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[Jabe]

Hey,

So, I've been browsing around for a new (old) car to use till the end of the year and beyond. For some strange reason, I keep being attracted to Omega's. (for the love of god, don't ask why.) And from limited internet research I've rounded down my options to a Manual 2.5 V6. (2000-2003)

From what the interweb is telling me, no manual was ever made for the 3.0 or the 3.2 V6's? (correct me if I'm wrong.) The 3.0 V6 auto is slower then the 2.5 manual, and the 3.2 auto is the same as the 2.5 manual but with higher fuel consumption which is my reason for choosing a manual 2.5 V6, over the others. I have spotted the 2.0 and the 2.2 litre 4 pots but to be honest, for such a heavy car, I think the V6 would be more suitable. (plus consumption is only a few miles to the gallon in difference.)

Now, I've spotted a black V-Reg (yr2000) 2.5 V6 with some nice fat 17" omega alloys which I just love the look of it as a whole. The car is at a VERY reasonable price and is from a trader. It has 150,000 miles on the clock with FSH.

Can someone give me a list of things to look out for/question the trader about regarding the car? What can I check over myself without poking around to much? What are the symptoms of problems to come? Someone mentioned checking the coolant for oil? Cambelt, testing the air-con, cold/hot, etc etc.

I'll be going to check out the car this weekend, so all the advice I can get is appreciated. Thanks!

[Ian_D]

You cant get the 3.2 with a manual gear box. Besides that, every other model is available with a manual gearbox.

If you want a manual, go with either a 2.5, 2.6 or 3.0

However, if the only reason for choosing a manual is the 0-60 (as on paper) then it wouldn't be on the top of my priority list! In my opinion, unless you’re planning on ragging the Omega, in typical day to day driving there will be little difference between auto/manual.

Check when/if the cambelt AND TENTIONERS have been changed (its 40k miles or 4 years, which ever occurs first)

[Jabe]

You cant get the 3.2 with a manual gear box. Besides that, every other model is available with a manual gearbox.

If you want a manual, go with either a 2.5, 2.6 or 3.0

However, if the only reason for choosing a manual is the 0-60 (as on paper) then it wouldn't be on the top of my priority list! In my opinion, unless you’re planning on ragging the Omega, in typical day to day driving there will be little difference between auto/manual.

Check when/if the cambelt AND TENTIONERS have been changed (its 40k miles or 4 years, which ever occurs first)

Ouch! Say's the last cambelt change was @ 80,000. (70,000 miles ago.)

Not really for the 0-60 times, I just see no point in getting an 3.0 auto if its pretty much the same in speed, with more consumption. But hey, that's just me. I never knew they made a 3.0 manual... From browsing autotrader on and off, I've never come across one... I have spotted a few 2.6's but they seem to be all in auto's. (what are the differences between the 2.5 and 2.6 anyway? Anything worth noting?)

So aside from the cambelt and tensioners, anything else to look out for that may be a tale tale to an unhealthy motor?

[tunnie]

You can get a 3.2 manual, but it will be in ex-police cars only.

Lots of 3.0 manuals around in retail spec 

[Jabe]

You can get a 3.2 manual, but it will be in ex-police cars only.

Lots of 3.0 manuals around in retail spec 

Regarding the 3.2 V6 Manuals... did they use different gearboxes/clutchs to the 2.5 V6's? (or even 3.0 V6's for that matter.)

[Ian_D]

You can get a 3.2 manual, but it will be in ex-police cars only.

Lots of 3.0 manuals around in retail spec 

Regarding the 3.2 V6 Manuals... did they use different gearboxes/clutchs to the 2.5 V6's? (or even 3.0 V6's for that matter.)

I assume the will be the same gearbox as the 3.0, which I again assume would be the same as the 2.5's. Clutch wise, I assume the same as the 2.5 and 3.0 ones. (unless the 2.5's have a smaller clutch?, I seem to think its only the 4 pots though.)

Lots of 'assumes'! But hope it helps! 

Engine wise, the 2.5/2.6 and 3.0/3.2 are almost the same in terms of performance. There’s just a few differences like no Secondary Air Injection (was used to help the CATs to reduce emissions), DBW (Drive By Wire - Acc pedal is electric rather than a physical cable which pulls the throttle open), Different ECU, No EGR (exhaust gas recirculation), has two coil packs that sit onto the plugs (oppose to one coil pack and 6 HT leads). Prob more that I've forgotten. 

The 2.5 + 3.0's are the older engines, and the 2.6 + 3.2's are the new engines. Not sure of the date they changed, would guess 2000 to 2001 ish.

It’s the usual checks regarding the engine... Check for water in oil / oil in water, check that there’s no nasty rattles, noises etc. Check the clutch doesn't slip, and likewise if you do go for an auto, check it changes gear nice and smoothly, and also that it doesn't slip more under load. Guess it all depends on how knowledgeable you are regarding engines/buying cars etc... It’s quite hard to explain!

Good luck. 

