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[aaronjb]

Depends if you ever go down Telford Drive in Slough (or anywhere with 'speed cushions' but in by the same people) - they were all but impossible to navigate in the MR2 with it lowered 30mm :-/ it was a case of stop, crawl over hump, drive, stop, crawl over hump, drive.

Really annoyed the 4x4 owners who could go over them at 40mph (did I mention it was a 20 limit outside a school, put there because of the 4x4 owners dropping their kids off? No, that didn't annoy me at all, as you can tell).

Tellford drive? I 'll look into that one with a view to avoiding, my problem will be peters field avenue in slough  . Big sb is outside a school though to be fair.

I think I've been down that way once - looked at a house off Wexham Road (decided the place looked like a dive though ).. Telford Drive is a ways a way, by the Asda (where I used to live .. I didn't move away to get away from the speed humps, honest! )

[TheBoy]

chrisgixer - nah, give yourself ride height.

Now I can think of a good home for those springs

[feeutfo]

chrisgixer - nah, give yourself ride height.

Now I can think of a good home for those springs

Yeah, been waiting for that one.   

[2woody]

I'd say you'd need to go "off-piste" with the suspension settings if you were to lower beyond the "standard" MV6 spec.

it is highly likely that the roll-centre changes resulting from the lowering will make the handling worse rather than better.

the suspension geometry relies on how the wheels move in relation to the body when in roll. If,for instance, the static position of the lower wishbone is altered at rest (through lowering), the amount that the camber changes with roll will be different that Opel intended, probably incompatible with the roll angle, thereby reducing grip.

What you say is all very true, however i had full suspension geometry adjusted to suit the 40mm drop and cant say i have noticied any problems in grip, only improvement, even in the wet it is far better on the roundabouts
 

There will be a proper set up at wheels in motion as usual when ever I play with set up components...

....some thinking on all this set up business...without fully understanding roll centres it has to be said....roll centre, as I vaguely understand it, the  static(?)point the chassis rolls around when cornering, same motion controlled by anti roll bars? So draw a line starting at the roll centre, (i imagine this point to be somewhere along the center line of the crank perhaps? ) outboard towards the wheel and finishing at, I guess, the steering knuckle on the wishbone or just above? If lateral forces are not to affect suspension squatting, then this drawn line needs to have the suspension joints almost exactly along that line taking into account the weight of the car pressing down on it...?

Otherwise, Wang round a corner, sideways motion alone would quat the suspension even without body roll doing the same as well? Or am I way off?

So lowering excessively would move the suspension joints (the wishbone bush joints) off this drawn line.....er.... And basically cocking it all up. But given the various engine weights and ride heights on various models, there must be some leeway?

not bad.....

different springs are usually fitted to different models to correct the ride height for different configurations.

In production, this was probably about 10 different springs for the various Omega B variants, although in the aftermarket (even through GM dealers) there's only two I think.

the angle of the lower wishbone to the ground is the most critical thing.

[feeutfo]

I'd say you'd need to go "off-piste" with the suspension settings if you were to lower beyond the "standard" MV6 spec.

it is highly likely that the roll-centre changes resulting from the lowering will make the handling worse rather than better.

the suspension geometry relies on how the wheels move in relation to the body when in roll. If,for instance, the static position of the lower wishbone is altered at rest (through lowering), the amount that the camber changes with roll will be different that Opel intended, probably incompatible with the roll angle, thereby reducing grip.

What you say is all very true, however i had full suspension geometry adjusted to suit the 40mm drop and cant say i have noticied any problems in grip, only improvement, even in the wet it is far better on the roundabouts
 

There will be a proper set up at wheels in motion as usual when ever I play with set up components...

....some thinking on all this set up business...without fully understanding roll centres it has to be said....roll centre, as I vaguely understand it, the  static(?)point the chassis rolls around when cornering, same motion controlled by anti roll bars? So draw a line starting at the roll centre, (i imagine this point to be somewhere along the center line of the crank perhaps? ) outboard towards the wheel and finishing at, I guess, the steering knuckle on the wishbone or just above? If lateral forces are not to affect suspension squatting, then this drawn line needs to have the suspension joints almost exactly along that line taking into account the weight of the car pressing down on it...?

Otherwise, Wang round a corner, sideways motion alone would quat the suspension even without body roll doing the same as well? Or am I way off?

So lowering excessively would move the suspension joints (the wishbone bush joints) off this drawn line.....er.... And basically cocking it all up. But given the various engine weights and ride heights on various models, there must be some leeway?

not bad.....

different springs are usually fitted to different models to correct the ride height for different configurations.

