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Omega General Help / Re: engine missfire
« on: 18 May 2009, 18:00:38 »
Check out my thread. My symptoms were identical:
Misfiring/jerky 2.0 Automatic
Misfiring/jerky 2.0 Automatic
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Omega General Help / Re: Misfire and fault codes
« on: 15 May 2009, 12:21:46 »
My Bosch leads cost £20.78 plus £4.49 postage from Powersparks on ebay. The leads for your car would cost £39.95 plus £4.49 postage. My leads were slightly longer that the originals but the extra allowed more slack at the Dis pack. Your leads can be seen on this link:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BOSCH-Silicone-Spark-Leads-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-2-5-3-0V6_W0QQitemZ180344865829QQihZ008QQcategoryZ9886QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BOSCH-Silicone-Spark-Leads-VAUXHALL-OMEGA-2-5-3-0V6_W0QQitemZ180344865829QQihZ008QQcategoryZ9886QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262
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Omega General Help / Re: Misfire and fault codes
« on: 14 May 2009, 13:01:31 »
Today I fitted new plug leads and my similar problem has completely cleared. Is it possible one of your leads broke while you did the rebuild? At least check them for resistance/continuity with multimeter to eliminate as possibility.
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Omega General Help / Re: Misfire and fault codes
« on: 10 May 2009, 10:00:29 »
When I checked my leads with the multimeter, one lead has zero resistance, but engine misfires only under some conditions. Therefore, the lead must be internally sparking over to deliver a weaker spark at the plug. Fitting new Bosch leads next week and if problem is solved I'll post here again. Maybe your problem is similar.
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Omega General Help / Re: Misfiring/jerky 2.0 Automatic
« on: 14 May 2009, 16:31:39 »
I have now dissected the failed ignition lead. The break was where the lead connected to the sparking plug boot. What seems unbelievable is that the last inch of graphite conductor had reduced to dust, and then only enough to coat the inside of the surrounding one inch length of flexible insulator. Yet such a lead created a spark in the cylinder most of the time. Incredible!!
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Omega General Help / Re: Misfiring/jerky 2.0 Automatic
« on: 14 May 2009, 12:33:20 »
Just fitted new Bosch ignition leads (£25) and done a test drive. Problem solved! It was the broken lead. Now, the car runs at 60 mph at 2000 RPM compared with 50 mph at 2000 RPM previously, and without any jerkiness/misfires.
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Omega General Help / Re: Misfiring/jerky 2.0 Automatic
« on: 09 May 2009, 16:28:20 »
Just done a multimeter test on the leads. One of them is open-circuit, giving no reading. Must be sparking across internally!! Could that cause the problem at selective RPM? My garage man claimed to have measured two leads having higher resistance when hot. How come he missed the open circuit one? I don't think he even checked them!!
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Omega General Help / Re: Misfiring/jerky 2.0 Automatic
« on: 09 May 2009, 10:09:45 »
Thanks again to tmx and ceedee.
Paperclip test says it will not work if the engine is running on the 2.0l. It also says it will go straight into fault codes, without signalling 12 on later Omegas, but would that include a 1999 model, I wonder?
At the GM main dealer yesterday they swopped the MAF with absolutely no improvement. Now they are backtracking and think it might be the DIS pack after dismissing it at the start. They also feel, like deecee suggests, that it might be the ignition leads, saying two of them show a high resistance at raised temperature.
With a quotation of £170 to replace both, I plan to walk away and do it myself, since the leads cost £25 delivered and the DIS pack £35 delivered. I'll do the leads first, since 10 years on the initial set signals a change anyway, and if the fault continues I will replace the DIS pack, which looks simple on the 2.0l.
Paperclip test says it will not work if the engine is running on the 2.0l. It also says it will go straight into fault codes, without signalling 12 on later Omegas, but would that include a 1999 model, I wonder?
At the GM main dealer yesterday they swopped the MAF with absolutely no improvement. Now they are backtracking and think it might be the DIS pack after dismissing it at the start. They also feel, like deecee suggests, that it might be the ignition leads, saying two of them show a high resistance at raised temperature.
With a quotation of £170 to replace both, I plan to walk away and do it myself, since the leads cost £25 delivered and the DIS pack £35 delivered. I'll do the leads first, since 10 years on the initial set signals a change anyway, and if the fault continues I will replace the DIS pack, which looks simple on the 2.0l.
