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[JamesV6CDX]

For the Landie:

New spark plugs x 8
New set of HT Leads
New Distributor cap
New Rotor Arm
New Air Filter
New Oil Filter
New Fuel Filter

A grand total of £85, from Halfrauds. Hopefullly that should see it idling a bit better.

Out of interest, anyone know

A) where the fuel filter is and
B) What the cylinder compressions should be?
C) If there is a crankcase breather system to clean or anything else of a simelar nature to ensure good running?

[Darth Loo-knee]

For the Landie:

New spark plugs x 8
New set of HT Leads
New Distributor cap
New Rotor Arm
New Air Filter
New Oil Filter
New Fuel Filter

A grand total of £85, from Halfrauds. Hopefullly that should see it idling a bit better.

Out of interest, anyone know

A) where the fuel filter is and
B) What the cylinder compressions should be?
C) If there is a crankcase breather system to clean or anything else of a simelar nature to ensure good running?

Fuel filter is just in front of the rear drivers side wheel.
Flame Trap Breather looks like a small coke can on the drivers side rocker cover. If you follow the hose on top of this breather it goes to a "T" junction they get carboned up so may need replacing only a few quid
Plus I thought your prices were a bit high that you have paid James try here

http://www.paddockspares.com/

[Marks DTM Calib]

Dont forget the smell vent on the end of the roceker cover, they also block.....and when it blocks up they invert the valley gasket and blow the crank seals.

I hope it does cure your miss fire, check the dizzy shaft for play when you change rotor arm.

When it doesn;t sort the idle out, pop back for a few more common pointers.

Also, given the high mileage, has it ever been re-built?

[JamesV6CDX]

Dont forget the smell vent on the end of the roceker cover, they also block.....and when it blocks up they invert the valley gasket and blow the crank seals.

I hope it does cure your miss fire, check the dizzy shaft for play when you change rotor arm.

When it doesn;t sort the idle out, pop back for a few more common pointers.

Also, given the high mileage, has it ever been re-built?

As far as I know mark, no...

I compression tested her earlier, but didn't trust the tester all that much becuase it was once trod on - but all pots were between 10 and 12 bar.. sound OK?

[Marks DTM Calib]

Dont forget the smell vent on the end of the roceker cover, they also block.....and when it blocks up they invert the valley gasket and blow the crank seals.

I hope it does cure your miss fire, check the dizzy shaft for play when you change rotor arm.

When it doesn;t sort the idle out, pop back for a few more common pointers.

Also, given the high mileage, has it ever been re-built?

As far as I know mark, no...

I compression tested her earlier, but didn't trust the tester all that much becuase it was once trod on - but all pots were between 10 and 12 bar.. sound OK?

There  are a number of wear related failures on the V8

1) Heagaskets leak into the valley (due in part to the extra row of boltson the head)
2) Cam and follower wear, this is likely to be very bad at such a mileage. I have seen 20K TVR engines where both of these are shot.
3) Chain stretch, the cam chain has no tensioner adn the stock pats are not good quality and stretch.

None of the above will show on a compression test.

Is there much goo in the rocker covers?

[Bandit127]

Google says 10.5:1 on most sites so between 10 and 12 is good. To be fair, unless someons has put sand in the oil a problem with compression would most likely show on 1 or 2 cylinders. Even if your gauge was a long way out, you wouls still see that.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Google says 10.5:1 on most sites so between 10 and 12 is good. To be fair, unless someons has put sand in the oil a problem with compression would most likely show on 1 or 2 cylinders. Even if your gauge was a long way out, you wouls still see that.

Nothing like.

The V8's in the Range Rovers were only 9.35:1 compression ratio at best with some being as low as 8.2:1, only the SD1 Vitesee ever got 9.75:1 and that was the highest (other then modified units).

The compression ratio is stamped onto the block james next to the engine number.

[Bandit127]

Google says 10.5:1 on most sites so between 10 and 12 is good. To be fair, unless someons has put sand in the oil a problem with compression would most likely show on 1 or 2 cylinders. Even if your gauge was a long way out, you wouls still see that.

Nothing like.

The V8's in the Range Rovers were only 9.35:1 compression ratio at best with some being as low as 8.2:1, only the SD1 Vitesee ever got 9.75:1 adn that was the higest (other then modified units).

The compression ratio is stamped onto the block james next to the engine number.

Sorry James/Mark. 9.35... More info here:
http://www.v8tuner.com/faqs.php?id=1

[Marks DTM Calib]

Yes, the guys at Abbey Sportscars are very good and helpful....