In production, this was probably about 10 different springs for the various Omega B variants, although in the aftermarket (even through GM dealers) there's only two I think.

the angle of the lower wishbone to the ground is the most critical thing.

Hmmm, that aside though, the quality of ride and lack of roll purely down to quality of damping and springs would, on the face of it, be an improvement on that front. Something that would be felt at all times, where as the roll centre issue would only be felt in cornering, possibly only during extreme cornering?....
....wonder if it's possible to add a 15 mill spacer to the bottom of the spring in the suspension cup....? Need a bloody big washer. 

[Jimbob]

I'd say you'd need to go "off-piste" with the suspension settings if you were to lower beyond the "standard" MV6 spec.

it is highly likely that the roll-centre changes resulting from the lowering will make the handling worse rather than better.

the suspension geometry relies on how the wheels move in relation to the body when in roll. If,for instance, the static position of the lower wishbone is altered at rest (through lowering), the amount that the camber changes with roll will be different that Opel intended, probably incompatible with the roll angle, thereby reducing grip.

What you say is all very true, however i had full suspension geometry adjusted to suit the 40mm drop and cant say i have noticied any problems in grip, only improvement, even in the wet it is far better on the roundabouts
 

There will be a proper set up at wheels in motion as usual when ever I play with set up components...

....some thinking on all this set up business...without fully understanding roll centres it has to be said....roll centre, as I vaguely understand it, the  static(?)point the chassis rolls around when cornering, same motion controlled by anti roll bars? So draw a line starting at the roll centre, (i imagine this point to be somewhere along the center line of the crank perhaps? ) outboard towards the wheel and finishing at, I guess, the steering knuckle on the wishbone or just above? If lateral forces are not to affect suspension squatting, then this drawn line needs to have the suspension joints almost exactly along that line taking into account the weight of the car pressing down on it...?

Otherwise, Wang round a corner, sideways motion alone would quat the suspension even without body roll doing the same as well? Or am I way off?

So lowering excessively would move the suspension joints (the wishbone bush joints) off this drawn line.....er.... And basically cocking it all up. But given the various engine weights and ride heights on various models, there must be some leeway?

not bad.....

different springs are usually fitted to different models to correct the ride height for different configurations.

In production, this was probably about 10 different springs for the various Omega B variants, although in the aftermarket (even through GM dealers) there's only two I think.

the angle of the lower wishbone to the ground is the most critical thing.

just checked tradeclub - 12 different rear springs available currently

be nice to see em all in a lineup for the differences

[feeutfo]

I'd say you'd need to go "off-piste" with the suspension settings if you were to lower beyond the "standard" MV6 spec.

it is highly likely that the roll-centre changes resulting from the lowering will make the handling worse rather than better.

the suspension geometry relies on how the wheels move in relation to the body when in roll. If,for instance, the static position of the lower wishbone is altered at rest (through lowering), the amount that the camber changes with roll will be different that Opel intended, probably incompatible with the roll angle, thereby reducing grip.

What you say is all very true, however i had full suspension geometry adjusted to suit the 40mm drop and cant say i have noticied any problems in grip, only improvement, even in the wet it is far better on the roundabouts
 

There will be a proper set up at wheels in motion as usual when ever I play with set up components...

....some thinking on all this set up business...without fully understanding roll centres it has to be said....roll centre, as I vaguely understand it, the  static(?)point the chassis rolls around when cornering, same motion controlled by anti roll bars? So draw a line starting at the roll centre, (i imagine this point to be somewhere along the center line of the crank perhaps? ) outboard towards the wheel and finishing at, I guess, the steering knuckle on the wishbone or just above? If lateral forces are not to affect suspension squatting, then this drawn line needs to have the suspension joints almost exactly along that line taking into account the weight of the car pressing down on it...?

Otherwise, Wang round a corner, sideways motion alone would quat the suspension even without body roll doing the same as well? Or am I way off?

So lowering excessively would move the suspension joints (the wishbone bush joints) off this drawn line.....er.... And basically cocking it all up. But given the various engine weights and ride heights on various models, there must be some leeway?

not bad.....

different springs are usually fitted to different models to correct the ride height for different configurations.

In production, this was probably about 10 different springs for the various Omega B variants, although in the aftermarket (even through GM dealers) there's only two I think.

the angle of the lower wishbone to the ground is the most critical thing.

just checked tradeclub - 12 different rear springs available currently

be nice to see em all in a lineup for the differences

Got 4 sets in my garage, all very different...