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Omega General Help / Re: Misfiring/jerky 2.0 Automatic
« on: 08 May 2009, 09:50:39 »
Thanks again tmx. Just done the paperclip test. Mine is a 1999 2.0l and the test gave no flashes at all, not even code 12. Presume 12 is omitted on this model and no flashes therefore indicates no codes recorded?
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Omega General Help / Re: Misfiring/jerky 2.0 Automatic
« on: 07 May 2009, 21:47:59 »
Thanks Welung666 and tdx. Garage said no faults. Do you think I might find faults nevertheless. I mean, does it happen?
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Omega General Help / Re: Misfiring/jerky 2.0 Automatic
« on: 07 May 2009, 20:02:17 »
Thanks Sonikhead. The garage mechanic claimed the DIS pack is OK. I have no idea what check he would carry out to say that. Maybe he didn't give it enough attention and thought he would get away with just changing the plugs! We'll see what develops.
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Omega General Help / Re: Misfiring/jerky 2.0 Automatic
« on: 07 May 2009, 19:55:09 »
Thanks TMX for your offer, but I am in Daventry. Same answer on Rusty Sills thread.
If I get no answers beforehand I'll let you know how I get on at the garage tomorrow.
If I get no answers beforehand I'll let you know how I get on at the garage tomorrow.
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Omega General Help / Misfiring/jerky 2.0 Automatic
« on: 07 May 2009, 16:02:37 »
Hi everyone, I'm new on the forum and hope somebody can help with my current problem. I drive an Omega 2.0 Auto 1999 on which a new fault has developed in the last 4 months.
When accelerating with a warm engine through the automatic gear changes, a last change up into top gear occurs at about 3000 rpm, when the revs then settle around 2000 with a road speed of 50 mph. The engine then misfires and becomes jerky, but further acceleration to higher rpm clears away the jerkiness again. Any drop in speed and revs to about 2000/2500 brings back the jerkiness/misfires, and further reduction below 2000 removes it again.
A test drive from cold was OK with no misfiring, but after a short while and a warmer engine it starts again . I can also get it to happen if I manually drop the automatic into third and test it around 2000/2500 rpm.
Vauxhall garage reports no codes, DIS is OK, and changed the plugs, and the well around the plugs is bone dry. They suggest it might be the MAF meter and will do a test swop tomorrow to find if it clears.
If not, they haven't come up so far with any alternatives. Does anyone recognise these symptoms? I would be grateful for any help as I need to clear this problem before driving off for any long trips.
When accelerating with a warm engine through the automatic gear changes, a last change up into top gear occurs at about 3000 rpm, when the revs then settle around 2000 with a road speed of 50 mph. The engine then misfires and becomes jerky, but further acceleration to higher rpm clears away the jerkiness again. Any drop in speed and revs to about 2000/2500 brings back the jerkiness/misfires, and further reduction below 2000 removes it again.
A test drive from cold was OK with no misfiring, but after a short while and a warmer engine it starts again . I can also get it to happen if I manually drop the automatic into third and test it around 2000/2500 rpm.
Vauxhall garage reports no codes, DIS is OK, and changed the plugs, and the well around the plugs is bone dry. They suggest it might be the MAF meter and will do a test swop tomorrow to find if it clears.
If not, they haven't come up so far with any alternatives. Does anyone recognise these symptoms? I would be grateful for any help as I need to clear this problem before driving off for any long trips.
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Omega General Help / Re: Spraying Advice Please.
« on: 13 May 2009, 11:32:15 »
I know this is after the event since all of the preparation work has been completed, but I am half way through doing the same work on my wheel arches. Beforehand, I searched for advice on the internet and found leads to an American product available in the UK called POR-15. They have compared themselves to all other products which claim to convert rust to something else and say this is a waste of time, since it is the access of moisture after the repair that allows the rust to appear again. They claim to stop this access for at least 10 years by applying a polyurethane based coating which not only sticks directly to rust but seals it in with no porosity or cracking.
It was developed for painting rusted car chassis for long-term protection from future rust, but it works equally well on bodywork.
I have now used this on my car. Previous use of Hammerite followed by a bodyseal just allowed the rust to return before 12 months .
It was developed for painting rusted car chassis for long-term protection from future rust, but it works equally well on bodywork.
I have now used this on my car. Previous use of Hammerite followed by a bodyseal just allowed the rust to return before 12 months .
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Omega General Help / Re: Rusty door sills
« on: 08 May 2009, 08:27:10 »
Maybe Holtender the reason for your success with lead loading the repair is that it achieves the same objective as POR-15, namely sticking like hell to the area, not peeling at the edges, and free of porosity. Also, lead loading and POR-15 wouldn't develop surface cracks.
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