you also check and clean the full breather system to ensure no further leaks appear. Information on how to do this can be found in the how to section here:

http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90653.0

[TheBoy]

Where to put the black sealent
Ok, front cam cap.....



Rear half moon....



You dont realy need the smear around the surface of the half moon but, its a good spot to clean your finger....

Note, its not the right sealent....it should be black but, my black sealent went walkies at the cambelt party.....