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[framsdal]

Hi! I have a problem to electrical operate all electical windows in my Omega, the regulation of the electical mirrors are also not working at all. I have done some work to locate the the foult and I have some findings. For starters i have checked and excluded the switch/controller in the drivers door. I have tested this on a different Omega and it works. The switch/controller from the other car did not work on my car. This should mean that this item is not the problem?!
Further I find that fuse no 1 supply el. engine in the door with 12.3V (red 2.5 mm2 cable), this is meassured at the plug for el.window in the door, ground cable (brown 2.5 mm2). is also checked between mentioned + and ground in the plug and give same resultate 12.3V. So apperantly there is no problem here.
It starts to be interesting when i check the voltage (still at the plug for el. window engine in the door) for the signal up and down. Cable (up 0.5 mm2 green/grey, down 0.5mm2 blue/red) when operate the switch at the controller I find a voltage 9.88V, similar at both cables (up/down). I find that fuse no 13 10A is supplying the electrical window and mirror controller (window switch drivers door) with the current for signal for operating window and mirror. When extracting this fuse I find the voltage to be 10.3V between the sockets in the fuse box. I believe that this is also somewhat too low?! BUT when i meassure the voltage between the + socket in the fuse box and ground in the chassis I find 12.3V, quite normal! There is one cable in this plug not yet mentioned by me and that is an brown/black 0.5mm2, at this one i meassure 0.1V regardless what i do, maybe signal for remote close window with key? By the way remote close window with key seems not to work on my car, but this is an uninteresting problem at this stage unless it is linked with my current problem!

What dazzle me is that window sometimes (but seldom) work as normal a brief period, I feel this is linked to the operation of the door, stops working after moving the door. This should indicate thet there might be a foult in the harness, but the voltage is contstant regardless how much i move, push or pull the harness between the door and chassis. I imagine that there at least should be some changes in the voltage if the foult is lokalized here?

I have no idea for where to look for malfunction parts, anyone having an idea? I wonder if there might be any relay in this equation that does not give good enough contact? But my theory is weak because I can not find any relay at the electrical drawings.

Please any smart ideas out there? Please forgive my Norwegian English:)

Frank

[VXL V6]

Check the wiring connector on your drivers door. 

[twiglet]

Check the wiring connector on your drivers door. 

Yep, sounds like a bad connection. First place to look is the big multi-pin connector between the door hinges. It should have a red locking tab in it. Remove this and then turn plug anti-clockwise to undo. Check pins for signs of damage or corrosion from water ingress. 

[framsdal]

Check the wiring connector on your drivers door. 

Yep, sounds like a bad connection. First place to look is the big multi-pin connector between the door hinges. It should have a red locking tab in it. Remove this and then turn plug anti-clockwise to undo. Check pins for signs of damage or corrosion from water ingress. 

Yes! I have disconnected this plug numerous time, by the way it looks like it left the factory yesterday. There is absolutely no signs of damage or corrosion. But of course this is a potentional place to bee the source of my problem it need to be checked. Right now I am waiting for a plug from the scrapyard to arrive, then it should be easier to test the electrical engine on this window. In this I mean that I can supply signal with 12V... if this works i will back trace, next on program it will be to supply the window control switch with 12V. I guess (hope) this will give me some answer

frank

[fiend61]

as said could be bad connection in plug, or could be damaged loom in the door itself 

[framsdal]

Yes! My problem was this evening located to the connection plug in the door ! Then a new problem arise ... how to unfasten the plug in the door so it will be available to "visible inspection". Door panel and +++ is of course already  removed, but I do not find it obvious how to unfasten this plug... Any suggestions?

Frank

[framsdal]

I feel I maybe need to be clearer...
I need to remove (unfasten) the socket IN the door, what trix do I need to know to do this. Harness (cable) from chassis is already very easy unplugged

[twiglet]

you need to release some of the clips holding the loom to the door to give yourself some slack.  The socket will come out of the door going towards the front of the car.  It has 3 clips around its perimeter which hold it in place, these all need to be pressed towards the centre of the socket so that it can be released.  It's a bit of a fiddly job though. 

[framsdal]

you need to release some of the clips holding the loom to the door to give yourself some slack.  The socket will come out of the door going towards the front of the car.  It has 3 clips around its perimeter which hold it in place, these all need to be pressed towards the centre of the socket so that it can be released.  It's a bit of a fiddly job though. 

This topic starts to be a littel old but so does also my electrical problem:)
Anyway, I remove all harness from the door for to better be able to control the plug. I am 100% sure that there is no problem in the plug (female or male part) or in the harness between door or chassis. I meassure 10.2 volts in the wire. I now believe that i have to check the relay witch is supplying the window controler (switch in the door). I am pretty sure that the same relay turning off accessory power (i.e. door light) also supply electric for window. As mentioned earlier window engine has 12 V regadless time or ignition staus. Differens is after 5 minutes 30 sec after turning off ignition and removing the key I hear a quite significan "pling" in an relay behind the fuse boks. After this power is turned off there is no longer power for the window controller either:) When i have time I will check these 3 relays, at the moment I believe it is the green relay in charge here... so I will keep you posted. Sadly the Haynes book dont mention these relays in their wire diagrams. If any posess diagram containg these relays I would be happy if you would share it with me.

Thanks