[Sehen]

The gearboxes on the 2,5 and the 3,0 V6 is different.
The 2,0 and the 2,5 uses the R25 gearbox, and the 3,0 uses the R28 gearbox. The diffrence betwen them is bigger bearings inside of the R28.
By MY2001, they changed the names on all the gearboxes, but dont remember exactly what code they have, maybe somone else does.
The R25 is again divided into two difrent types, one for the 2,0 and the 2,2, with the smaller diameter output shaft, but the 2,5  version has the same diameter as the R28 on the output shaft.
The clutc , i dont know, but they can be used in either config.
Thats wat i have found out so far, but I cant find my link to the site for explaining the new codes on the gearboxes

Hope this will help you gays

[2woody]

R25 and R28 differ only in that R28 has shot-peened gears. A very small difference. GM bearing part numbers are the same for each.

there are four basic "types" of Omega B

pre-facelift - 2.5 and 3.0 cable throttle

mini-facelift - 2.5 and 3.0 cable throttle ( different grille )

facelift - 2.5 and 3.0 cable throttle

facelift - 2.6 and 3.2 drive-by-wire

all of the 2.5 and 3.0 cars came with manual or auto, although the 3.0 Elite was standard auto/manual on request.

all of the 3.2 non-plod cars were auto.

Opinion is split between manual and auto - what is sure though is that the manual gearboxes tend to be very reliable, the autos less so. An auto will cost you about 5mpg on average.

Manual gearboxes are all Getrag 240s, basically the same as used in a multitude of BMWs. You'll not kill an R25, even in a 3.2 (I have had one in a track-day 3.0 for years)

look out for rust in rear of sills, rear arches and rear doors and accident damage. Ans front suspension wobbliness. Budget for changing the cam belt irrespective.

[Jabe]

Hi.

Thank you for all the replies, you have all been very helpful! I am so-so with cars, not exactly mechanic status, but I know how to fiddle with them, i.e, I service my own cars, but that's as far as it goes.

I am certain I'll go with the car in question, first thing would obviously be to change the cambelt & tensioners and probably give it a good service with some decent oil/filters etc. (and a tank of V-Power!)

A few more things to add... It's a CD spec. (heated leather seats, etc) it's from a Trader, it's in met black which looks pretty good, and has some nice fat style Omega alloys which I also like the look of.

And that's about it. Other then all the above, any other things to look out for?

[albitz]

Leather seats werent fitted in the CD model, so someone has probably added them (like I have in mine). Check for oil in plug wells, a common fault which means camcover gaskets need replaced. In my opinion  V reg 2.5 with 150,000 on the clock is worth a maximum of £500.

[Jabe]

Leather seats werent fitted in the CD model, so someone has probably added them (like I have in mine). Check for oil in plug wells, a common fault which means camcover gaskets need replaced. In my opinion  V reg 2.5 with 150,000 on the clock is worth a maximum of £500.

Thanks for the informative reply. The asking price is £700. Do you think I can haggle it down?

In your honest opinion, would you suggest a V6? How solid are the really? (especially at this kind of millage?) I'm not looking to break records, but I wouldn't mind knowing it will last another 50k without to much headache. (first thing on my list is to change the belt + tensioners.)

If you think otherwise, could you point me in the direction of a decent V6 omega?

[albitz]

If properly serviced a v6 will do another 150,000.
If you really want the car, then haggle until the dealer is in tears. The cambelt is long overdue and is an expensive job at a garage. Big cars with big engines are difficult to sell these days anyway,also find as many other faults with the car as possible and haggle even more.
To be honest,if it hasnt been serviced properly you may well end up spending quite a lot of money to get it up to scratch.
I would be tempted to have a look at whats for sale on here, as theres a better chance it will have been serviced regularily.

[Lazydocker]

IMHO, the big thing with the Omega (or any car really) is that it's usage needs to be kept similar. What I mean is that a well maintained, "High" mileage car will be fine when it's still being used but if you relegate it to weekends and occasional use then things will probably start going wrong. The same in reverse, low mileage cars that suddenly jump into regular, high mileage use will probably do the same.

That said, it's generally just little things that play up so not too bad

I've no real knowledge of the manual Omega as I have a dislike for the manual box, but no matter what anyone tells you the Omega is quite reliable. However, you might have to do some work to get that reliability if it has been abused My 3.0 Saloon had over 177k on the clock when I sold it and I would happily have jumped in it and driven anywhere in Europe at the drop of a hat with no concerns

They are a much underrated car and, with regular servicing, will bring you many years of comfortable driving

[albitz]

Its amazing how regular basic servicing (oil/filters etc.) can make a huge difference between a car which will run like clockwork and one which gives one problem after another.

[TheBoy]

The usual problems on the V6 Omega are:

From suspension wear, esp the lower arm bushes. (replace arm or rebush)
Rear doughnut bush wear (replace bush)
Rust
Cam cover gaskets (replace with GM)
Camber goes out as car ages, and few geometry places know how to do it properly
HBV (replace)


Garages tend to dislike the V6, and charge silly money for minor jobs. Given the mileage, I'd treat yourself to a 'Trade Club' card, and be prepared to do a little more car work than you perhaps previously have.  We have lots of guides for various tasks, and the advice available here makes it a cheap car to run if you are able to do most of the work yourself

My oldest Omega, a 1998 3.0l auto, is likely to go over 180k this week, and is mechanically strong as ever, and is often driven quite hard.  In the 8yrs I've owned it, its only left me stranded once (crank sensor, Dijon, France). What will kill it is rust.