.. and I thought I was confused before!
Right, let's get the terminology consistent. What are we referring to with inner and outer? Here's my take on it:
A bearing consists of 2 races with a roller assembly sandwiched between them. In the hub you effectively have 2 bearings, hence you've ended up with 2 roller assemblies (the ball bearings).
Each of these bearings has an inner race and an outer race. The outer races have a fairly loose fit over the stub axle protruding from the suspension upright/knuckle, over which they slide. One buts against the upright on the inside, the other against the hub nut which is then tightened, drawing the two together. They are therefore firmly fixed to the car and don't move. These are the two races you have on the bench in the photo.
The inner races are a press fit into the hub, one is inserted from the inside, one from the outside. Once fully home they butt up against either side of a ridge in the centre of the bore through the hub so they can' pull right through and liberate the wheel. These inner races are still present in the hub in your photo.
The roller assemblies, which, again, you have in your photo, sit between the inner and outer races. Once the hub nut is tight, the two outer races butt together, and the two inner races butt against the ridge inside the hub. This establishes the correct clearance for free running of the bearing without it getting tight or having significant play.
The forces from the wheel are transferred from the inner races to the outer races through the roller assemblies and, with the bearing clearance correct, this is distributed around the circumference of both sets of races meaning it's very strong.
To replace the whole bearing in a hub, you need to press out the inner races, as these are wear items along with the outer races and roller assemblies. This might currently be a challenge as there might not be much of a lip between the race and the ridge inside the hub, hence the recommendation to weld something onto the race which you can then use to drift it out. The heat from the weld will also loosen the fit of the race in the hub.
For the bearing to run with the correct clearance, you are relying on the clearance between the two outer races and the clearance between the two inner races being very consistent. Note that the hub is also a variable here, as the thickness of the lip inside the hub contributes to the running clearance.
Now, the conti bearings exhibited play from day one, so something was not correct there. The assembly was too loose. Shaving a bit of material off the centre of the outer races where they butt together would tighten the bearing up a little, and I suspect this is what Mark did on Entwood's car.
Buying the hub with the bearing might help in this respect, because all the variables are in the control of the bearing supplier - hub, races and rollers, so they can engineer them for the correct clearance. Clearly didn't help with conti, though.
But.. back to the point. If you bought just a bearing, intending to fit it to your existing hub, you would be supplied with 4 races and 2 roller assemblies.
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Topic: Just ordered fag wheel barings (Read 17079 times)