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[Jimbob]

Great! I'm happy to provide any info you need.

EGR blanked off: Yes, at the plenum side of the valve (as there's nothing to fit the other side of the valve to).

Coincidence: I bought a vacuum gauge yesterday just to test that

I am 100% sure that the leads are fitted correctly.

Will connect the gauge later today and see what results I get, but what is more interesting; true manifold vacuum or buffered vacuum (as to the multi-ram solenoids)?

I have also checked fuel pressure with the stock Y26SE FPR and fuel rail. Close to 4 bar with "correct" hose connected. No change at all during different revs. Sealed the hose and connected true manifold vacuum: FPR now regulates from 2.5 to 3.5 bar (normal). No vaccum at all from the hose pre-IACV :s
Replaced the fuel rail, injectors and FPR with the one from my X25XE. Resulted in a slightly better response, but might only be some poor injectors on the Y26SE rail.
Fuel pump: new
Fuel filter: new

I will put up a file or two with live logs, just got to find a way to remove the fuse box panel so I can drive while having it plugged in..

Thanks for the great help so far

pull....its on ball clips, just pulls out once its open 

[Marks DTM Calib]

Dont worry about the FPR.

As said, it needs to be pre throttle and you will only see it alter fuel pressure when you have serious load on the engine as the item that effectively gives the restriction to creat a low vaccum is the air filter.you cant do this without a dyno when stationary).

So, you have a 2.6 running on 2.5/3.0 engine management then?

[Omegafantasy]

So, you have a 2.6 running on 2.5/3.0 engine management then?

Yes, that's what I have. All electronics moved over, modified downpipes to fit the 2.6 manifolds, blanked off EGR, X25XE intake, MAF, IAT and everything else. The only thing left which is 2.6 is the bare engine really. Even the flywheel is X25XE (as I didn't get the engine with that on).

One thing I've noticed though. It sounds like a vacuum leak when cold, although it's not a leak. It's the sound of air through the PCV hoses through the sharp angles it takes before entering the plenum. I never heard that on the X25XE as it was completely blocked. Is this normal, and could it affect the response? I could do a dirty trick for a minute just to test. Clamp the PCV hoses and take a quick drive without the dipstick in to avoid pressure build up..

I have also tried to search for leaks using carb cleaner, but everything seems to be in perfect condition.

[Omegafantasy]

So.. Tried hooking up the vacuum gauge tonight to see what's going on.

Hooked it up to the plenum first. It shows a nice strong vacuum at idle and when driving with throttles more or less closed. No vacuum at WOT of course. Everything looks normal.

Second test was on the vacuum canister to see if I actually had any vacuum at WOT for the multi rams, and I certainly have - all the way. When the different solenoids open I can see a short dip in the vacuum and that tells me the flaps are operated. They operate when they should, but it gave me an indicator for something else:
When the rear multi-ram flap opens, I get the growling, shaking, struggling engine sound. If I have 95% open throttle it won't open and the sound is normal. At 100% open, the vacuum dips when the rear flap opens and it starts to growl. What on earth could be causing that? This only happens in the 1800-4000 range (approx.)

Could this mean that the Y26SE don't like the short plenum at all? If that's the case, what's the difference?

I am pretty sure that the system is sealed properly. Changed all o-rings when I swapped. Plenum, butterflies and breathers was cleaned properly too, but I see quite a bit of oil in the plenum now (but strangely not sucked in from the butterflies, they are still perfectly clean).

[Omegafantasy]

I have now made a few logs from "My Naff Code Reader". Had a quick look at them, but can't pinpoint anything seriously wrong, other than a few things I noticed:

- TPS will not show more than 83% (4.4V) at WOT.
- Battery voltage drops about one volt depending on either throttle or rpm, not sure which yet. Seems linear.
- O2-Loop 1 BLM Idle sits at 140 while O2-Loop 2 is 88. Not sure why there's a huge difference. Partial load values are more or less equal.
- O2 sensors absolute values can surge violently either direction, but probably normal?


Here's the logs in both CSV and XLS-formats. Divided into three sections:

Warmup (log from pre-start to closed loop and a bit more)
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_warmup.csv
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_warmup.xls

Normal drive. Nothing special, just cruising to gain a stable temperature.
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_drive.csv
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_drive.xls

WOT segments, redline and generally stressing the engine 
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_wide-open.csv
http://omcoslo.com/bil/livedata_wide-open.xls

If anyone care to analyze or have a look at this I'd be more than happy I will try to find things myself, but I really lack reference data.

By the way: After the WOT drive and parked home, the exhaust was wicked hot. Couldn't hold my hand two feet behind the tailpipe. Also hot enough to melt plastic (tried on my bumper  ).

[patricia santos]

I think there are tubes that remove on the connection process you have made. That is the reason why it is not working now. Maybe you can ask the help of the plumber near your place.

[Omegafantasy]

I don't know if anyone had a chance to look at the live data, but I have some "news" about this.

I had an opportunity to test (on a closed track of course) to see how it performed with a bit more load. I was able to reach about 90 mph before the engine "met the wall". Downshift to 4th didn't improve a lot, but perhaps a couple of miles. 3rd even a bit more, but I'm almost redlining there so no point really.

When these tests were done, the smell from the exhaust was wicked, rancid, awful. Not like rotten eggs, but more like burnt clothes and old rags 

Also: Every couple of weeks I check my oil level when filling gas. Always been spot on at max, but some days ago I noticed my dipstick was DRY One litre got it back to max though so no harm done yet, but I wonder how on earth I could suddenly burn all that oil? There's no leaks so it has to be combusted. Will watch it closely in the next days..

I'm really starting to hate my miggy Even though I love it!
Stuff I have to fix:
- Engine
- Likely the DMF (can't find slack anywhere else)
- Exhaust
- wishbones (again! these lasted two months)
- droplinks
- one rear wheel bearing + dust cover to hold the e-brake pads
- both rear donuts
- get some trims for the outer panels, or rip them all off like I've done on one door :s
- full geometry setup

I'm so close to buy a BMW or MB now They're a lot cheaper than any 2000+ V6 miggy in Norway.

[Omegafantasy]

Right... Time to give up! 
The cats was my last option about this poor performance. Ripped them out on saturday, but made no difference at all! Only good thing about it though, I can smell the exhaust and determine mixture by my nose :p It smells rich and with a slight oliy contour. This confirms combustion of oil.. Piston rings or valve seals then? Gotta do a compression test